This is my project report for retrofitting my 2001 LT with one of them new-fangled power center stands.
First, let me note that this project was neither difficult nor expensive and it ranks high on the "glad I did it" list. HID and GPS are two others. Now for the report.
I got the stand used. Total cost beyond that: $26.
The first trick is to figure out how you're going to keep the bike balanced upright without using the center stand or the side stand, as both of those stands come off in one piece. Since I work alone and without the benefit of a bike lift, or even a garage for that matter, I Jerry rigged a tie down pallet using three scraps of 2x4 and some webbing front & rear. Thank goodness for powered-reverse.
Next, you unbolt the old stand by removing four allen bolts on the main stand and two hex bolts on the front lip of the stand. You'll find them once you're under there - it's a little hard to describe. Here's a pic of what some of the main bolts look like.
Out with the old and in with the new. Note the identical four-bolt pattern in the center of each stand.
On reassembly, it's a little tricky getting the first bolt on the new stand started because you have to hold the thing in place with one hand. But once one bolt is started, the remaining three are pretty easy.
Please note that you have to remove two bolts on the new stand to separate the thing into two parts. You do this to access two of the main bolts, and once they're in, you can put the thing back together. In the picture below, I just finished the four main bolts, but the front 1/2 of the stand is still hanging.
Before putting that front 1/2 of the stand back on, however, it's a good idea to deal with the engine kill switch on the new side stand. If you wait until you've completely reassembled the center stand, there'll be little room to get your soldering iron in to access the three wires (I couldn't get the connector off, so I just spliced them together). See pic - the side stand pivot is right below the red wire there.
Incidentally, that 1" tube thingy just to the right of the red wire in the above pic is the exhaust - so use heat-resistant weatherproofing when covering the splice.
With the stand swapped out, you can run the electrical.
There are two wires leaving the actuator: red and black. I ran black directly to the neg battery terminal. Red ran to the switch you see in the pic below, then to a 30amp fuse, then to the positive terminal.
I thought the handle location would be ideal, as the handle is no longer in use. The handle does, however, protect the switch from accidental activation. The cutesy red cover purports to do the same and only cost me $5 at RatShack.
That's the extent of my safety precautions. I did not run it through another activation switch or through a neutral switch, as I considered previously. It runs right off the battery, whether the ignition is on or not. Having used it a few times for practice, I don't really see how it could be accidentally activated (you've really got to reach up there to get to it), so I'm comfortable with the setup.
For fun, I rode the LT around the parking lot putting it up on the center stand just to see how it handled different inclines and angles. This stand is such a pleasure to have. I even coaxed it up from the side stand while standing next to it.
This device will definitely come in handy. I highly recommend the procedure for anyone considering it.