E-Clip removal-Closing Throttle Cable - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 1:26 pm Thread Starter
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E-Clip removal-Closing Throttle Cable

In my workings with replacing the throttle cables, I am struggling on getting the E-Clip removed from the closing throttle cable. I have removed the fuel rail but have not removed the air box (I am trying to avoid removing this but may be shooting myself in the foot for not doing so).

I have tried using a 1.5mm allen wrench and also a small screwdriver, among an assortment of many other tools that I thought would help. When I use the screwdriver, the clip just spins.

Is their a special technique/tool to use to remove the clip, or do I just need to suck it up and remove the air box?

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #2 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 1:42 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer100
In my workings with replacing the throttle cables, I am struggling on getting the E-Clip removed from the closing throttle cable. I have removed the fuel rail but have not removed the air box (I am trying to avoid removing this but may be shooting myself in the foot for not doing so).

I have tried using a 1.5mm allen wrench and also a small screwdriver, among an assortment of many other tools that I thought would help. When I use the screwdriver, the clip just spins.

Is their a special technique/tool to use to remove the clip, or do I just need to suck it up and remove the air box?
Are you pushing in on the cable adapter sleeve to compress the spring? That pushes the sleeve back and exposes the clip, with much more room to get around it. If I remember correctly, it is an "E" clip, and there should be room to get a small screwdriver tip into the small openings on the closed end to pry it out of the slot. Careful to not allow it to "pop" off though, as it will undoubtedly end up in the worst possible place to retrieve it.

If you cannot see the small openings at the closed end, then rotate it so that you can use needle nose pliers to push on both of the open end tips simultaneously, again, careful to not let it pop out and fly away.

I have had them off at least four times, and never had an issue with removing them.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #3 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 2:07 pm Thread Starter
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E-Clip

Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
Are you pushing in on the cable adapter sleeve to compress the spring? That pushes the sleeve back and exposes the clip, with much more room to get around it. If I remember correctly, it is an "E" clip, and there should be room to get a small screwdriver tip into the small openings on the closed end to pry it out of the slot. Careful to not allow it to "pop" off though, as it will undoubtedly end up in the worst possible place to retrieve it.

If you cannot see the small openings at the closed end, then rotate it so that you can use needle nose pliers to push on both of the open end tips simultaneously, again, careful to not let it pop out and fly away.

I have had them off at least four times, and never had an issue with removing them.
Dave, yes, I am pushing in on the cable adapter sleeve to compress the spring. I have been using various tools to try to push the open end tips but will try the needle nose pliers and see if that works.

One thing of note is that I have not removed the small fuel line (with the plastic t-fittings) that has the 4 hoses going into the motor. I am assuming (hopefully correctly) that these do not get removed once you get the fuel rail disconnected and removed.

I appreciate the advice. Will let you know how it turns out.

Regards,

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #4 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 3:20 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer100
Dave, yes, I am pushing in on the cable adapter sleeve to compress the spring. I have been using various tools to try to push the open end tips but will try the needle nose pliers and see if that works.

One thing of note is that I have not removed the small fuel line (with the plastic t-fittings) that has the 4 hoses going into the motor. I am assuming (hopefully correctly) that these do not get removed once you get the fuel rail disconnected and removed.

I appreciate the advice. Will let you know how it turns out.

Regards,

James
The small lines are vacuum lines to the charcoal emissions cannister, not fuel lines. They do not have to be removed to pull the fuel rail. The hardest part of pulling the fuel rail is getting the two fuel hoses off after loosening/removing the clamps.

Are you sure there are not very small openings at the back end of the "E" clip that you can use a very small screwdriver to "pull" the clip off? That is easier than trying to push it off.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #5 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 3:52 pm Thread Starter
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E-clip

Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
The small lines are vacuum lines to the charcoal emissions cannister, not fuel lines. They do not have to be removed to pull the fuel rail. The hardest part of pulling the fuel rail is getting the two fuel hoses off after loosening/removing the clamps.

Are you sure there are not very small openings at the back end of the "E" clip that you can use a very small screwdriver to "pull" the clip off? That is easier than trying to push it off.
Thanks Dave for the clarification on the vacuum lines to the cannister. I was incorrectly assuming that they were fuel lines because they were right above the fuel rail. I was able to remove the two fuel hoses off of each end of the fuel rail without a problem (they don't like to move but will with enough force).

I do see the small openings at the back of the e-clip. I have tried a screwdriver to get in there but am not very successful at it. I am going to try threading a small wire through the opening to get two ends in which to be able to pull with a pair of pliers. Will see if this works.

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #6 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 4:29 pm Thread Starter
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E-clip- Removed Successfully

Dave, I got the clip out. Whew!!! I don't think I care to admit the number of hours spent on that puppy.

Thanks again for your insight and advice.

I used one of those real thin screwdrivers with the spinning knob on top. They are the smallest set I have and it worked. I pushed the spring in and was able to slip the screwdriver through one of the holes at the bottom and gave it enough force to pop off. Thankfully also it didn't bury itself somewhere towards the center of the motor.

Onwards and upwards!

Regards,

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #7 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 4:35 pm
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Dental/spirng hook

When I remove them puppies (E Clips) I use a spring hook, looks like a dentist pick they clear your teeth with.

Rich Kirker
2002 LTC Pacific Blue
Caliper Moto Lights, Hyper light brake lights, Spiegler brake lines, Ride West side markers, Grip puppies, HyperPro Springs and CA HID Kit.
BMWMOA #124306
2009 Honda Shadow (Wife's)
Blue & Pearl
"Well It’s not rocket science but absolutely a nightmare. At the end of the day you had a fairly unique situation that I personally at this moment in time could see me having as well 24/7. With all due respect, it shouldn’t of happened."
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post #8 of 10 Old Dec 9th, 2006, 5:41 pm Thread Starter
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E-clip

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkirker
When I remove them puppies (E Clips) I use a spring hook, looks like a dentist pick they clear your teeth with.
Rich, I used some of those too, or something like it. I have them in a couple of different bends, and I was thinking they may be the ticket, but as it turns out, the small, very thin screwdriver finally did the trick for me. The screwdriver I used was smaller than the hook tools I was trying. Also, when I was using the hook tools, I tried to make darn sure to steer clear of any and all hoses (those tools are quite sharp at their ends).

Take care,

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #9 of 10 Old Dec 10th, 2006, 6:18 pm
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Cool !!

Did you do the upgrade to the newer 05 style cables ?
Did it on my 02. What a difference

Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer100
Rich, I used some of those too, or something like it. I have them in a couple of different bends, and I was thinking they may be the ticket, but as it turns out, the small, very thin screwdriver finally did the trick for me. The screwdriver I used was smaller than the hook tools I was trying. Also, when I was using the hook tools, I tried to make darn sure to steer clear of any and all hoses (those tools are quite sharp at their ends).

Take care,

James

Rich Kirker
2002 LTC Pacific Blue
Caliper Moto Lights, Hyper light brake lights, Spiegler brake lines, Ride West side markers, Grip puppies, HyperPro Springs and CA HID Kit.
BMWMOA #124306
2009 Honda Shadow (Wife's)
Blue & Pearl
"Well It’s not rocket science but absolutely a nightmare. At the end of the day you had a fairly unique situation that I personally at this moment in time could see me having as well 24/7. With all due respect, it shouldn’t of happened."
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post #10 of 10 Old Dec 11th, 2006, 3:16 am Thread Starter
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Smile Throttle cable upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkirker
Did you do the upgrade to the newer 05 style cables ?
Did it on my 02. What a difference
Rich, yes, it is the upgrade to the newer 05 style cables.

I am looking forward to the ride when all assembled. I have heard that it is quite an improvement.

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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