Things needed for an oil change. - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 10:50 am Thread Starter
 
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Things needed for an oil change.

I am not completely a boob. I know you need the oil. Any recommendations on a filter and is there an need for a new seal on the drain plug or crush washer?

Thanks guys
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post #2 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 11:08 am
 
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If you buy the BMW filter from a dealer the package contains a crush washer for the drainplug, a filter O-Ring gasket and an engine case cover plate O-ring that covers the sump where the oil filter resides. If you don't already have a few, you will find that the paper oil funnels made specifically for the LT are easy to use. BMW dealers stock them. I've found through experience that even though the manuals say the engine takes four quarts with a filter change, they aren't right. Put three quarts in, then measure no more than 1/2 of quart number four, and after putting it in the LT, start the bike on the centerstand and let it run for about 10 minutes. Observe under the bike for any leaks using your fingers and white paper towels. When you shut the engine off, wait for 10 minutes then check the oil level in the sight window. The level should be a little more than half way up. If not, add a little more oil and repeat the running time, stop time, and then re-check the sight window. Make sure not to over fill only seeing oil in the sight window.
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post #3 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 11:09 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer222
I am not completely a boob. I know you need the oil. Any recommendations on a filter and is there an need for a new seal on the drain plug or crush washer?

Thanks guys
Most of us just carefully loosen the three bolts on the filter cover, and drain the oil there and do not mess with the drain plug at all.

The O-ring on the filter cover usually easily lasts 2-3 oil changes, but if you buy the filter kit from the dealer (with the crush washer you don't need and the O-ring), go ahead and change it.

I will make it easy for everyone else:

If you don't use (Insert favorite brand here) oil, you are a complete idiot!

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

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post #4 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 12:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer222
I am not completely a boob. I know you need the oil. Any recommendations on a filter and is there an need for a new seal on the drain plug or crush washer?

Thanks guys
Wanna make the job an easy clean up afterwards? Do what Dave Moore recommended several years ago. Drop by Wal-Mart and in the pet accessories department, pick up a 24-count package of puppy training pads. They're about 2' x 2' and being leakproof, will catch the spillage; keep the messy nutz and boltz from leaving spots on the floor; and when you're finished with the work, fold up, toss and voila' - no mess. Keeps Momma happy, too!
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post #5 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 12:52 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocityguy
start the bike on the centerstand and let it run for about 10 minutes.
I wouldn't idle the bike for 10 minutes. The manual says to start it up and go. Has to do with getting oil circulation throughout the engine.



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post #6 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 2:13 pm
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Snip ..If you don't already have a few, you will find that the paper oil funnels made specifically for the LT are easy to use.

Hi , I have been using a one of those thingies that are made for a gallon bottle on anti-freeze . It has a clear hose that is a round 16" long .It doesn't fit the quart size bottle's of oil real well , but if you screw them on tight it doesn't leak there . It is a major PIA to get oil in on our LT , the Hannigan is kind of in the way . Hope this is of help ...Patric...

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post #7 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 9:52 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all the insights. You can drain all the oil by removing the filter? Are there any filters other than BMW's that any of you would recommed? Fram/ K&N?

Thanks
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post #8 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 10:02 pm
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I'm happy to help you

Marc,

If you'll do a search, you'll find "tons" of information on oil changes, filters and the best oil to use. Make the trip over to Temple Terrace/ I-75 and I-4 and we'll do your change in my garage any time. That's how I learned. Got the tools and instructions.

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

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post #9 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 10:23 pm
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If the filters were not painted I would run the Amsoil ones. So, I just run the BMW filters..no worries.

When you are in a pinch for "funnels" take some aluminum foil and form it around a turkey baster. Slide the foil off and you will have an "instant" funnel.

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post #10 of 27 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 10:28 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandiver
Marc,

If you'll do a search, you'll find "tons" of information on oil changes, filters and the best oil to use. Make the trip over to Temple Terrace/ I-75 and I-4 and we'll do your change in my garage any time. That's how I learned. Got the tools and instructions.

I am over that way quite often. I might just take you up on that or at least meet for some coffee and a ride.

Thanks
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post #11 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 5:38 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfell
If the filters were not painted I would run the Amsoil ones. So, I just run the BMW filters..no worries.
I'm in the BMW camp too. I'm sure Amsoil filters are good but I'm convinced that OE BMW are more than sufficient.

Besides that if Amsoil wanted to deny a claim they have more than enough wiggle room written into their warranty to do so.

http://www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx
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post #12 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 7:18 am
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Any time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer222
I am over that way quite often. I might just take you up on that or at least meet for some coffee and a ride.

Thanks
I'm 5 minutes from I-4 & I-75 so call ahead and we'll get your fluids changes in less than an hour. It not hard and was my first step in K1200LT maintenance. I've done it several times.

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

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post #13 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 7:50 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6654
Besides that if Amsoil wanted to deny a claim they have more than enough wiggle room written into their warranty to do so.

http://www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx
Ralph - here is AMSOIL's filter warranty. http://www.amsoil.com/warranty_filters.aspx AMSOIL has a great reputation regarding their warranties and have been in business since 1973. Check out their warranty complaints at http://www.wisconsin.bbb.org/commonr...ml?bid=5000854 . There have been no warranty issues in the past 3 years. AMSOIL has over a million customers. Very impressive!
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post #14 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 8:47 am
 
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Thanks Tim, I already read all of the warranty. I still choose to use OE filters for my own reasons.
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post #15 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 9:40 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer222
Thanks for all the insights. You can drain all the oil by removing the filter? Are there any filters other than BMW's that any of you would recommed? Fram/ K&N?

Thanks
Yes, if you loosen the three filter cover screws slightly, then with the pan in place loosen one further, you can drain the oil there. No need to mess with the drain plug.

I always used the BMW filter, it is a very good one, and no real good reason to use anything else in my opinion. I think cost is the only reasonable reason for one to change, but you have to be careful, you may just get what you pay for. There have been no substantiated cases of paint flaking off a filter that I have seen, but I just cannot fathom taking the chance to save a buck. One little paint flake getting past the strainer could cause very expensive grief. Better to be confident now than very sorry later.

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post #16 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 10:31 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer222
Thanks for all the insights. You can drain all the oil by removing the filter? Are there any filters other than BMW's that any of you would recommed? Fram/ K&N?

Thanks

My local Murrays auto parts sells an unpainted fram filter for the Lt at half the cost of bmw's.

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post #17 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 11:26 am
 
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I have to agree with this guy. I don't change my oil often enough to worry about the cost of filters.

"I sadly smile and wonder every time I see owners using 'equivalent' parts to save an inconsequential sum of money. By using manufacturer-specified parts, proper fit, performance and reliability are assured. If you must use 'equivalent' parts, let it be for reasons of necessity rather than cheapness, and be very sure you know how it compares to the approved part."
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post #18 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 11:36 am
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OK, someone who knows for sure pipe up and clarify.

In most auto blocks I've worked on (way back when), seems to me oil is picked up from the strainer, goes through oil pump, through filter and then to the engine.

IF (big if) that's the path on the K-brick as well, any paint sloughed off the outside of the filter would be caught by the filter before being injected into the engine proper.

Yes, it is Monday, only one mug o coffee down and CRS does come into play. I could very well have my recollection of how it flows bass-ackwards. It's been more than a year or two since I was 'inside' an engine block.

Tate

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post #19 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 11:47 am
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Things needed for an oil change (CAUTION)

Just be careful not to over-tighten the three bolts holding the oil filter cover in place. Yesterday , after many years of tightening these bolts by hand, I was changing the oil on my bike when I snapped off one of the bolts.

Guess I'll have to start torquing the bolts in future.

Dave B
Calgary, Alberta
08 R1200RT
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post #20 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 11:54 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
I always used the BMW filter, it is a very good one, and no real good reason to use anything else in my opinion. I think cost is the only reasonable reason for one to change, but you have to be careful, you may just get what you pay for.
I agree on using the BMW filter, but when the Swanz chunks free AMSOIL filters into the filter drawer, well.....



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post #21 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 11:56 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbroughton
Just be careful not to over-tighten the three bolts holding the oil filter cover in place. Yesterday , after many years of tightening these bolts by hand, I was changing the oil on my bike when I snapped off one of the bolts.

Guess I'll have to start torquing the bolts in future.
It wasn't from torque, but age that you had your snap off. They became brittle. That's why we jumped all over David's stronger bolt kits when he offered them.

I think if he would factor in a good profit for himself, he could make it worth his time with the bolt and socket kits.



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post #22 of 27 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 12:01 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zotter
OK, someone who knows for sure pipe up and clarify.

In most auto blocks I've worked on (way back when), seems to me oil is picked up from the strainer, goes through oil pump, through filter and then to the engine.

IF (big if) that's the path on the K-brick as well, any paint sloughed off the outside of the filter would be caught by the filter before being injected into the engine proper.

Yes, it is Monday, only one mug o coffee down and CRS does come into play. I could very well have my recollection of how it flows bass-ackwards. It's been more than a year or two since I was 'inside' an engine block.
That's precisely how my Isuzu works and everything else I've ever broken down was. Of note also is that the pressure relief valve is up stream from the filter so all of the unneeded excess oil gets dumped back into the pan unfiltered. So the only oil getting through the filter is what the engine actually needs for lubrication. Which in my mind is why oil filter flow capacity is not as big a deal as it is touted to be as it's not exactly "gushing" through it anyway. I'm assuming the LT is no different.
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post #23 of 27 Old Dec 7th, 2006, 2:42 pm
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Well, that pretty much confirms the generic auto blocks. The K-brick ain't all that different. But does anyone *know* for sure what the flow path is in our Ks?

Could it really be after all this time that the 'paint flake concern' is a boon-dongle?

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post #24 of 27 Old Dec 7th, 2006, 2:55 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
It wasn't from torque, but age that you had your snap off. They became brittle. That's why we jumped all over David's stronger bolt kits when he offered them.

I think if he would factor in a good profit for himself, he could make it worth his time with the bolt and socket kits.
Not to worry. The bolt kits are worth my time. The socket kits were not done to make any decent money, and succeded. I certainly did not loose, but did not go into it with "normal" profits as a goal.

edited: I still have quite a few of the screw kits available.

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post #25 of 27 Old Dec 7th, 2006, 8:45 pm Thread Starter
 
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First oil change complete. Thanks for all the help!!

Marc
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post #26 of 27 Old Dec 8th, 2006, 11:13 am
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Stonger Bolt Kit?

What was in this kit? I assume three screws? And the difference between them, the stock ones, and any steel ones I could pick up from my hardware store.

Before changing them, I would assume that the oil filter cover bolts are designed to strip themselves before damaging the threads in the bike? So, if they are stronger, can't that "screw" me if I misalign them? On the hand, don't bolts loose strength every time they are reused, thus should be replaced regularly anyway --something I never do.

Finally, I don't take out the drain plug because I can't see what size or shape wrench to use. But it leaks so I probably should...anyone know what size it takes.
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post #27 of 27 Old Dec 8th, 2006, 11:54 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhendy
So, if they are stronger, can't that "screw" me if I misalign them? On the hand, don't bolts loose strength every time they are reused, thus should be replaced regularly anyway --something I never do.

Finally, I don't take out the drain plug because I can't see what size or shape wrench to use. But it leaks so I probably should...anyone know what size it takes.
If you were to just run the bolts in as far as you can by hand before putting the wrench to them, you wouldn't be able to crossthread them. Bolts do tend to stretch when torqued, but for the stainless bolts that replace the factory ones, you'd have to torque them pretty high for that to become a factor.

I think the drain plug takes a 14mm allen wrench/driver.
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