Removing the clutch - Help Wanted - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 6:31 pm Thread Starter
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Exclamation Removing the clutch - Help Wanted

Jerod521 came over last night and this afternoon to help me do a slave cylinder check and weep hole in transmission case, as well as the shocks. The slave cylinder had DOT 4 on it upon removal and there's signs that it might have leaked into the clutch area.

Soooo, now we're removing the transmission housing to inspect the clutch and replace the clutch plate (40K miles, might as be proactive even if there's no brake fluid).

The LT Cylmer's manual says to "remove the fuel injection system (page 560, #12). IS THIS NECESSARY It appears the battery box should be removed.

Dave and others who have ventured into this territory, can you tell us what is necessary? (see photos for our status). We're diving back in tomorrow late morning.

The silver lining is that the throttle cable replacement should go easier and I'm going to do a 24K mile service 14K miles earlier (since the bike is almost in a million pieces).
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Regards,
John
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post #2 of 13 Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 7:59 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgburns
Jerod521 came over last night and this afternoon to help me do a slave cylinder check and weep hole in transmission case, as well as the shocks. The slave cylinder had DOT 4 on it upon removal and there's signs that it might have leaked into the clutch area.

Soooo, now we're removing the transmission housing to inspect the clutch and replace the clutch plate (40K miles, might as be proactive even if there's no brake fluid).

The LT Cylmer's manual says to "remove the fuel injection system (page 560, #12). IS THIS NECESSARY It appears the battery box should be removed.

Dave and others who have ventured into this territory, can you tell us what is necessary? (see photos for our status). We're diving back in tomorrow late morning.

The silver lining is that the throttle cable replacement should go easier and I'm going to do a 24K mile service 14K miles earlier (since the bike is almost in a million pieces).

John,
I had the same question a few months ago. In short, you don't have to remove the fuel injection, but you do need to remove the inlet air box. To do that you have to remove the four clamps, 2 re-usable and 2 not. The reason is so that you can lower the rear of the engine once the long gearbox mounting bolt is removed. That way you can 'easily' get to the wires for the starter motor. Do NOT remove the battery box. It is a bitch to re-align. DAMHIK.
It does help to unclip the battery leads where they have a plastic mounting clip to the frame to give you some slack when you lower the rear of the engine/gearbox. + and - leads.
Do yourself a favor and make the 8mm bolts with heads cut off to slide off the gearbox. I just bought some at Home Depot - longest they have. Makes life much easier.

Good luck.

-Brian Louw
Arroyo Grande, CA.

2013 K1600GT - Light Grey Metallic
2016 R1200GSA

Last edited by blouw; Dec 2nd, 2006 at 8:05 pm.
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post #3 of 13 Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 8:07 pm
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John,
I just did a clutch 2 months ago.
The battery box can be left in place ( it is harder to get to the starter but it is worth it in the end). You will have to support the engine when you have to remove the transmission. You will have to lower the engine and transmission about a inch to an inch and a half, in order to clear all obstacles. This means the fuel injection can remain in place( upon reassembly make sure all the rubber boots in the intake system are seated,don't ask me how I know this, just trust me.
What I noticed was that the engine could not be allowed to be lowered more than an inch and a half. The wires to the starter have to be removed and installed with the engine and transmission in the up position. Make sure you check the intake system before you put the tupper ware back on.
The project might seem large, but I did it by myself in about 4,5 hours after I had all the parts.
If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
Don
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post #4 of 13 Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 9:06 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. The airbox is off already, so we'll try to lower the engine/trans tomorrow.

Regards,
John
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post #5 of 13 Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 9:34 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgburns
Jerod521 came over last night and this afternoon to help me do a slave cylinder check and weep hole in transmission case, as well as the shocks. The slave cylinder had DOT 4 on it upon removal and there's signs that it might have leaked into the clutch area.

Soooo, now we're removing the transmission housing to inspect the clutch and replace the clutch plate (40K miles, might as be proactive even if there's no brake fluid).

The LT Cylmer's manual says to "remove the fuel injection system (page 560, #12). IS THIS NECESSARY It appears the battery box should be removed.

Dave and others who have ventured into this territory, can you tell us what is necessary? (see photos for our status). We're diving back in tomorrow late morning.

The silver lining is that the throttle cable replacement should go easier and I'm going to do a 24K mile service 14K miles earlier (since the bike is almost in a million pieces).
If I remember correctly, you have to lift the throttle body assemblies to keep the throttle position sensor from hitting the frame casting when the rear of the engine is dropped down.

Tip: Look at the inside of the frame casting on the right side of the bike, and you will see that part of it curves in under part of the tranny housing. Not much you can do to make getting the tranny out the first time easier, but if you grind off about 1/8" of the curved portion it is MUCH easier to get back in, and back out again if you ever have to remove it again.

I removed the left side forward engine mount bolt and put a small (about 1/4" dia.) rod in it's place, then loosened the right side one considerably to allow the rear of the engine to swing toward the left to allow the tranny to clear the right side of the frame as it is dropped down.

Careful of the engine case ground and starter cables, if you drop the engine too far without getting these off you can damage them.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #6 of 13 Old Dec 2nd, 2006, 11:18 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
If I remember correctly, you have to lift the throttle body assemblies to keep the throttle position sensor from hitting the frame casting when the rear of the engine is dropped down.

Tip: Look at the inside of the frame casting on the right side of the bike, and you will see that part of it curves in under part of the tranny housing. Not much you can do to make getting the tranny out the first time easier, but if you grind off about 1/8" of the curved portion it is MUCH easier to get back in, and back out again if you ever have to remove it again.

I removed the left side forward engine mount bolt and put a small (about 1/4" dia.) rod in it's place, then loosened the right side one considerably to allow the rear of the engine to swing toward the left to allow the tranny to clear the right side of the frame as it is dropped down.

Careful of the engine case ground and starter cables, if you drop the engine too far without getting these off you can damage them.
Thanks for the tips Dave. I had a chance to review the manual again. It also says to remove the radiators from their mounting brackets (and disconnect the starter and alternator connectors as you indicated). Does that mean leave them in place, supported by the hoses? Is that a necessary step?

Regards,
John
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post #7 of 13 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 6:45 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgburns
Thanks for the tips Dave. I had a chance to review the manual again. It also says to remove the radiators from their mounting brackets (and disconnect the starter and alternator connectors as you indicated). Does that mean leave them in place, supported by the hoses? Is that a necessary step?
Leave them in place , do disconnect. Do allow the TPS to be your guide with lowering the back of the motor.
It's overkill to remove the front motor mount. When the rear of the motor is lowered you will have plenty of room to remove the trans.

Pete Murray
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post #8 of 13 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 8:14 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgburns
Thanks for the tips Dave. I had a chance to review the manual again. It also says to remove the radiators from their mounting brackets (and disconnect the starter and alternator connectors as you indicated). Does that mean leave them in place, supported by the hoses? Is that a necessary step?
Yes, not all that difficult. The radiator attachments are basically "C" clips and washers. Pop the "C" clips out, remove the washers and remove the outer metal attachment brackets. Then push the radiator mounting pins out of the rubber washers, and leave them hanging.. It is a bit of a challenge, but not as bad as trying to get to the upper radiator hose clamp if you ever remove the radiators!

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #9 of 13 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 8:16 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
Leave them in place , do disconnect. Do allow the TPS to be your guide with lowering the back of the motor.
It's overkill to remove the front motor mount. When the rear of the motor is lowered you will have plenty of room to remove the trans.
I did not remove the front motor mount, just the left bolt. The tranny has to swing a little to the left to clear the protrusion on the frame, and if both front mount bolts are in place but just loosened, the engine will not swing left as needed. Maybe my frame had more metal on protrusion than some, but even the service manual mentions moving the tranny left to drop it.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #10 of 13 Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 10:28 am
 
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I know it's under control, but what a mess!! Let this be a lesson to those who have put off drilling the slave cylinder weep hole, BIT THE BULLET AND DO IT!!
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post #11 of 13 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 9:19 pm
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cliff notes from tranny replacement

not necessary to remove the radiators
not necessary to remove the fuel injector rail
airbox has to come off - go back with 4 screw clamps versus the fixed ones
once you've got everything off up to the drive shaft, put a board across the bottom of the engine and a jack under that....
i had a transmission jack and put a 4 x 4 under the frame at the back between the saddle bags and could jack the frame up using the transmission jack
take out the transmission mounting bolt and then you can jack up the frame enough to get the bolts out that hold the transmission to the engine....
you will need to let the engine down a little once you've jacked the frame up a little.....
doesn't take much movement to get the clearance you need to get the transmission out.....
if you disconnect the wires going to the starter from the top side you can drop the transmission enough to get the starter off from the bottom....without trying to get to the wires on the starter when its hard to reach.....

PM me if you need any info I just finished putting a new transmission in mine a month or so ago.....

Kip
99 LT
97 Shadow 1100
Jefferson, Ga
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post #12 of 13 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 9:21 pm
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by the way

dont forget that your computer is going to lose its mind once you've had the battery disconnected a while....
when you hook the battery back up, turn the key on, rotate the throttle from off to full on 3 times and turn the key back off....that will establish some baseline throttle position information .....
if you dont do it you'll get crappy gas mileage and be running rich .....
(learned the hard way)

Kip
99 LT
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Jefferson, Ga
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post #13 of 13 Old Dec 4th, 2006, 11:55 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kip
dont forget that your computer is going to lose its mind once you've had the battery disconnected a while....
when you hook the battery back up, turn the key on, rotate the throttle from off to full on 3 times and turn the key back off....that will establish some baseline throttle position information .....
if you dont do it you'll get crappy gas mileage and be running rich .....
(learned the hard way)
Thanks for the reminder!

Regards,
John
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