Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem. - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 12:18 pm Thread Starter
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Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

Hi all.

I'm a noobie to the valve adjustment routine. I thought I was progressing, but have to step back a bit and hope to get some feedback before I cause major issues. My LT is a 2000 with about 46K. Here's what I've done so far:
Tupperware off; valve cover off; check valve clearances; I found 3 tight (.11, .12 & .14) inlet valves. Zip ties on; sprockets off; bearing caps off; replaced 3 buckets; bearing caps on; sprockets on; zip ties off; roll the motor a couple of times and things seem fine, except 2 valves on one cylinder which showed .15 earlier now show don't accept the .15 feeler gauge. Back to the start.

Zip ties on; sprockets off; bearing caps off; replaced those 2 buckets; bearing caps on; sprockets on; zip ties off; roll the motor a couple of times again. I think I'm almost done. I have torqued down the 4 bearing caps on the right and am now doing the last on the left. The ones with the chain guide in the middle. The 2 long studs that hold the chain guide are acting strange. I torque to where I think it should be, but my torque wrench isn't clicking. The top stud snaps off. Off to the dealer again. He doesn't have any M6 x 75mm studs and it's a 3 week wait from Germany. He sends me to an industrial supply place. I am able to buy a steel threaded M6 rod and they actually cut two 75mm pieces off for me, which is the length I need. I just need to get the chain guide off to replace the studs. I my haste, I forget to zip tie the sprockets. I am able to remove both studs and can insert my 2 new threaded pieces. This is where I am now. I have 2 major questions:

1) Since the 2 studs seemed to be a softer metal (one broke, the other stretched a bit), Should I use the 2 pieces I jury-rigged, or should I wait the 3 weeks for the spec studs from Germany? I would not be surprised if the originals were designed of a softer metal so the head wouldn't get injured. I believe the head is aluminum. Comments?

2) It is entirely possible that I allowed the timing chain to get out of sync by 1 or 2 chain links, as I failed to zip tie the sprocket on the last step. What's the quickest best way to ensure things are in alignment?

Thanks for any help the masses can provide.

Current:
2000 BMW K1200LT - "Like riding on a rail"
Previous:
1982 Honda Goldwing Interstate - "Gas, oil and Go"
1979 Harley Sportster - "Always broken, always fixing"
1978 Yamaha 500 - "Training wheels"


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post #2 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 1:44 pm
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Re: Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

I will leave it to the experts to chime in here but you will need to ensure the positioning of the #1 piston by using a wood dowel to measure where it bottoms out (BDC) and the top of the piston travel (TDC). Place a mark on the dowel at these two points of travel then rotate the cam until you find the midway point (90 degrees BTDC). At this position you should have marks on the two sprockets line up. You can also view this
and the other two videos to hopefully get you back on track.

"If at first you don't succeed... well, so much for skydiving."

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post #3 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 3:58 pm
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Re: Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imst0ked View Post
Hi all.

I'm a noobie to the valve adjustment routine. I thought I was progressing, but have to step back a bit and hope to get some feedback before I cause major issues. My LT is a 2000 with about 46K. Here's what I've done so far:
Tupperware off; valve cover off; check valve clearances; I found 3 tight (.11, .12 & .14) inlet valves. Zip ties on; sprockets off; bearing caps off; replaced 3 buckets; bearing caps on; sprockets on; zip ties off; roll the motor a couple of times and things seem fine, except 2 valves on one cylinder which showed .15 earlier now show don't accept the .15 feeler gauge. Back to the start.

Zip ties on; sprockets off; bearing caps off; replaced those 2 buckets; bearing caps on; sprockets on; zip ties off; roll the motor a couple of times again. I think I'm almost done. I have torqued down the 4 bearing caps on the right and am now doing the last on the left. The ones with the chain guide in the middle. The 2 long studs that hold the chain guide are acting strange. I torque to where I think it should be, but my torque wrench isn't clicking. The top stud snaps off. Off to the dealer again. He doesn't have any M6 x 75mm studs and it's a 3 week wait from Germany. He sends me to an industrial supply place. I am able to buy a steel threaded M6 rod and they actually cut two 75mm pieces off for me, which is the length I need. I just need to get the chain guide off to replace the studs. I my haste, I forget to zip tie the sprockets. I am able to remove both studs and can insert my 2 new threaded pieces. This is where I am now. I have 2 major questions:

1) Since the 2 studs seemed to be a softer metal (one broke, the other stretched a bit), Should I use the 2 pieces I jury-rigged, or should I wait the 3 weeks for the spec studs from Germany? I would not be surprised if the originals were designed of a softer metal so the head wouldn't get injured. I believe the head is aluminum. Comments?

2) It is entirely possible that I allowed the timing chain to get out of sync by 1 or 2 chain links, as I failed to zip tie the sprocket on the last step. What's the quickest best way to ensure things are in alignment?

Thanks for any help the masses can provide.

A few questions:

1. Do you have a Clymer manual? I am guessing not by what you've written. If not, don't do anything else until you buy one.

2. What brand is your torque wrench? Please don't say Harbor Freight.

3. You said you tightened the studs "to where I think it should be." A torque wrench has no setting for "where I think it should be." Exactly what torque setting was on your wrench when you ruined the stud?

4. I absolutely would not use anything other than the factory studs. Doing otherwise risks your head which is way more expensive.

5. The Clymer manual explains the cam timing process quite clearly.
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1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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post #4 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 4:49 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

Thanks Voyager.

1) I don't. I have the BMW Service manual in PDF and hardcopy, but was working mainly using Kirk Johnson's videos as a guide.
2) Craftsman digital purchased last year.
3) The Torque wrench was set to 10 NM, but sometimes you get a feeling that something isn't right. I actually started to question the torque value, so went back to some of the other bearing cap nuts, and sure enough I got the click-click reassurance. So, I proceeded on with the 2 studs in question. That's when the top one broke. The dealer rep suggested at some point in the past the studs may have been weakened by someone being over-zealous.
4) My gut feeling as well. The reason for that question.
5) I don't have the Clymer manual. I guess, I was wondering if bringing the #1 to TDC, and confirming the notches on the back and front of the cams point horizontal is a fool-proof method

Current:
2000 BMW K1200LT - "Like riding on a rail"
Previous:
1982 Honda Goldwing Interstate - "Gas, oil and Go"
1979 Harley Sportster - "Always broken, always fixing"
1978 Yamaha 500 - "Training wheels"


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Last edited by imst0ked; Aug 3rd, 2017 at 4:55 pm.
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post #5 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 4:54 pm
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Re: Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

Honestly at this point I would reach out to someone local who knows /has experience in this type situation. I really am not familiar with the interference aspect of the BMW engine. (valve to piston)

There is no shame in asking for help.
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post #6 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 6:01 pm
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Re: Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

If 10 Nm is at the very bottom of the range of your torque wrench (1/2 or 3/8 drive) DON'T use it.HF is OK but use the inch pound one 1/4 drive and set it for 88.5 inch lbs (this just a hair above snug, in other words if the nut is spinning and you start to feel resistance STOP as you are there.

It is a little more complicated to check the timing of the chain so I would hold up where you are until a proper manual can be found. PM me you e-mail addy and I'll help you out.

John
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #7 of 7 Old Aug 3rd, 2017, 6:13 pm
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Re: Not wanting a valve maintenance issue to become a big problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imst0ked View Post
Thanks Voyager.

1) I don't. I have the BMW Service manual in PDF and hardcopy, but was working mainly using Kirk Johnson's videos as a guide.
2) Craftsman digital purchased last year.
3) The Torque wrench was set to 10 NM, but sometimes you get a feeling that something isn't right. I actually started to question the torque value, so went back to some of the other bearing cap nuts, and sure enough I got the click-click reassurance. So, I proceeded on with the 2 studs in question. That's when the top one broke. The dealer rep suggested at some point in the past the studs may have been weakened by someone being over-zealous.
4) My gut feeling as well. The reason for that question.
5) I don't have the Clymer manual. I guess, I was wondering if bringing the #1 to TDC, and confirming the notches on the back and front of the cams point horizontal is a fool-proof method
Kirk's videos are helpful, but not a replacement for the Clymer manual, especially if you aren't an experienced wrench. The BMW manual is very good, but assumes you are a trained technician. The Clymer is much better for us amateurs. I have both and use both to cross reference each other.

10 NM is above the spec for these fasteners according to the BMW CD. Mine says 9 NM. 1 NM doesn't sound like much, but it is an 11% over torque which is significant. Particularly with BMW who is known to be aggressive on their torque specs to begin with. I would never exceed a BMW torque spec and I generally use values 5% or so below the BMW recommendations. Just my engineering judgement. I think I used 8.5 when I did my valves, but it has been a few years and I don't remember with certainty. I also had the advantage of being the first person to touch my cams so I knew they hadn't been over stressed before unless done during initial assembly. Your dealer may well be correct that the studs were yielded by a prior installation and were just waiting to break.

Were it my bike, I would order a new Clymer manual and new parts from BMW. Since the manual will arrive first, I would use the time waiting on the parts to thoroughly study the cam installation and timing process. That's just how I do things. It is your bike so you get to choose how to proceed.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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