clutch repair recommendations - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 7 Old Jul 14th, 2017, 4:29 pm Thread Starter
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Unhappy clutch repair recommendations

Just finished a trip from Chicago area to the South Dakota Black Hills and back on my LT. All in all it was was a fun trip other than laying the bike down when turning around in a gravel parking lot and noticing some clutch slippage in 3rd and 4th gears during the return trip. Couldn't make it slip all the time but definitely saw it slip multiple times.

Any recommendations, other than a dealer, of a reputable repair shop in the Northern Chicago suburbs that does BMW repair? I'm afraid to see what a dealer charges to replace the clutch.
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post #2 of 7 Old Jul 14th, 2017, 5:47 pm
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Re: clutch repair recommendations

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Originally Posted by K1200LT_newbie View Post
Just finished a trip from Chicago area to the South Dakota Black Hills and back on my LT. All in all it was was a fun trip other than laying the bike down when turning around in a gravel parking lot and noticing some clutch slippage in 3rd and 4th gears during the return trip. Couldn't make it slip all the time but definitely saw it slip multiple times.

Any recommendations, other than a dealer, of a reputable repair shop in the Northern Chicago suburbs that does BMW repair? I'm afraid to see what a dealer charges to replace the clutch.
I recommend you do it yourself. Much cheaper and you learn a lot.
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post #3 of 7 Old Jul 14th, 2017, 9:46 pm
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Re: clutch repair recommendations

If you don't have the clutch fully ingaged when to hit the gas it will slip. If it starts slipping that way, it will slip after the clutch is all in. Usually, when a clutch stars to go , it slips in 5th gear .

Patric Blackman
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post #4 of 7 Old Jul 14th, 2017, 10:09 pm
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Re: clutch repair recommendations

Like Patric said. Test it proper. Get up to highway speed in 5th gear (4,000 RPM or so) then slam on the throttle. If it slips then you need to consider a fix. Slippage in the lower gears is usually a function of acceleration before the clutch is fully engaged. Never exceed 1500 RPM when launching from a dead stop in first until the clutch is fully engaged. Any higher RPM work on a feathered clutch will cause subsequent slippage in the next gear. Just the nature of a dry clutch. Oh about $2,500 and up at the dealer and about $600 in parts is you do it yourself and replace EVERYTHING.
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post #5 of 7 Old Jul 15th, 2017, 7:14 am
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Re: clutch repair recommendations

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Like Patric said. Test it proper. Get up to highway speed in 5th gear (4,000 RPM or so) then slam on the throttle. If it slips then you need to consider a fix. Slippage in the lower gears is usually a function of acceleration before the clutch is fully engaged. Never exceed 1500 RPM when launching from a dead stop in first until the clutch is fully engaged. Any higher RPM work on a feathered clutch will cause subsequent slippage in the next gear. Just the nature of a dry clutch. Oh about $2,500 and up at the dealer and about $600 in parts is you do it yourself and replace EVERYTHING.
I would qualify that to be the nature of the LT clutch. I have driven standard shift vehicles with dry clutches for 40+ years. Everything from lawn tractors to OTR tractors. None have been as weak as the LT clutch. I think it is simply undersized for the torque it is required to transmit.

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1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #6 of 7 Old Jul 15th, 2017, 8:20 am
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Re: clutch repair recommendations

I think the clutch on the LT would last at least 200k miles if it were not for the cheap ass o-rings BMW uses. If it was not for the rear main seal leaking, and the older style slave cylinder leaking, the clutch would last the life of the bike.
I am sure BMW addresses the clutches the same way they addressed the final drive failures, that it is just a small percentage of LT's.

Mike Trevelino
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post #7 of 7 Old Jul 15th, 2017, 8:38 am
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Re: clutch repair recommendations

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I think the clutch on the LT would last at least 200k miles if it were not for the cheap ass o-rings BMW uses. If it was not for the rear main seal leaking, and the older style slave cylinder leaking, the clutch would last the life of the bike.
I am sure BMW addresses the clutches the same way they addressed the final drive failures, that it is just a small percentage of LT's.
I don't doubt that. My clutch had little wear at 54,000 miles. Then again it was well lubed with gear oil. Yes, gear oil. My rear engine shaft seal was fine as was the o-ring. Still pliable. Mine was killed by leaking transmission seals. All three rotating shaft seals were leaking. So the clutch got a double dose from both front and rear input shaft seals as the rear seal oil traveled forward along the clutch pushrod. And the FD boot was dripping oil from the output shaft seal.

However, even when brand the LT clutch would slip if engaged under high rpm. My other vehicles will either spin the tires or stall the engine if the clutch us dumped at high rpm. The LT does neither. The clutch will just slip until the wheel speed matches the engine speed. That is my definition of a weak clutch. I don't think the clutch should be the weak link. The weak link should be tire traction or engine torque. You should be able to dump the clutch at 4,000 rpm and have it lock fully in a few milliseconds by either rapidly increasing wheel speed or rapidly decreasing engine speed. That is how every other dry clutch vehicle I have driven has operated.

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1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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