Front brake question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 6 Old Jul 3rd, 2017, 10:52 pm Thread Starter
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Front brake question

Changing the front brake pads on my 2001 LT. The pins that hold the pads in came out fine. However, when going back in, they were really tough to get through the new pads. Upon further review, there is a slight bend to the pins in the middle. I'm guessing this is not the norm for these. I am having an issue finding replacement pins without going to a stealership and paying $22 a piece for them. I'm a born cheapskate and am always looking for the best price available. I can afford to drop the $50 on these, but would rather not if there's a less expensive alternative. Anybody know of any alternatives or suitable subs?

On a related note, when these pins go back in, should they be dry, or does one use antiseize on them? I have used antiseize in the past on cars and other bikes brakes. Just wondering if this is normal for BMW's or a big no-no.

TIA
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post #2 of 6 Old Jul 3rd, 2017, 10:59 pm
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Re: Front brake question

Straighten it out on a hard surface with light work from a hammer. File or stone out any surface issues. Wire brush the heck out of it and use neversieze on it going together. The saying is true, nothing cheaper on a bmw than the owner. One might give some thought to the fact that the most important thing on a motorcycle even before tires are the brakes.
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I change your tires $50, you buy them on the web.
K13S, S1000R (gone through a few GS's & RT's)
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post #3 of 6 Old Jul 3rd, 2017, 11:08 pm
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Re: Front brake question

Straighten the pins out and then you might have to file or grind some of the pad backing away so that they can float freely back and forth. Many have had to do this as the stamped backing is not perfect. There are some raised places at the top where the pad contacts the caliper ( same side as the pin). This area on the pad needs to be adjusted on some makes of pad. They should be dry but should pass all the way through and have the pin inserted easily. If the pin does not pass through almost as easily as it does without the pads in ( because of the anti rattle springs) then you need to grind some more to allow the pad to move closer up to the caliper.
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1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
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post #4 of 6 Old Jul 3rd, 2017, 11:20 pm
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Re: Front brake question

This is where you might need to grind some away where it touches the top of the caliper.
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Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #5 of 6 Old Jul 3rd, 2017, 11:21 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Front brake question

Thanks guys. I'll give this a shot tomorrow. With all the precise German engineering, I'm still tip-toeing my way around this bike, learning where I can and can't be overly forceful. On my Harley, my 5 pound sledge hammer was always my best friend....
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post #6 of 6 Old Jul 3rd, 2017, 11:24 pm
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Re: Front brake question

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Originally Posted by Father Time View Post
Thanks guys. I'll give this a shot tomorrow. With all the precise German engineering, I'm still tip-toeing my way around this bike, learning where I can and can't be overly forceful. On my Harley, my 5 pound sledge hammer was always my best friend....
Yep, in this case, the 5 lb hammer bends the pin In the case of the LT, the pads need to float as the caliper is fixed. Binding at the top against the caliper is bad.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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