Wires removed. I've check the Ohms from End to End. Factory orig. wire at plug end is stamped 5K Ohms.
Does that mean that end to end resistance should be *around* 5K Ohms?
My wires, which look good: no breaks, chaffing, cracks etc. Pliable, not brittle:
#1 - 6.59
#2 - 6.51
#3 - 7.03
#4 - 6.63
A little history... EIGHT! years ago bike was running crappy after a dealer service. No smootheness at steady RPM. Stumbling, decreased gas mileage, reduced power until giving it increased throttle... then spitting, slight hesitation again until increased throttle! At any steady RPM: crappy running. I live in Miami, that was the Summer of 2009. It was H~O~T so I garaged bike and didn't ride it becaue the performance wasn't enjoyable. Not thinking it would be an extended layup. I never put any stabilizer in the tank...
Life events got in the way...
A coupla years later... I noticed familiar "stink" at the gas cap and despite new battery and gas. Bike didn't start: Fuel Pump eff'd.
Tore bike down saw that tank breather & overflow lines disconnected at right side of tank. I figured THAT was the reason for the crappy running that dealer forgot to connect them!?
More years... bike SAT covered outside in front walkway exposed to ALL the elements and CRITTERS for perhaps a year.
Many deal snail shells on top of engine and all inside and peanut shells presumable mice &/or squirrels. No evidence of wire chewing... YET! Factory electrical tape wrapping fine wires disintegrating all over bike however there no apparent wire intrusion and appears intact.
Since Feb. 2017 or 4 months ago I started the resurrection process: new fuel pump, filter, battery (Odessy), ALL fluids. Some setbacks overcame.
First shake-down ride was 2 Saturdays ago... bike still ran crappy as thought it was the same EIGHT years ago after dealer service. Ugh!
Bought new spark plus as old oem Bosch's had 13K miles on them. Replacing them with the NGK Iridiums recommended here. While prepping to replace plugs, I decided to check spark plug wires and their resistance as I read many threads here discussing replacements.
So, are my wires the cause of the crappy running as they are "over-resisted" or do my Ohm readings have nothing to do with the 5K Ohms stamped on the plug end of the wires?
2002 K1200LTC 30K miles in the process of Resurrection!
Well, a lot of things could cause this on an LT. If you don't have a service manual, Clymer or BMW REProm, consider getting one and a GS-911 can be worth it's weight in gold for problems like this.
I don't think the unhooked fuel lines would affect this. They just let air into the tank and control the direction of overflowed fuel. Other than making a mess if you overfill your tank, they shouldn't affect anything.
I tend to not suspect ignition issues either as they tend to be less RPM dependent. A bad plug or wire will generally act up whether at steady rpm and throttle or at wide open throttle and high rpm.
This sounds like a fuel issue. Did you replace all the in tank lines when you replaced the fuel pump? Particularly, the U-shaped hose?
It would be nice to have GS-911 data on the lambda sensor and the throttle position sensor.
I am not familiar with the models older than my 07, but I believe the older bikes had a brown wire that could be cut to switch to a different fuel map. What I can't remember is if this was better or worse for hot weather. Also, I believe you could disconnect the temp sensor on the airbox, but not in addition to cutting the wire.
Since it began after a dealer service and you found one mistake already, I would start checking connections to see if a sensor was left unplugged. Or maybe a vacuum line on the TBI. It sounds like your issue is worse under high vacuum operation (part throttle), which can point to a vacuum leak. Although, that often also affects idle and I didn't see any mention of idle issues in your post.
Sitting with gas that has gone bad would also risk gumming the injectors. Although, that wouldn't have been an issue when you first saw the problem years ago.