Hello all....after 30 years in the Jap bike world I've acquired my first BMW (2000 LT with 30K) on the odometer. Although it's 17 years old, it really is a stunning bike. The price was too good to pass up. I paid $3100 and so far, so good. I read a lot of negative things about some of the issues particular to the bike (rear drive, fuel lines, brake lines, etc) but decided to take the plunge....here are my first stupid newby questions on the forum. Forgive my ignorance...
I want to address some of the issues listed above as well as investigate some of the maintenance possibilities. As a sport bike guy I'm used to pulling bodywork in order to access some things and I know there are A LOT of fasteners on the LT. How long on average does it take some of you access the nether regions of the bike...particularly, break lines, rear master cylinder res, air filter and any other items you'd deem crucial to look at?
The throttle on it is on the stiff side....like, really freaking stiff. As ignorant as it sounds, I don't know what a typical BMW throttle should feel like. I've seen others complaining about it but I just don't know if mine is binding (it does return but it does not snap back like a Jap bike). Is there something I can do to alleviate the issue aside from the $400 upgrade I've seen or do I just live with it?
Finally, what are the top 3 upgrades you'd do to your LT if you were starting at square one?
Many thanks in advance!
Welcome to the forum javenmcd. Hopefully you have a good stock of tools and a mind for DIY. That will save you lots. Voyager has a good start on a list so lets go over what you have heard or already read about. First order of business would be to check those brake lines and see if they are still the original black rubber lines. If they are, you need to replace them pretty quick with some stainless braided lines. The overwhelming replacement set is made by Spiegler. This is a safety issue as they were not really made to last this long and will very likely burst when you really need them. If they are already upgraded, lets move on.
Something new. I see some on Amazon.
The fuel lines inside the tank also the filter is in there are made of submersible fuel line and the ethanol is really hard on those old lines built before it was common in most fuel. Euro Motoelectric sells a nylon line kit for less than the OEM rubber replacements and it will never have an issue.
Also available on Amazon from them.
The final drive of the LT was over shimmed from the factory mostly in early years but that isn't an exclusive and this is what is believed to have caused the early failure of many main crown bearings in that particular drive. The 2000 is in the hunt for that type of failure and it is predominantly between 15 and 45K miles depending on several factors of different loading and riding styles. Grab the rear wheel while on the center stand and see if there is any play 9 and 3 and also 12 and 6. If there is play, you need to determine if it is the FD or the pivot bearings on the swing arm and then proceed accordingly. If you don't want to tackle that one yourself, we have an expert re-builder named Dave ( handle saddleman) who has rebuilt close to 100 if not over that by now. A quality job at a reasonable price.
Tupperware. There are a lot of screws but once you know where they all are, it doesn't take that long to get her undressed. Air filter requires removal of the fuel tank and the electrics are also under the tank.
Be wary of trying to crank it on a low battery. The higher current draw can fuse the starter relay closed so get a battery tender and use it. If the battery is old, replace it and start fresh. There is a retro kit for what was put on the newer models that has a lower than 10V cut out so it doesn't damage the new type relay. I went ahead and bit that bullet before my relay fused while out somewhere. Not cheap but peace of mind.
Quick disconnects. If it has the original plastic ones, they break and leak all over your bike. Jiffy Tite makes a good replacement set that doesn't have an O-ring you are supposed to change every time you disconnect them and only a few dollars more than the set from Beamer Boneyard. If it was a dealer refit, they only replaced the male ends with metal so it still could be half and half which is better than all plastic.
If all that hasn't scared the Hell out of you and you already had read about it prior to purchasing, welcome to the wonderful world of being an LT owner. There is nothing like it.
It has a dry clutch so learn to get her going and keep the RPM below 2K till you get fully engaged or you will severely shorten the clutch life. Then you can run the gears to the red line and she likes to run above 3k so keep the RPM's up there.
Tell us where you are so we know if someone is close enough to ride and maybe give a hand if you need it.