Removing Drivers Seat - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 2:34 pm Thread Starter
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Removing Drivers Seat

Can someone point me to instructions on how to remove my heated drivers seat on an '05 LT?
Thanks,
Jim

Jim in Dublin, OH

2005 - LT Ocean Blue (Catuffalo - Part Cat / Part Buffalo)
2002 - Moto Guzzi Cal Spec Sport
2000 - Moto Guzzi V11 Sport
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post #2 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 2:43 pm
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the easiest way is just to unscrew it from the steel support strut. i believe there are five or six alan bolts holding it to the strut. unscrew them, unplug the wire and voila.
post #3 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 2:48 pm Thread Starter
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Is the heating element wires easily accessable?
Jim

Jim in Dublin, OH

2005 - LT Ocean Blue (Catuffalo - Part Cat / Part Buffalo)
2002 - Moto Guzzi Cal Spec Sport
2000 - Moto Guzzi V11 Sport
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post #4 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 3:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsciullo
Is the heating element wires easily accessable?
Jim
No, you have to remove the left side panels to get to that little dickens. That is unless you have a bike owned by a previous owner, who had already removed the seat and was smart enough to relocate that little puppy.

Richard Vogt
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post #5 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 3:21 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsciullo
Is the heating element wires easily accessable?
Jim
The heater wires come from the factory zip-tied to the left rear seat frame tube. As noted above, the PO may have left the wire loose under the left panel, but unless you have seen/know the contours of bottom rear of the fuel tank (and thus what you have to maneuver the wires around), I strongly recommend removing the left upper side panel to get the heater wires out. What you don't want to do is try and tug on the wires "hoping" that they're free, and end up damaging them. Once you've done it, you'll know how to do it with the panel in place. (hint for later removals: remove the upper panel screw under the seat; this will allow you to flex the panel outward a bit to give the wires a bit more room to pass between the tank and the inside of the panel).

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA

Last edited by mneblett; Nov 15th, 2006 at 5:59 am.
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post #6 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 3:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsciullo
Is the heating element wires easily accessable?
Jim
i have found that i can disconnect the electrical heater plug without taking the side cover off. it involves some jiggling and cursing. keep in mind that the connector must be "squeezed" to disconnect. squeeze the wide edges together as you pull them apart. once you fiddle for a while you will see.
post #7 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 3:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit
i have found that i can disconnect the electrical heater plug without taking the side cover off. it involves some jiggling and cursing. keep in mind that the connector must be "squeezed" to disconnect. squeeze the wide edges together as you pull them apart. once you fiddle for a while you will see.
Getting the plug undone is the easy part (not really, it's a minor pita! ) Once it's loose, if the wires are still zip-tied to the seat frame, the panel's still going to have to come off -- unless you go with the rather draconian option of cutting the conenctor off and yanking the wires out!

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #8 of 16 Old Nov 14th, 2006, 4:56 pm
 
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When I sent my seat to Bill Mayer I just cut the wire for the front seat and the passenger back rest then put some new connectors in the right place for future removal without taking any plastic off. I know, I'm a lazy so in so
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post #9 of 16 Old Nov 15th, 2006, 12:40 am
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The last time I was under the panels, I rotated the portion of the driver's heated seat plug that clips to the frame by 180 degrees (and cut the zip tie). Now it is fairly easy to unplug if needed (except for all the extra relay trigger wires I have connected there).

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post #10 of 16 Old Nov 15th, 2006, 6:03 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
The last time I was under the panels, I rotated the portion of the driver's heated seat plug that clips to the frame by 180 degrees (and cut the zip tie). Now it is fairly easy to unplug if needed (except for all the extra relay trigger wires I have connected there).
Well, duh!! That's a "well, why didn't I think of that!" -- great idea.

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Fairfax, VA
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post #11 of 16 Old Nov 15th, 2006, 9:15 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsciullo
Can someone point me to instructions on how to remove my heated drivers seat on an '05 LT?
Thanks,
Jim
Jim, you can remove the left side of the fairing as stated - but if you've never done it before it will take a while - probably at least half an hour. Then you get to remember where all the screws go when you put it back on, and there is a fairly good chance you will strip some of the screws or rubber jack nuts. Figure another 45 minutes and at least an 8 out of 10 on the old cussometer during this phase. If you want to go that route here are the instructions:

http://www.snafu.org/pics/k12lt/print.html

To save you a lot of grief I recommend just cutting the wire and leave about six inches sticking out the bottom of the seat. We'll crimp 2 telephone butt connectors on the leads, as well as provide heat shrink tubing to cover each one, with another larger outer "jacket" of heat shrink tubing to fit over both wires and crimps. Make sure you put the zip tie we provide around the mounting bracket of the seat to hold the wire in place in order to keep it from getting mashed when you open/close the seat. No extra charge.

When you get your seat back all you will need to do is crimp two wires and heat up the heat shrink tubing with a hair dryer on high heat or just carefully use a cigarette lighter. This will give you a secure, waterproof professional repair.

So your choice: 1 and 1/2 hours of labor OR 3 minutes!


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post #12 of 16 Old Nov 15th, 2006, 9:27 am
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what on earth ... ?

i better take a look under my seat again. i've taken it off numerous times, and have never had to remove the side panel. am i doing something wrong?
post #13 of 16 Old Nov 15th, 2006, 10:32 am Thread Starter
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OK - Here is where I get embarrass myself and lack of technical knowldge. If I cut the wires as suggested by Ron - do I need to disconnect the battery or do I risk "shorting" some thing? Also, when I get the seat back do I need a special "crimping tool" and does it matter what wires get crimped to each other? Oh yeah, look for smoke comming out of my garage. I need a Messenger 13 "Bat Light"!!!!
Jim

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2005 - LT Ocean Blue (Catuffalo - Part Cat / Part Buffalo)
2002 - Moto Guzzi Cal Spec Sport
2000 - Moto Guzzi V11 Sport
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post #14 of 16 Old Nov 15th, 2006, 6:18 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsciullo
OK - Here is where I get embarrass myself and lack of technical knowldge. If I cut the wires as suggested by Ron - do I need to disconnect the battery or do I risk "shorting" some thing? Also, when I get the seat back do I need a special "crimping tool" and does it matter what wires get crimped to each other? Oh yeah, look for smoke comming out of my garage. I need a Messenger 13 "Bat Light"!!!!
Jim
LOL - just make sure your key is in the off position - and a pair of pliers will do the job... the wires are color coded, brown and green.

Cut and run, I say!


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post #15 of 16 Old Nov 16th, 2006, 9:08 am Thread Starter
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OK Ron. Im going to cut and run and if anything happens to my baby - Im going to come looking for ya!! Of course I will wait til my new seat comes in - there is no way I could make to AZ on my stocker!!
Jim

Jim in Dublin, OH

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post #16 of 16 Old Jul 27th, 2008, 9:40 pm
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Re: Removing Drivers Seat: I think I have answered my question.

Removing Drivers Seat: I think I have found one answer to my question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
Jim, you can remove the left side of the fairing as stated - but if you've never done it before it will take a while - probably at least half an hour. Then you get to remember where all the screws go when you put it back on, and there is a fairly good chance you will strip some of the screws or rubber jack nuts. Figure another 45 minutes and at least an 8 out of 10 on the old cussometer during this phase. If you want to go that route here are the instructions:

http://www.snafu.org/pics/k12lt/print.html

To save you a lot of grief I recommend just cutting the wire and leave about six inches sticking out the bottom of the seat. We'll crimp 2 telephone butt connectors on the leads, as well as provide heat shrink tubing to cover each one, with another larger outer "jacket" of heat shrink tubing to fit over both wires and crimps. Make sure you put the zip tie we provide around the mounting bracket of the seat to hold the wire in place in order to keep it from getting mashed when you open/close the seat. No extra charge.

When you get your seat back all you will need to do is crimp two wires and heat up the heat shrink tubing with a hair dryer on high heat or just carefully use a cigarette lighter. This will give you a secure, waterproof professional repair.

So your choice: 1 and 1/2 hours of labor OR 3 minutes!

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