ABS Question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 2:07 am Thread Starter
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ABS Question

Hello,

I don't claim to be an expert on this bike, thus I come here to ask questions:

1999 K1200 LT.

As you all know, on these bikes when the rear wheel comes off the ground the ABS red lights start flashing on the dash board.

Mine are flashing as a result of sliding on the ice over a year ago. I didn't have them reset since all the shops want a fortune to do it.

Does this cause the ABS not to work ?

Today while getting on the freeway a car changed lanes and pulled in front of me. I applied the brakes, I did not think I applied them that hard and the bike went from under me sliding for about 50 feet with sparks coming from under it.

I ended up with few bruises on my Right arm, knee and thigh and my Left hand thumb swollen. Riding jacked and jeans torn. And the right side crash bars (which were dented from before) completely dented towards the engine and the plastic broken.

I am not sure what happened, did the brakes lock up causing the slide ? It all happened so fast.

Is the ABS not functional ?

I also should add that the front tire needs replacing.

I checked the bike and nothing is loose but I can hear something rattling when I rode it home.

Anyone lives in the Bay area or close by who can help me with fixing things ?

Thank you for the help.
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post #2 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 7:03 am
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Re: ABS Question

With flashing ABS lights on your 1999 model, your ABS functionality was inoperative. I had the same experience with my LT. I figured I didn't need ABS since none of my previous motorcycles had it, so I didn't repair it. One time she got squirrelly on a rain slick road. That was all it took to get it repaired.

Glad you didn't hurt yourself too badly. Sorry about your LT. Hopefully the damage is minimal.

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
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post #3 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 8:33 am
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Re: ABS Question

As stated, on the ABS-II system, you never lose braking if the ABS fails unlike on the newer 02 and up I-ABS. You can lose the ABS function though and lock the wheels up as you did. If you can get someone with a GS911 to plug up and pull the codes, you may be able to figure out what is going on. It may be a bad sensor or something else. There is a reset procedure for the ABS-II and you can read about it here,

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/...eset-long.html

If you can reset it you may get the ABS function back but if there is an actual fault in the module, it will return and you will be back with no ABS again so watch how you brake.

It looks like you have already found it by a post I just read. A GS911 would be your other non-dealer option as stated already.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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Last edited by bmwcoolk1200; Jan 18th, 2017 at 8:38 am.
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post #4 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 12:35 pm Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
As stated, on the ABS-II system, you never lose braking if the ABS fails unlike on the newer 02 and up I-ABS. You can lose the ABS function though and lock the wheels up as you did. If you can get someone with a GS911 to plug up and pull the codes, you may be able to figure out what is going on. It may be a bad sensor or something else. There is a reset procedure for the ABS-II and you can read about it here,

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/...eset-long.html

If you can reset it you may get the ABS function back but if there is an actual fault in the module, it will return and you will be back with no ABS again so watch how you brake.

It looks like you have already found it by a post I just read. A GS911 would be your other non-dealer option as stated already.
The ABS lights are alternating back and forth, not flashing. Not sure if that makes a difference. From what I read when the rear wheel leaves the ground it causes the sensor not to find the wheel, the abs lights come on and need to be reset. Not sure who told me that I still have abs but I guess that is not the case.

There is also couple of small wires behind the crash bar on the right side, I noticed that they are now cut because the bar got bent so far back that it cut the wires. I would have to remove the bar and tubberware,...etc. to get to them and fix them.

Any idea what these wires are for ? I think one is black and red (2 thin wires) and the other is green and black or green and red.

This really SUCKS.
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post #5 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 12:44 pm Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fun Bobby View Post
With flashing ABS lights on your 1999 model, your ABS functionality was inoperative. I had the same experience with my LT. I figured I didn't need ABS since none of my previous motorcycles had it, so I didn't repair it. One time she got squirrelly on a rain slick road. That was all it took to get it repaired.

Glad you didn't hurt yourself too badly. Sorry about your LT. Hopefully the damage is minimal.

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
It is hard to tell how far to brake before the wheels lock up. Not sure what happened, it was all too fast but if the wheels did brake then why did the bike slide down the road so far.?

It could have been much worse.

Thanks.
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post #6 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 1:22 pm
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
The ABS lights are alternating back and forth, not flashing. Not sure if that makes a difference. From what I read when the rear wheel leaves the ground it causes the sensor not to find the wheel, the abs lights come on and need to be reset. Not sure who told me that I still have abs but I guess that is not the case.

There is also couple of small wires behind the crash bar on the right side, I noticed that they are now cut because the bar got bent so far back that it cut the wires. I would have to remove the bar and tubberware,...etc. to get to them and fix them.

Any idea what these wires are for ? I think one is black and red (2 thin wires) and the other is green and black or green and red.

This really SUCKS.
Normally, both lights flash together until you move and the system can detect the motion through both the front and rear sensors. Whomever told you about the wheel leaving the ground was not entirely correct. The only thing that can trigger the ABS system when braking is a loss of motion detection from one of the sensors indicating the wheel is not rotating or skidding so the ABS kicks in to modulate the brakes and allow the wheel to continue to spin while still applying brakes and allowing you to maintain control of the bike rather than skid sideways.

If the lights are alternating at power on, it indicates a fault in the system that needs to be repaired if still present and then reset. If they flash together and then move to alternating after motion, it is likely one of your wheel sensors is faulty.

The GS911 will enlighten you to the issue you are seeing if you can find one nearby to borrow.

As for the wire, I don't have my Clymer handy to check for the color code but it might be the spare accessory plug that isn't wired by default if it is on the right side. Normally it has a plug on the end same type as the fuel pump and just hangs there so it occasionally gets confused and plugged in there but it is wired backwards and hot all the time so the pump runs all the time and backwards. If that is it, it isn't of a great concern as long as it doesn't short out. Probably would blow a fuse if it did.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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Last edited by bmwcoolk1200; Jan 18th, 2017 at 1:32 pm.
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post #7 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 9:06 pm Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Normally, both lights flash together until you move and the system can detect the motion through both the front and rear sensors. Whomever told you about the wheel leaving the ground was not entirely correct. The only thing that can trigger the ABS system when braking is a loss of motion detection from one of the sensors indicating the wheel is not rotating or skidding so the ABS kicks in to modulate the brakes and allow the wheel to continue to spin while still applying brakes and allowing you to maintain control of the bike rather than skid sideways.

If the lights are alternating at power on, it indicates a fault in the system that needs to be repaired if still present and then reset. If they flash together and then move to alternating after motion, it is likely one of your wheel sensors is faulty.

The GS911 will enlighten you to the issue you are seeing if you can find one nearby to borrow.

As for the wire, I don't have my Clymer handy to check for the color code but it might be the spare accessory plug that isn't wired by default if it is on the right side. Normally it has a plug on the end same type as the fuel pump and just hangs there so it occasionally gets confused and plugged in there but it is wired backwards and hot all the time so the pump runs all the time and backwards. If that is it, it isn't of a great concern as long as it doesn't short out. Probably would blow a fuse if it did.
The reason I said what I said because these alternating abs lights came on when the bike slid on black ice a year ago, it slid down the road where both wheels were off the ground...the bike was on its side. before that the lights would not stay on once the bike was moving.

I noticed and was told that if a wheel is detected to have left contact with the ground as was the case here then the abs lights would flash/alternate back and forth. But the abs was still operational.

First time this happened a shop reset the lights for me but they no longer do that....they've gotten too big...it is the same shop that sells that Gizmo you mentioned.

So these lights started doing that right after the bike skidded a year ago (wheels came off the ground) before that they were normal.

Thank you.
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post #8 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 9:53 pm
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
The reason I said what I said because these alternating abs lights came on when the bike slid on black ice a year ago, it slid down the road where both wheels were off the ground...the bike was on its side. before that the lights would not stay on once the bike was moving.

I noticed and was told that if a wheel is detected to have left contact with the ground as was the case here then the abs lights would flash/alternate back and forth. But the abs was still operational.

First time this happened a shop reset the lights for me but they no longer do that....they've gotten too big...it is the same shop that sells that Gizmo you mentioned.

So these lights started doing that right after the bike skidded a year ago (wheels came off the ground) before that they were normal.

Thank you.
You may get lucky if you can find someone with a GS911 and a reset will restore functionality. Not sure how the the system can determine if the wheel has left the ground unless it detects a very large difference between the front and rear wheel sensors. There are smarter people on this forum that might know of any particulars of what you are mentioning. You are still left with finding a way to reset the ABS. You can borrow or buy a GS911 or follow the steps in the thread provided. The dealer is the third option. Just be careful in braking until you do.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #9 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 10:10 pm Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
You may get lucky if you can find someone with a GS911 and a reset will restore functionality. Not sure how the the system can determine if the wheel has left the ground unless it detects a very large difference between the front and rear wheel sensors. There are smarter people on this forum that might know of any particulars of what you are mentioning. You are still left with finding a way to reset the ABS. You can borrow or buy a GS911 or follow the steps in the thread provided. The dealer is the third option. Just be careful in braking until you do.
I was operating under the assumption that I have abs based on the info I was provided before. Maybe the unit can detect when the bike is horizontal and activated the lights.

The dealer is too expensive and will not simply reset the lights, it involves at least an hour of charge at $150 maybe more.

Is there anyone in my area or close by who has the GS unit?

Thank you all.
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post #10 of 28 Old Jan 18th, 2017, 10:36 pm
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
I was operating under the assumption that I have abs based on the info I was provided before. Maybe the unit can detect when the bike is horizontal and activated the lights.

The dealer is too expensive and will not simply reset the lights, it involves at least an hour of charge at $150 maybe more.

Is there anyone in my area or close by who has the GS unit?

Thank you all.
You can search through this thread for someone close enough or willing to mail it to you for use. Read the entire thread as some who asked to be added to the list did not add themselves and repost the list so a couple from CA are in the thread but not in the big lists posted.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/bike-tal...11-owners.html

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #11 of 28 Old Jan 19th, 2017, 12:03 am Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
You can search through this thread for someone close enough or willing to mail it to you for use. Read the entire thread as some who asked to be added to the list did not add themselves and repost the list so a couple from CA are in the thread but not in the big lists posted.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/bike-tal...11-owners.html
Thanks so much, just posted on that thread asking if someone will let me borrow theirs. Would pay shipping both ways of course and anything else.
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post #12 of 28 Old Feb 4th, 2017, 5:44 am Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

To follow up on this:

Finally after giving my thumb and limps time to heat I did some work on the bike after the accident. I put it up on the center stand, I also raised it with a jack to get the front wheel off the ground. Here is what I found:

1- I ran the engine in 1st gear at around 20 MPH, I applied the rear brakes and they stopped the wheel just fine. I tried this few times with the same results.

2- I spun the front wheel by hand, there is some drag against the brake pads (it is not spinning completely free without any resistance), I was told this is normal. I applied the front brakes and the wheel did stop right away.

3- Both brake fluid reservoirs are full.

4- Most of the damage is to the right side of the bike. The crash bar is bent in to the point where it severed few wires including the spare plug. I rewired all the wires and soldered them hoping that would fix the alternating flashing ABS light, it did not.

I don't know what these wires are for (aside from the spare one with a plug at the end of it). One wire had 3 thin wires as I recall they were yellow, yellow/purple strips, the last one I think is brown. another thin wire was green and red (2 wires).

Anyone know what these wires are for ?

5- After I removed the crash bar and the bracket that it is connected to, I found that a small piece of Pot Metal had broken off (where the bracket connects with a bolt on the left side "of the right side of the bike"). This bracket only has 2 bolts with this pot metal corner where the 2nd bolt mounts broken, how do I mount the replacement bracket?

Is there a way to weld this pot metal piece ??

I can send photos.

6- I tried to remove the tubberware on the right side but the winglet on the right side (the one under the mirror) is jammed against the tubberware. Is there an easy way to remove this without taking half the bike apart ??

7- Both mirrors are broken but the housing is still intact.

8- I disconnected the battery for few minutes thinking that would reset the ABS alternating light but it did not.

Any feedback or advise on this would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much.
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post #13 of 28 Old Feb 4th, 2017, 8:56 am
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
To follow up on this:

Finally after giving my thumb and limps time to heat I did some work on the bike after the accident. I put it up on the center stand, I also raised it with a jack to get the front wheel off the ground. Here is what I found:

1- I ran the engine in 1st gear at around 20 MPH, I applied the rear brakes and they stopped the wheel just fine. I tried this few times with the same results.

2- I spun the front wheel by hand, there is some drag against the brake pads (it is not spinning completely free without any resistance), I was told this is normal. I applied the front brakes and the wheel did stop right away.

3- Both brake fluid reservoirs are full.

4- Most of the damage is to the right side of the bike. The crash bar is bent in to the point where it severed few wires including the spare plug. I rewired all the wires and soldered them hoping that would fix the alternating flashing ABS light, it did not.

I don't know what these wires are for (aside from the spare one with a plug at the end of it). One wire had 3 thin wires as I recall they were yellow, yellow/purple strips, the last one I think is brown. another thin wire was green and red (2 wires).

Anyone know what these wires are for ?

5- After I removed the crash bar and the bracket that it is connected to, I found that a small piece of Pot Metal had broken off (where the bracket connects with a bolt on the left side "of the right side of the bike"). This bracket only has 2 bolts with this pot metal corner where the 2nd bolt mounts broken, how do I mount the replacement bracket?

Is there a way to weld this pot metal piece ??

I can send photos.

6- I tried to remove the tubberware on the right side but the winglet on the right side (the one under the mirror) is jammed against the tubberware. Is there an easy way to remove this without taking half the bike apart ??

7- Both mirrors are broken but the housing is still intact.

8- I disconnected the battery for few minutes thinking that would reset the ABS alternating light but it did not.

Any feedback or advise on this would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much.
Glad you are getting back to looking at it. Pictures would definitely help in identifying the wires and pieces you are referring to. The winglet has 3 screws so if you can still get them out, just popping the bottom clip on the mirror will normally allow them to fall out easily but I don't know what damage has been done.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #14 of 28 Old Feb 4th, 2017, 9:55 pm Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Glad you are getting back to looking at it. Pictures would definitely help in identifying the wires and pieces you are referring to. The winglet has 3 screws so if you can still get them out, just popping the bottom clip on the mirror will normally allow them to fall out easily but I don't know what damage has been done.
Here are photos of the bracket on the Right side, you can see the piece of pot metal that broke off the bike where the crash bracket mounts on one side...Is this weldable ?

Also 2 of the wires that are on that side that broke off and I soldered them back together. One has a small 2 pin/wire plug (blurry photo). and the larger plug. Anyone know what these wires are for ?

I still have the alternating flashing ABS lights.

Took the bike for a short ride today, it rides fine, no vibration or anything un-usual, brakes seem to work fine. Not sure about the ABS though....is there a way to test the ABS to know if it i working?

Thanks.
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post #15 of 28 Old Feb 4th, 2017, 11:10 pm
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Here are photos of the bracket on the Right side, you can see the piece of pot metal that broke off the bike where the crash bracket mounts on one side...Is this weldable ?

Also 2 of the wires that are on that side that broke off and I soldered them back together. One has a small 2 pin/wire plug (blurry photo). and the larger plug. Anyone know what these wires are for ?

I still have the alternating flashing ABS lights.

Took the bike for a short ride today, it rides fine, no vibration or anything un-usual, brakes seem to work fine. Not sure about the ABS though....is there a way to test the ABS to know if it i working?

Thanks.
The alternate flashing of the lights means that the ABS is disabled. You can test this by applying the front brake when going straight and slowing down and then hitting the rear brake hard ( makes it easier to lock the rear wheel by applying the front some) and if it locks and skids, it isn't working. I do this occasionally as a test and if it is working, it will make a real clatter as it operates and allows the rear to continue rolling. I don't test the front as locking that up can be bad any time.

Let me think, as for the wires, the ones that run through that area on the right are the brake switch, Fuel pump, Accessory plug normally not connected, fuel sensor and possibly the speed sensor. That is all I can think of and without pulling my right side, I am not sure what that 3 wire plug is in the 3rd picture off the top of my head. I believe the rear brake light switch wire is green with possibly yellow/grey if I am reading the schematic right. JZ probably has all that memorized

I see the broken piece but can't see where it broke off in your pics. Hard to get a visual on placement in my head. It may be weldable but a lot of stuff may need to get out of the way for someone to do it.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #16 of 28 Old Feb 5th, 2017, 3:16 am Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
The alternate flashing of the lights means that the ABS is disabled. You can test this by applying the front brake when going straight and slowing down and then hitting the rear brake hard ( makes it easier to lock the rear wheel by applying the front some) and if it locks and skids, it isn't working. I do this occasionally as a test and if it is working, it will make a real clatter as it operates and allows the rear to continue rolling. I don't test the front as locking that up can be bad any time.

Let me think, as for the wires, the ones that run through that area on the right are the brake switch, Fuel pump, Accessory plug normally not connected, fuel sensor and possibly the speed sensor. That is all I can think of and without pulling my right side, I am not sure what that 3 wire plug is in the 3rd picture off the top of my head. I believe the rear brake light switch wire is green with possibly yellow/grey if I am reading the schematic right. JZ probably has all that memorized

I see the broken piece but can't see where it broke off in your pics. Hard to get a visual on placement in my head. It may be weldable but a lot of stuff may need to get out of the way for someone to do it.
The last thing I want is for this beast to skid and crash again, I am still recovering from the last time.

So if the ABS is not working, it this a matter or resetting it or maybe something is wrong with it ?

As I mentioned before the ABS alternating lights came on in the past when the bike skid and both wheels left the ground (were spinning in air).

Also the speedometer and the bike was working fine even before I soldered/connected these wires.

I will take a photo of where that pot metal piece broke off. Where do I go to get it welded ? Any weld shop can do it ?

I assume something like JP weld is not strong enough to hold it in place ?

Thank you.
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post #17 of 28 Old Feb 5th, 2017, 7:40 am
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Re: ABS Question

The broken tab for the tip over wing is part of the aluminum frame. Only a very good experienced tig welder can weld it back on. I have successfully welded the tab back on. You should disconnect the battery & all of the sensors plus remove the ECU unit before you have it welded.
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post #18 of 28 Old Feb 5th, 2017, 8:17 am
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
The last thing I want is for this beast to skid and crash again, I am still recovering from the last time.

So if the ABS is not working, it this a matter or resetting it or maybe something is wrong with it ?

As I mentioned before the ABS alternating lights came on in the past when the bike skid and both wheels left the ground (were spinning in air).

Also the speedometer and the bike was working fine even before I soldered/connected these wires.

I will take a photo of where that pot metal piece broke off. Where do I go to get it welded ? Any weld shop can do it ?

I assume something like JP weld is not strong enough to hold it in place ?

Thank you.
There are other things but I think they route up the left side like the side stand switch and the gear position sensor. I think I remember tying that plug down several times when i have pulled it apart but can't remember what it is for. We are back to needing a GS-911WiFi to see what the fault is and see if it is re-settable.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #19 of 28 Old Feb 5th, 2017, 9:10 pm Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman View Post
The broken tab for the tip over wing is part of the aluminum frame. Only a very good experienced tig welder can weld it back on. I have successfully welded the tab back on. You should disconnect the battery & all of the sensors plus remove the ECU unit before you have it welded.
Is the ECU unit behind this aluminum frame or is disconnecting the battery and removing it enough ?

And how do I know if the TIG welder is experienced or not ?

I would think removing that frame (where that broken piece goes) is best to get the best weld. But how hard is it to remove that aluminum piece/frame....how deep does it go inside the bike ?

Thanks.
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post #20 of 28 Old Feb 5th, 2017, 11:48 pm
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Is the ECU unit behind this aluminum frame or is disconnecting the battery and removing it enough ?

And how do I know if the TIG welder is experienced or not ?

I would think removing that frame (where that broken piece goes) is best to get the best weld. But how hard is it to remove that aluminum piece/frame....how deep does it go inside the bike ?

Thanks.
The ECU is under the fuel tank and the frame is one big solid piece as you can see. I don't have a picture of the right side where yours is broken but you can see the same tab on the left.
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Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #21 of 28 Old Feb 6th, 2017, 5:08 am Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
The ECU is under the fuel tank and the frame is one big solid piece as you can see. I don't have a picture of the right side where yours is broken but you can see the same tab on the left.
Thank you for the photo, very helpful.

I see the tap (where the crash bar piece mounts) on the left side in your photo, this looks like one big piece...is it attached to the fuel tank ?

It looks like it is part of the frame (if what i see in the photo is an aluminum frame), if that is the case, how can it be welded from both sides without moving everything out of the way....basically removing everything to end up with an empty frame to weld the broken piece ??
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post #22 of 28 Old Feb 6th, 2017, 5:10 am Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
The ECU is under the fuel tank and the frame is one big solid piece as you can see. I don't have a picture of the right side where yours is broken but you can see the same tab on the left.
By the way, in the photo....I assume the fuel tank sits on top of the ECU as it is shown in the photo?

And where is the air filter or did you remove it in this photo? I know it is on the Left side.

Thanks.
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post #23 of 28 Old Feb 6th, 2017, 7:50 am
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
By the way, in the photo....I assume the fuel tank sits on top of the ECU as it is shown in the photo?

And where is the air filter or did you remove it in this photo? I know it is on the Left side.

Thanks.
Yes, the fuel tank covers both the air box which holds the air filter and was removed to work on the throttle body and the ECU. Here are a couple more pictures showing the raw tank and another of the air box in front of the ECU.
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Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #24 of 28 Old Feb 6th, 2017, 7:53 am
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Re: ABS Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Thank you for the photo, very helpful.

I see the tap (where the crash bar piece mounts) on the left side in your photo, this looks like one big piece...is it attached to the fuel tank ?

It looks like it is part of the frame (if what i see in the photo is an aluminum frame), if that is the case, how can it be welded from both sides without moving everything out of the way....basically removing everything to end up with an empty frame to weld the broken piece ??
Yep, one big piece of aluminum. Not sure how you get to both sides without stripping a lot of stuff down.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #25 of 28 Old Feb 7th, 2017, 3:42 am Thread Starter
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Yes, the fuel tank covers both the air box which holds the air filter and was removed to work on the throttle body and the ECU. Here are a couple more pictures showing the raw tank and another of the air box in front of the ECU.
Ok, so the fuel tank has to be removed to get to the air filter ? The air filter is under the black plastic fuel tank?

The black plastic is the fuel tank ?

Thank you.
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post #26 of 28 Old Feb 7th, 2017, 7:58 am
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Ok, so the fuel tank has to be removed to get to the air filter ? The air filter is under the black plastic fuel tank?

The black plastic is the fuel tank ?

Thank you.
Yep, you got it.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #27 of 28 Old Feb 7th, 2017, 1:04 pm
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Ok, so the fuel tank has to be removed to get to the air filter ? The air filter is under the black plastic fuel tank?

The black plastic is the fuel tank ?

Thank you.
Crazy, but true!

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #28 of 28 Old Feb 7th, 2017, 8:44 pm
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Re: ABS Question

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Here are photos of the bracket on the Right side, you can see the piece of pot metal that broke off the bike where the crash bracket mounts on one side...Is this weldable ?

Also 2 of the wires that are on that side that broke off and I soldered them back together. One has a small 2 pin/wire plug (blurry photo). and the larger plug. Anyone know what these wires are for ?

I still have the alternating flashing ABS lights.

Took the bike for a short ride today, it rides fine, no vibration or anything un-usual, brakes seem to work fine. Not sure about the ABS though....is there a way to test the ABS to know if it i working?

Thanks.
Dave dug up the thread on his welding the broken tab.


http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/...r-bar-tab.html

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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