I like to do my own maintenance. I've found many sites for the lt maintenance manual for downloads, but everyone i find are for the 04 and older bikes, even though they say it's for all years.. There are many items missing that pertain to the 05 and newer bikes.
Anyway, i'm on a fixed income and can't afford the Actual factory manual at over 100 bucks. Can someone tell me if the Clymer manual is as good as the factory, and does it actually cover the newer LTs?
I'm sure someone in this forum has one.
Like i said, i want to make sure it fully covers the newer LTs.
I have both and am glad I do. My Clymer manual only covers to 2005. There is a later revision (-3) as I recall that may cover the newer years. I think my manual is either -1 or -2 revision.
My BMW REProm lacks wiring diagrams as apparently that is a separate CD which the dealer failed to mention. The Clymer electrical diagram is pretty good.
The Clymer is more detailed on procedures, but jumps around a lot. When I did my clutch, I was back and forth through several chapters and it was hard to keep track of what was done and where you left off (lots of Post-It notes). The BMW CD lets you print out everything you need for a given job in sequence making it easy to tick things off as you go. And this includes the re-assembly operations. None of this "assembly is reverse of disassembly" stuff that you find in other manuals, including, if memory serves, parts of the Clymer manual.
I don't mean to be rude, and I say this in all seriousness, but if you can't afford $100 for a manual then you really can't afford an LT. Mine has averaged more then $500/year in maintenance and repairs over the 9 years I have owned it. And this isn't counting wear items like tires and brakes. The cost of the manuals pales in comparison to the cost of routine maintenance and repairs such as final drive rebuild, clutch rebuild, new seals for transmission, fuel QDs, FIBIB kit, and the list goes on. The two manuals have paid for themselves many times over.
It is nice having two to cross check. I always check things like torque values in both. I recall that an early Clymer had an error in a torque value for something like the exhaust header nuts. Using the wrong value would likely have damaged an expensive part. Buying good tools, and manuals are a critical tool, is almost always good overall economy.