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post #1 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 12:36 am Thread Starter
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Question wire now for later? How big how many?

Ok it looks like with the help of Brian I am going to install some Ohlins this weekend. In the next little while I will be installing motolights, some Micro HID's and a CB. While I have this apart is there an advantage to running wires from the battery area to the front for these items? If so, what size and how many? Thanks for your thoughts.
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post #2 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 12:52 am
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Thumbs up Motolight pre-wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfan
Ok it looks like with the help of Brian I am going to install some Ohlins this weekend. In the next little while I will be installing motolights, some Micro HID's and a CB. While I have this apart is there an advantage to running wires from the battery area to the front for these items? If so, what size and how many? Thanks for your thoughts.
If you can acquire the harness from Motolight, do it. If not, don't waste your time. If they cooperate, consider buying and installing the Autoswitch and LED as well. The Motolight toggle switch is ugly IMO.

I don't have experience with the others.

Regards,
John
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post #3 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 8:24 am
 
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I agree with John. And if you do decide to prewire AutoSwitches for the MotoLights and MicroDEs, PM me. I just happen to have both types available for sale. You'd be able to operate both sets of lights with the OEM turn signal cancel button. Cool stuff!
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post #4 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 8:38 am
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Ken,

Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfan
In the next little while I will be installing motolights, some Micro HID's and a CB. While I have this apart is there an advantage to running wires from the battery area to the front for these items?
Absolutely! While the tupperware is off do as much as you can.



Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfan
If so, what size and how many? Thanks for your thoughts.
Good question. Figure what you need (including future upgrades) and then add a couple more, or, whatever you have room for if you are limited by space.
Sizes? My favorites: 14ga. for lights (pr.) and 18ga. for everything else (I-pod, GPS,Radar Detector, etc.)

You will get a lot of opinions on your questions. Just do what works for you.

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post #5 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 8:45 am
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I'd just put a fuse box up front. That way you can do whatever your leetle heart desires.



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post #6 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 8:51 am
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yes~

I bought a "tralier" wiring set.. both "vehicle" and "trailer" ends. There are 4 leads on the one I chose. I ran it from the battery area to the front of the bike coming up through the "nose cone" slots where the windshield support arms move, routing near the center of the bike. I now have the "connector" under the BMR shelf and when i want to remove things, I just disconnect the plug. With the 4 conductors, I have my "ground" plus 3 other 'circuits' I can control.

I ran the "power" side to a FUSE then to a relay which is actuated by the seat heater circuit.. so when the bike is off or cranking, the relay is disengaged, similar to a car.

The relay minimizes chances for "spikes" as the bike starts and you can put a "noise" eliminator on the power to the relay so all your power on the circuit is "clean"...

14 GA Automotive wire should be fine... and if you can get a Marine Grade, that would handle "wear" of a MC environment a little better.

Happy Farkling!

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post #7 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 9:35 am Thread Starter
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So what is so special about the rear of the bike to not bother if I don't get the harness (which doesn't show up until monday darn it)? If I move power and switches and fuses to the front someplace more accessible am I ok? Sorry for my naivety. Oh yea and where might this more accessible place be?
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post #8 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 10:00 am
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do the fuse box up front...

12 ga wires to the fuse box and then farkle away.



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post #9 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 11:22 am
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you still have to run the control wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaffyK
12 ga wires to the fuse box and then farkle away.
If you can't get the lighting harnesses, buy autoswitch (wire it) and run output to your newly accessable fuse box. Then you won't have to remove the cowling again.

Regards,
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post #10 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 12:14 pm
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One more vote for the front fuse box.
I ran 6 mm2 (9 gauge) feed cable to the front fuse box (12 mini fuses) and one multi wire cable (20 x 0,5 mm2 or 18 gauge) from front to rear for activating all kinds of relays in the rear of the bike.

This winter's project (I hope) is to make proper documentation of all the half a mile of extra cables and 16 relays and while I am at it redo and reroute all the wiring and color code them properly. There is always the problem in step-by-step farklezing that the you get the rat's nest effect no matter how carefully you try to plan...

Regards
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Ari "the Farkle-Freak-Finn" Ignatius

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2004 ('05) LT, Dark Graphite, "Sunset Cruiser II"

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post #11 of 18 Old Nov 4th, 2006, 1:28 pm
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....and the Painless Fuse Box on the GT





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post #12 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 11:52 am
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Ari,

Are those wire labels that are tied to all your wires? Don't they take up a lot of extra room? Have you tried a write-and-wrap label like this?

Also - where did you get your front fuse box for? Sure would be nice to have a nice, watertight fuse box with handy mounting points, strain reliefs/grommets for wire exit points, bus bars, etc.

Dave

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post #13 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 1:26 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schweintechnik
Ari,

Are those wire labels that are tied to all your wires? Don't they take up a lot of extra room? Have you tried a write-and-wrap label like this?

Also - where did you get your front fuse box for? Sure would be nice to have a nice, watertight fuse box with handy mounting points, strain reliefs/grommets for wire exit points, bus bars, etc.

Dave
I'm not sure what wire lables you of which you speak. There are some small zip ties. That's a Painless fuse box, it's real watertight, but if you notice, the ground bus is seperate and attached under the ABS unit.



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post #14 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 2:10 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
I'm not sure what wire lables you of which you speak. There are some small zip ties. That's a Painless fuse box, it's real watertight, but if you notice, the ground bus is seperate and attached under the ABS unit.
Grif - I was talking about Ari's setup. Looks like he's got tags tied to his wires.

Never heard of a Painless fuse box - I'll have to Google it.

Dave

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post #15 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 2:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schweintechnik
Ari,

Are those wire labels that are tied to all your wires? Don't they take up a lot of extra room? Have you tried a write-and-wrap label like this?

Also - where did you get your front fuse box for? Sure would be nice to have a nice, watertight fuse box with handy mounting points, strain reliefs/grommets for wire exit points, bus bars, etc.

Dave
Hi Dave & Grif,

the wire labels that I have used are not really intended for this kind of use, I just happened to have acccess to these. These are ment coding the cables inside industrial electric cabinets. However, I like them as I can write the cable name / purpose with real text and still I can read it if I need to peek in under the nose cone. You are right though, they are not very esthetic...

The fuse box that I have used is from our local "men's supermarket" called BILTEMA. They have these fuse boxes (for mini fuses) in different lengths, for 4, 6, 8, or 10 fuses. This is not the famous Painless. In fact using the Biltema blocks for our purposes is a bit of a pain... Each fuse has its individual "infeed / outfeed". Therefore I had to "shortcut" the input side by soldering a copper wire over the terminals and now I can feed the fuse block with one heavy duty cable. I Dremeled off the all the other infeed terminals but one.

The attched pics show how I did the modification. These fuse boxes have worked fine. One picture shows the two smaller ones under the seat. One six and one four fuses block. (The four fuse block is for unswitched items.) As you see the under seat compartment is pretty crowded so I really like these compact size fuse blocks.

Regards
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Ari "the Farkle-Freak-Finn" Ignatius

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post #16 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 3:15 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pozo_izquierdo
The fuse box that I have used is from our local "men's supermarket" called BILTEMA. They have these fuse boxes (for mini fuses) in different lengths, for 4, 6, 8, or 10 fuses.
Amazing, probably while you were typing this, I had just stumbled across the exact same fuse block here at Waytec, Inc. - I assume they are a distributor. Ari, you might want to look at item #46077, a watertight fuse block for your re-wiring project this winter. Found product info at the manufacturers site here (look at RTMR catalog).

Also, we use a special type of flat multi-conductor cable called festooning cable for some of the equipment here at H-D. Might be just the ticket for someone looking to squeeze many 14 or 16 ga wires into a tight spot; also looks really cool. Found online here.

Dave

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post #17 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 4:38 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schweintechnik
Ari,

"... Have you tried a write-and-wrap label like this?..."

Dave
Radio Shack has a similar labeling system. I use it on my computer and phone wires at home. I don't know if it is water tight or not, as I haven't had any rain inside the house...(yet)

Buck W.
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post #18 of 18 Old Nov 8th, 2006, 5:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck
Radio Shack has a similar labeling system. I use it on my computer and phone wires at home. I don't know if it is water tight or not, as I haven't had any rain inside the house...(yet)
Remember Buck, you live in San Diego like me. What is rain?

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