Windshield position - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 23 Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 11:16 am Thread Starter
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Windshield position

As many of you have bought aftermarket windshields I have a question regarding the Cee Bailey sizing. First off this is just for those of you who look over your windshield. I like to look 1-1/2 inches above.

Are you finding the best protection, buffeting reduction with a taller shield run at a lower position, or a shorter shield run at a higher position. I hope this makes sense.

Thanks
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post #2 of 23 Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 11:29 am
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I have the Cee Bailey #2-2 and find that I usually adjust the height so that the top is just below my sightline when on the highway. This way the buffeting is minimized and I can still look over the windshield. I run it a little lower in town.

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post #3 of 23 Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 12:05 pm Thread Starter
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Ok, what I am looking for is "just below your sight-line" with winshield in the up position or the down position?

The geometry (not just height) of the windshield changes dramatically from the low position to the high position and MAY have more to do with the wind flow than the height itself. I am trying to figure out which "position" works best, and from there can buy a shield of the correct height for the correct position.

Thanks to all who may have some insights.
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post #4 of 23 Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 12:48 pm
 
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I got a #2-2 thanks to many posts about aftermarket windshields. I never ride with the shield at intermediate positions - either full up or full down. When down, I can see over the shield by what feels like 1-3". When up, I'm looking through it with the top at least 1-3" above my eye level. I'm 6'0" with 33 inseam (so shorter torso I suppose).

When down, the shield makes for great protection, albeit not as great as when raised. I ride with it down for everywhere except the expressway, then up she goes and the air pocket and wind noice are reduced.

I put the best picture I could find of my screen. The OEM Tall shield is big, but ineffective, since it's totally flat. When down, that one was worthless, and I found even city roads at 30mph I had it raised. The CB #2 has curvature unlike the OEM. Even when down, the air still flows above my faceshield, but not quite over the entire helmet. It deflects air UP thanks to the curvature, or "lip" as some refer to it as.

I hope that helps with the question. I understood it the same way astuber did. Again, it clears my eye level plenty when up, and is completely out of view when down.
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post #5 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 8:53 am
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Cee Bailey #2 -3 with wings. It's the recurve on the top of the screen that moves the air up. But I always run with it full down and look several inches over the top............next screen will be -4 as I could always raise it to move air.

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post #6 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 9:14 am
 
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If you like to look over most of the time like I do, you need to get the -4 to get the same effect as the stock shield. The CB shield doesn't lean back as much as the BMW, if you get the same hieght shield you won't see over it.
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post #7 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 10:11 am
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windshield

I am 5'9", with a 30" inseam, and I bought the #2-2 Cee Bailey. I wished I had bought the -3 or -4 (the four would have probably been better). I can't quite see over the windshield when it is all the way down, and I like to ride that way. Of course here in Indiana it is cold in the spring, fall, and winter, and I do ride as often in all seasons as I can--so the -2 works pretty well in colder weather. Just m .02. jrlakin
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post #8 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 10:26 am Thread Starter
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Thanks, I am not sure that height is the issue, but where in the range of position (up or down) that the shield is placed for one to see over. For example I could get a short screen and have it all the way up to just see over, or buy a tall screen and have it all the way down to see over. My questions is which of these is better for wind protection and noise. My gut tells me that the all the way up position is not very aerodynamic and would cause a great deal of negative pressure, so I would expect a tall screen on the lowest position possible to see over would be the best, but I just don't know. It sounds like a local dealer may have some to try. If that is the case I will do an extensive test and get back to you all.
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post #9 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 11:51 am
 
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If you get a Cee Bailey's the same length as the BMW short, you will not see over it in the lowest position. Cee Bailey -4 gives you about the same height as a BMW short because the angle is different. You will want to look over a Cee Bailey most of the time because of the distortion. After my Cee Bailey (which I liked) got scratched up I switched to the V- Technic V Stream, it is much clearer to look through. I do wish it was about 2" shorter to see over it better. Bottom line is the CB-4 is better for looking over & the V-Stream is better for looking through.
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post #10 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 12:13 pm
 
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I had a Cee Bailey's on my LT (in fact, CB uses my bike on their site ), and I have a CB on my new GT. Because these Beemers have adjustable shields, I think it's important to get the most usable range for your buck. My LT had a #2-2". But I'm a tall guy that lives in the north. If I had to do it all over again, I probably would've order a slightly shorter shield...a #2-3" or -4" most likely.

What you really need to do is to find someone in your area that has the shield you want and try it out to know for sure. I loaned member 'hschisler' my CB shield for a week which enabled him to order his new shield with confidence. Hopefully, you can find someone as nice as me in your area. (oh, i kill me...)
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post #11 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 12:17 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
I had a Cee Bailey's on my LT (in fact, CB uses my bike on their site ), and I have a CB on my new GT. Because these Beemers have adjustable shields, I think it's important to get the most usable range for your buck. My LT had a #2-2". But I'm a tall guy that lives in the north. If I had to do it all over again, I probably would've order a slightly shorter shield...a #2-3" or -4" most likely.

What you really need to do is to find someone in your area that has the shield you want and try it out to know for sure. I loaned member 'hschisler' my CB shield for a week which enabled him to order his new shield with confidence. Hopefully, you can find someone as nice as me in your area. (oh, i kill me...)
Aren't you just the nicest guy Joe, despite what everyone else says? And welcome back!

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post #12 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 12:23 pm
 
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Originally Posted by zippy_gg
Aren't you just the nicest guy Joe, despite what everyone else says? And welcome back!
Not "the nicest"...but darn close!

And thanks...good to be back. I had a lot of people telling me that I needed to come back and rattle some cages, so here I is!
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post #13 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 1:36 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
(in fact, CB uses my bike on their site )
Nah, they're using Bill's bike.

Mine is a CB#2 -2". I like it fine two up and raised fully, but when solo I wish it was just a tad shorter. I may just cut the Euro (flat) shape into the top edge which should make it about perfect solo or two-up.

Ken
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post #14 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 1:43 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Mine is a CB#2 -2". I like it fine two up and raised fully, but when solo I wish it was just a tad shorter. I may just cut the Euro (flat) shape into the top edge which should make it about perfect solo or two-up.
You may want to consider cutting an inch from the bottom and redrilling the holes. That way you get the shield a little lower without loosing the laminar lip portion of the #2. Food for thought.
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post #15 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 1:48 pm
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Originally Posted by messenger13
You may want to consider cutting an inch from the bottom and redrilling the holes. That way you get the shield a little lower without loosing the laminar lip portion of the #2. Food for thought.
I had thought about that, but it's really only the very center that's just barely in my way. The sides are fine. So I figured if I just take a little off the center it should work better for me, but still maintain passenger protection.

Or I could just get a +4 +3 like yours, and a new bike to go under it.

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post #16 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 2:01 pm
 
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Originally Posted by meese
Or I could just get a +4 +3 like yours, and a new bike to go under it.
The best $20K farkle you can buy for an LT IS a new GT.
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post #17 of 23 Old Oct 24th, 2006, 2:58 pm
 
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I have a CB #2 -3 on my LT. I'm 6' 1" with a 33" inseam. I like to look over the top by +/- 6" with just a teeny breeze in my face but not enough to make me squint. This windshield does it well when raised about 3" up.

For some reason if I raise the windshield to its full heighth, turbulence increases as well as negative pressure against my back. Full down is great below 45 mph. It's the laminar flow over the concave surface of the shield on the CB. I love this windshield!
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post #18 of 23 Old Nov 2nd, 2006, 9:15 am
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Windshield

I just purchased a 2000 LT Canyon Red and love it, but today I noticed the shield is not moving much maybe a half inc or so is this normal? Or should it move more than that? It has the European type shield on it , but it seems as if the range of movement should be more...... Any suggestions? Could the motor be worn or burned out?
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post #19 of 23 Old Nov 2nd, 2006, 11:11 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darryldaggs
I just purchased a 2000 LT Canyon Red and love it, but today I noticed the shield is not moving much maybe a half inc or so is this normal? Or should it move more than that? It has the European type shield on it , but it seems as if the range of movement should be more...... Any suggestions? Could the motor be worn or burned out?
You need to lubricate the pivot joints on the mechanism. Just remove the windshield and remove the top dash cowling, (not forgetting the screw behind the dash lamp). Wipe clean the pivot joints down at the motor axle and the ones higher up in the top base of the parallelogram system. Then give it some good waterproof grease while moving the shield up and down. It can take quite a few acctuations before the joints get fully lubricated.

Some people have recommended "dry" lubricants such as "Glide Rite" or "Dry Slide", but good ol' boat trailer axle grease worked for me.

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post #20 of 23 Old Nov 2nd, 2006, 12:11 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfan
As many of you have bought aftermarket windshields I have a question regarding the Cee Bailey sizing. First off this is just for those of you who look over your windshield. I like to look 1-1/2 inches above.

Are you finding the best protection, buffeting reduction with a taller shield run at a lower position, or a shorter shield run at a higher position. I hope this makes sense.

Thanks
Ken -

I noted from your post that you live in wa state? I heard that Southsound BMW is designated as some sort of CB special center where you can have various shields temporarily installed and test ride them. You might give them a call to pose your question and perhaps try different shields until you find the right combination.

Denny
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post #21 of 23 Old Nov 2nd, 2006, 1:57 pm
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Windshield movement

Thanks a lot TKramer I will try that tomorrow.
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post #22 of 23 Old Nov 6th, 2006, 8:07 am
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Windshield movement

Well lubed all ivot points and still not moving well at all , I have to help. Is there anything else I can do or should I just take it to a BMW dealer and let them check it out? Also does anyone know the proper idle RPM My bike is idling at under 1000rpm.
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post #23 of 23 Old Nov 6th, 2006, 9:33 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darryldaggs
Well lubed all ivot points and still not moving well at all , I have to help. Is there anything else I can do or should I just take it to a BMW dealer and let them check it out? Also does anyone know the proper idle RPM My bike is idling at under 1000rpm.
Darryl - '99 book sez idle rpms is 1,050.
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