I'm putting on a new rear rotor and pads on my 2009 K1200LT any thing special to break in rotor and Pads??

Jim

You must have a lot of miles on your bike to need a rear rotor. Just curious how many miles does it take to wear one down?

The miles are 13,000 very low. Problem is the spacers are worn out and it has the cow bell noise. Every bump in the road causes a clunk or rattle like something is loose. Drives me nuts.
Hope the new rotor fixes the problem it's a after market rotor that most use in stead of factory part.

Jim

Just ride the thing. That'll break them in just fine.


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Try not to lock the brakes up for the first couple of rides. After that your good.

What they said and treat it like you just put on new tires and don't ride aggressively for the first 100 miles or so.

I did a new EBC rotor and carbon pads recently. I was amazed at just how poor the rear brakes were till they bedded in. Be aware that you will not be able to stop well with just the rear until they bed in properly. Ride easy and be aware of your stopping distance.

I just bought a EBC rotor. It gives a synopsis of how it's made of billet. And tells about the warranty. And because of the warranty. It says under no circumstances are you to ever use sintered or semi sintered pads or warranty is void. Organic? Thats all?

There was a recall on the post 2005 models to replace the original ten bolt rear rotor with a 5 bolt rotor. My did the cow bell and once replaced under warrantty it never did it again. Also the BMW manual says sintered for stock the front rotar and organic for the back stock rotor.

I have read a number of theories on brake pad/new rotor break-in ranging from start with very gentle braking and gradually work towards harder stops to what is recommended here which is to make several hard stops to get things really hot and then let them cool.

I have not yet tried this technique, but I tend to think this is the way to go. I have used the gentle technique several times and my brakes almost always develop some pulsing. I plan to try this technique when I replace my front brake pads.

My front LT brakes pulse annoyingly now, but I have not found a way to stop it. The pads aren't even half worn after 54,000 miles. I have nearly worn out the second set of rear pads and they don't pulse so I think the idea that not using the brakes hard enough causes pulsing has some merit. My LT appears to work the rear brake about 8X harder than either front brake given the wear rate different.

My rear brake clearly gets worked much harder than the fronts, even though I tend to stop with the front only or with front and light application of rear. BMW seems to have biased the brake system too heavily towards the rear brake. I wish there was a way to use the fronts more heavily and not have the rear come on as hard, but even using just the front brake along seems to put too much bias on the rear through the integrated system.

What Causes Brake Pulsation? | Power Stop

The problem with bedding in pads on the LT (2001 and up) is that you cannot just apply rear brake due to the linked system so you never get the rear rotor up to temp to transfer the material to the rotor.


Interesting note on the EBC rotor not allowing sintered pads. I have gone through two stock rotors (only the first one was new with the bike) and always used factor pads. When the second one wore out I replaced it with a used EBC rotor and have been running EBC sintered pads. So far there has been very little wear to the EBC rotor. Total Miles 99,000 and about 30,000 on the EBC.

I'm sooo dam confused. Everything i've read about brake pads say the best pads are the EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads. Now i'm hearing from this post that only Carbon (organic) pads should be used with the new rotor from EBC. What the hell.. Does this also apply to the stock rotor.. I recently replaced my worn pads on my 06, and the low speed squeal (which i never had before) is driving me nuts let alone turning heads. Should i try the Carbon pads on the bike and see if that works. I've tried the stop squeal gunk. didn't work.. next i'll try the teflon stick on tape. if that doesn't work, i was going to plop down the money for a new rotor, and see if that works, but now i'm thinking i'll have to replace my brand new centered double HH pads to carbon.. More money. Someone PLEASE clear the confusion.

The linked brake system relies on the organic rear pad set.
Most of the time brake pulsing is due to binding agents transferred to the disk. It can be washed and polished, brake cleaner spray and vigorous work over with scotch-brite pad.
Breaking in new pads, like mentioned above work them in like tires, the nasty thing to do is sit at a stop after they have gotten hot and then those pesky binding agents deposit on the disc causing some pulsing. So I apply when riding and release before stopping many times in a half hours ride or so. No problems.

from the EBC manual (found online a while back)