Does anyone happen to have a good used abs module for a 2000 K1200LT they'd like to sell? Had mine rebuilt last year and have only put about 200 miles on it and it has failed again. Rebuilding company is refunding my money to honor their 5 year warantee

Did you verify the failure code? It can be caused by a weak battery or failed wheel sensor.

Could be a bad sensor too.

Definitely a bad piston.

I don't know what makes the piston "bad" but if the piston is worn out from contaminants in the brake fluid, maybe you could take the mechanical parts of the pump to a local machine shop and have them polish the bore of the cylinder(s) and make you a new piston? ...that might be cheaper than buying a replacement pump... or taking a chance on a used pump.

Just a random thought... hope you find it helpful.

-John

The stuck piston fault is fairly easy to fix. Here is the procedure .

a stuck piston did not happen to be my issue. The piston seal was bad and leaking fluid into/inside the the unit instead of applying pressure to the wheel cylinders. From what I understand there is no seal kit available. What as done in the rebuild (by Module Masters) was to install a set of used seals. After an $800 repair bill from the dealer to diagnose/remove/reinstall my abs unit I was not able to put another 200 miles on the bike before the abs wig wag lights come on again. Module Masters did offer to try the repair again, but, would not provide the warrantee any more. They told me mine was the first time they saw this. They also offered to refund the rebuild price, which I ended up doing. After purchasing another unit (used) and another $400 labor charge, that unit was also bad. At the current trade in value of $2500 for a fully functional bike, to which my dealer stated he would not take a k1200lt regardless of condition (because of warrantee issues) I am left with 2 choices. Part the bike out with 18k miles, or bypass/remove the abs unit. Does anyone know of a brake line union to connect the two different size male fittings after disconnecting the lines from the controller? This seams like it would be the easiest way to bypass the unit. Maybe someone has dimensions/sizes of custom lines from the master to the wheel cylinders? Again the bike is a 2000.

You still have normal brakes...Why not just take out the ABS lights and ride with normal brakes

Bikes and modern cars sometimes have done their duty after 15 years. Parts are not available or too expensive to justify their use. If you insist on using the bike (rather than parting it out) you could disable the lamps. I suggest taking a deep breath and thinking about a new bike (newer as the case may be) and move on from your old friend. From a safety standpoint a newer bike certainly would be a good thing.

I thought I read here from John Z that you could un-plug the ABSII plug and disable the system. That would be the same plug that has pin-21 in it for the long-version of ABS reset without a GS911.

IF that is correct, are there any side effects? Other than possibly wrapping the connector in a plastic bag and making it water tight. Any thoughts.

ABSII wig-wag failure.. Update 8/1/16;
I have a GS911, Fault says "PLUNGER TEST FAULT" I replaced my battery with a new Odyssey PC680, I have replaced the brake lines and bled the system multiple times. My brake pressure is great and the brakes are solid. Voltage is perfect... save all the "what ifs" I reset the fault and the roll away test passes. I ride 80-100 miles and it faults again!

All is correct except a 16 years old part that is more expensive to maintain than it is worth!

Removing the dash lights won't stop the relay that keeps toggling from running anytime the bike is being used. I want to rip the entire system out and that's my goal. More than frustrated!

I'm leaving on a 3000 mile ride to Canada this week and would rather not have the wig-wag fault relay running the entire trip. AHHHHH...

My wig-wag has been flashing for 3 years now on my 2000 LT. I put electrical tape over the 2 lights & can only see a little bit of light at night blinking.

Yea Dave, I hear you. I did the tape also between resets (2 pieces because I ride to work at 4am, always dark).

I think with the right adapters, the pump could be completely removed and brake lines could be routed directly to the calibers front and rear.

I'm thinking the exact same thing. My question is, if I'm running brake fluid directly from the reservoirs to the calipers, do I still have safe braking? Or is it akin to the dreaded residual braking?

If squeezing tighter (or stomping harder) on the brakes will still haul the big girl down from speed, then I'm not worried at all about an ABS/Servo failure (well, except for the trip I'm on at the time, of course). If that isn't the case, then I'll need to invest in a spare pump, and pronto!



Mark

In your case the unit must be bypassed if you want full braking. There is not enough residual when the servos crap out.

Had the pleasure of talking with Saddleman last night, and he explained to me how he just plugged his unit up, and ran straight lines to the brakes (like conventional motorcycle brakes) Disconnected the proper wires and a couple of relays, and the system has worked properly for him. No lights and speedo works perfectly. I'm not having issues, but good to know that there is a simple way to bypass the system. Give him a shout if you are having issues. Very informative.

I have my gas tank removed. Where exactly is the wig wag relay I can pull out to stop the lights? A new bike will just have to wait a little longer. Just got the new truck I needed for work.

Think I found it. Blueish green relay on top left? All the other relays were black.

It is #2 in the picture.

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So I got my brake lines figured out (30 bucks and a trip to NAPA), pulled the relay (#2 in the above picture), let gravity bleed my bakes, and started to put things back together. Before getting to far, I wanted to test what was functioning and what might not be. Speedo "check", brake lights "check"... in fact... everything seemed to be working, including the right abs idiot light. My understanding was pulling the relay would disable the lights. What am I missing? I'm trying not to destroy anything (cut wires) just in case the the next owner feels the need to put everything back...for whatever reason.

Pulling the relay only disables one light bulb. You have to remove the other light bulb.

OK Thanks