shift linkage adjusting - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Oct 15th, 2006, 2:31 pm Thread Starter
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shift linkage adjusting

Hi.

Can anyone guide me through the correct adjustment procedure for the shift linkage? My BMW dealer adjusted my shift linkage, but screwed it up. I can get to first gear but no other gears. Since I just moved to Sioux Falls, SD I can't take it back to the dealer (180 miles in first gear is a bit much!) I was told by the dealer that the distance between the two lock nuts is 36mm. However, mine is adjusted to about 2.25 inches. So, I assume I'll have to disconnect the ball end and thread some rod into it. However, I'm not sure they know what they're talking about.

Thanks much!!!!

Reid

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post #2 of 13 Old Oct 15th, 2006, 4:06 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid
Hi.

Can anyone guide me through the correct adjustment procedure for the shift linkage? My BMW dealer adjusted my shift linkage, but screwed it up. I can get to first gear but no other gears. Since I just moved to Sioux Falls, SD I can't take it back to the dealer (180 miles in first gear is a bit much!) I was told by the dealer that the distance between the two lock nuts is 36mm. However, mine is adjusted to about 2.25 inches. So, I assume I'll have to disconnect the ball end and thread some rod into it. However, I'm not sure they know what they're talking about.

Thanks much!!!!

Reid
Actually you don't have to disconnect the ball end. Just remove the foot rest plate, move it around so you can reach the adjusting nuts behind it and try different settings, put the foot rest plate back on and test, repeat until you are satisfied with the results. Then you can tighten everything back into place. It worked for me!

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post #3 of 13 Old Oct 15th, 2006, 4:51 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg
Actually you don't have to disconnect the ball end. Just remove the foot rest plate, move it around so you can reach the adjusting nuts behind it and try different settings, put the foot rest plate back on and test, repeat until you are satisfied with the results. Then you can tighten everything back into place. It worked for me!
That's what I did when the rod broke, but now I'm told there's too much rod between the locknuts, so I believe I need to shorten that distance which requires removing the ball end I think!

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post #4 of 13 Old Oct 15th, 2006, 5:17 pm
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Not sure if this may help, but as I have both linkages in my tool box as spares I measured. Both original as supplied :
Long one. 112.92mm end of ball to end of ball. 38.10mm between lock nuts.
Short one. 67.07mm overall, but one ball has a slight flat on the end of the ball. 12.52mm between the lock nut and the round moulding on the ball. HTH

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post #5 of 13 Old Oct 15th, 2006, 8:53 pm
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Reid,
Mine are set: as measured, locknut face to locknut face on the long rod = 38mm
as measured, locknut face to (no locknut) short rod = 14mm

Hope this helps. My 99 shifts perfectly. And, to clarify you have 38 mm of threads showing and 14 mm of threads showing.

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post #6 of 13 Old Oct 15th, 2006, 9:15 pm
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I never measured mine...

I just tried different settings until I was satisfied.
I also replaced my linkage with a kit from Philjohn, a member on this forum, on both my '99 after it broke and on my '03 as a preemptive strike. Very smooth!

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post #7 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 9:15 am Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot, everyone. The confirmation of measurements is very helpful. I think I know what I need to do.

Reid

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post #8 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 9:57 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg
Actually you don't have to disconnect the ball end. Just remove the foot rest plate, move it around so you can reach the adjusting nuts behind it and try different settings, put the foot rest plate back on and test, repeat until you are satisfied with the results. Then you can tighten everything back into place. It worked for me!
You do have to disconnect one ball end, or you cannot make any adjustment. The nuts just lock the setting in place, but at least one ball end has to be turned in or out to adjust the length.

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post #9 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 11:09 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
You do have to disconnect one ball end, or you cannot make any adjustment. The nuts just lock the setting in place, but at least one ball end has to be turned in or out to adjust the length.
Dave is correct and additionally, if you want the shifter to a higher position for comfort you 'COULD' file the chrome plate that the shifter bar was hitting after they improperly adjusted it. My dealer said "you can't adjust the shifter height" well I did and experienced your adventure and now can adjust em in 5 minutes FLAT!

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post #10 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 11:46 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
You do have to disconnect one ball end, or you cannot make any adjustment. The nuts just lock the setting in place, but at least one ball end has to be turned in or out to adjust the length.
I tried... and tried... to be right all the time, but alas it ain't so. Dave you are absolutely correct.

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post #11 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 1:14 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourdog
Reid,
Mine are set: as measured, locknut face to locknut face on the long rod = 38mm
as measured, locknut face to (no locknut) short rod = 14mm

Hope this helps. My 99 shifts perfectly. And, to clarify you have 38 mm of threads showing and 14 mm of threads showing.
I measured between the centers of the ball ends on mine. Probably the short shaft - the one that connects directly to the pedal shifter. Factory was 3.75". I adjusted out to 3.875" when I had the Suburban Machinery peg extenders on. The only measurement that counts is the distance between the centers, and only then on the same bike. All the others will vary depending on the vendor of the components and their tolerances and how the engine/trans was placed in relation to the foot pedal. The locknut faces, ends of the ball ends etc are not functional surfaces and will vary, not significantly, but they will vary from bike to bike. (Just the annoying engineer in me coming out.)

Dan
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post #12 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 1:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
I measured between the centers of the ball ends on mine. Probably the short shaft - the one that connects directly to the pedal shifter. Factory was 3.75". I adjusted out to 3.875" when I had the Suburban Machinery peg extenders on. The only measurement that counts is the distance between the centers, and only then on the same bike. All the others will vary depending on the vendor of the components and their tolerances and how the engine/trans was placed in relation to the foot pedal. The locknut faces, ends of the ball ends etc are not functional surfaces and will vary, not significantly, but they will vary from bike to bike. (Just the annoying engineer in me coming out.)
The center distance affects where the shift lever is positioned, and can easily be adjusted up or down to the rider's preference. I have adjusted at least three other riders gear shift levers, plus my own. This has no affect on the transmission shifting though, unless you can adjust the lever so far that it hits something, then you will not get full throw on the transmission lever.

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post #13 of 13 Old Oct 16th, 2006, 2:11 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
The center distance affects where the shift lever is positioned, and can easily be adjusted up or down to the rider's preference. I have adjusted at least three other riders gear shift levers, plus my own. This has no affect on the transmission shifting though, unless you can adjust the lever so far that it hits something, then you will not get full throw on the transmission lever.
Really just commenting on the measurement exchange. Can't see how it would effect shifting either other than positioning the pedal too high or too low for the shifter to grab the next gear like you are saying. It's the only part of the bike I've dug into, looking forward to the 12K to learn more.

Dan
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