Brake lines question. - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 3:07 am Thread Starter
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Brake lines question.

Hello Everyone,

I have a 1999 K1200LT.

The Left front side brake line. On the Front wheel by the Left side caliber is leaking. And of course there is no braking power left aside from little in the rear brakes.

It looks like a short rubber hose.

First, is there a way to repair this?

Second: Where is the best place to buy a metal braided hose replacement ? Least expensive but good quality would be nice. I assume the other side (on the Right side of front wheel is the same).?

This looks easy enough to replace but maybe someone has an input or ideas on this.?

Thank you so much for your help.
AJ
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post #2 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 3:21 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

On such an old LT, all of them should be replaced at the same time with Spieglers as when one goes the rest are about to go shortly. Doing them all at once, you also minimize the times you need to bleed the systems. Just do a Google search to find vendors.

Dave Beck
'16 K1600GTLE
'07 K1200LT (sold 9/24/16)
'74 Suzuki GT750L (long, long gone)


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post #3 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 3:36 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by JNW003 View Post
On such an old LT, all of them should be replaced at the same time with Spieglers as when one goes the rest are about to go shortly. Doing them all at once, you also minimize the times you need to bleed the systems. Just do a Google search to find vendors.
The bike has about 34k miles only. I don't understand why these should go out so soon on such a high end bike.
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post #4 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 5:59 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

It's the age of the bike but you really should replace them all The bleeding of the system is quite time consuming
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post #5 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 7:08 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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It's the age of the bike but you really should replace them all The bleeding of the system is quite time consuming
Is bleeding this bike involves more than opening the nipples on the front (near the front calibers) and letting the air out?

Is the rear brake separate from the front one?

Thank you.
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post #6 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 9:11 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Is bleeding this bike involves more than opening the nipples on the front (near the front calibers) and letting the air out?

Is the rear brake separate from the front one?

Thank you.
Almost everything you will need to change out the lines and bleed the brakes is on this Forum or Illinois BMW Riders - BMW Motorrad Club Northern Illinois - More than just a riders club

There are number of DIY vidoes on this subject at the above website.

It is not a simple job to bleed the system and change the lines but it is doable for an average wrencher like myself with help from the videos and Forum.

David W

2013 F800GT - sold
2005 K1200LT
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post #7 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 10:16 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
The bike has about 34k miles only. I don't understand why these should go out so soon on such a high end bike.
These OEM lines are a known issue on all LT bikes. They degrade and then will spring a leak or burst far sooner than any brake line should and they do it usually at a very inopportune time like when you really need to stop and then you can't. It is a safety issue so you really should upgrade them to Spieglers or if you want to, you can replace them all with stock again and get another maybe 10 years but the key words are REPLACE and ALL and ASAP. Most opt for Spiegler stainless braided lines and there is a kit with everything you need. The mother ship realized the issue and changed the type of lines on other models but the LT never got that upgrade so all of them have the less than desired rubber lines OEM.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #8 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 1:33 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Hello Everyone,

I have a 1999 K1200LT.

The Left front side brake line. On the Front wheel by the Left side caliber is leaking. And of course there is no braking power left aside from little in the rear brakes.

It looks like a short rubber hose.

First, is there a way to repair this?

Second: Where is the best place to buy a metal braided hose replacement ? Least expensive but good quality would be nice. I assume the other side (on the Right side of front wheel is the same).?

This looks easy enough to replace but maybe someone has an input or ideas on this.?

Thank you so much for your help.
AJ
I recently replaced my OEM lines with Spieglers ... before one burst. Replacing the lines was fairly straightforward, but I had my LT stripped down for a clutch job which helped a lot. I agree with others who say to bite the bullet and replace them all.

Bleeding the LT brakes is tedious. On my LT, there are 10 bleed ports and 12 bleed cycles as two of the ABS ports must be bled twice. Working alone, this took me 4 hours and I still don't have all the air out.

I think the wheel circuits are OK as the ABS pump really moves the fluid and purges things quickly and thoroughly. It is the control circuits that are the pain.

My front went fairly well, but still feels a little soft. I think because my bike is still on the lift and I couldn't turn the bars full lock left to properly orient the master cylinder.

The rear is a major pain. I spent close to 30 minutes getting out the air between reservoir and master cylinder. I spent another 45+ minutes going through the 4 cycle bleed between master cylinder and ABS. I could not get good flow out of any of the 3 ports for the rear. Have an air lock somewhere. Finally gave up and went to the othe 3 circuits where I had good success.

I will make another run at the rear control when I get back from a trip. I am hoping the 5 days of sitting will let some of the air naturally rise up from the rear master cylinder.

So, bite the bullet and Do them all at once and suffer the bleed cycle just one time.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #9 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 1:43 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

His 99' has the non-integrated brakes, Correct? So it should be easier and more direct than the integrated brakes.
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post #10 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 1:48 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
I recently replaced my OEM lines with Spieglers ... before one burst. Replacing the lines was fairly straightforward, but I had my LT stripped down for a clutch job which helped a lot. I agree with others who say to bite the bullet and replace them all.

Bleeding the LT brakes is tedious. On my LT, there are 10 bleed ports and 12 bleed cycles as two of the ABS ports must be bled twice. Working alone, this took me 4 hours and I still don't have all the air out.

I think the wheel circuits are OK as the ABS pump really moves the fluid and purges things quickly and thoroughly. It is the control circuits that are the pain.

My front went fairly well, but still feels a little soft. I think because my bike is still on the lift and I couldn't turn the bars full lock left to properly orient the master cylinder.

The rear is a major pain. I spent close to 30 minutes getting out the air between reservoir and master cylinder. I spent another 45+ minutes going through the 4 cycle bleed between master cylinder and ABS. I could not get good flow out of any of the 3 ports for the rear. Have an air lock somewhere. Finally gave up and went to the othe 3 circuits where I had good success.

I will make another run at the rear control when I get back from a trip. I am hoping the 5 days of sitting will let some of the air naturally rise up from the rear master cylinder.

So, bite the bullet and Do them all at once and suffer the bleed cycle just one time.
MATT,

Agree with you the OP (BMW_forever) needs to realize that low mileage is not a large factor. These original factory brake hoses are 17 years old and need to be replaced - all of them - without exception.

HOWEVER, on the positive side, he said he had a 1999, so this is much easier to bleed than later K1200LT like yours. For USA market, all 1999-2000 have ABS2 system and the simpler bleeding procedure is covered in CLYMER manual (chapter 14 , Brake system ABS II).

Bleed procedure for ABS2 is pretty much like any regular brake system EXCEPT for:
1) Top of ABS modulator has to nipples pointing UP: 1 for for Front brake line and 1 for Rear brake line. These need to be done after bleed has been done at respective Calipers.

2) The REAR caliper has 2 bleed nipples: Do INNER bleed nipple first, then do OUTER nipple.
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K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
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post #11 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 1:52 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by BeemerJoe View Post
I Also have a brake lines question. Bought a 2006LT 4 months ago.. Great ride. Reading about all these brake line issues, i decided to check mine out. Well i was pleasantly surprise when i saw they were steel braided lines. How do i know if they were speigler? I couldn't find a data plate on em. Also, when i did a transmission oil service, i noticed the brake line from the foot pedal is NOT steel braided. Not sure if it should be or not. Either way, all the rest are, so at least i know those have been changed
I don't remember if they actually have their name on them but if it is, I think it would be on the plastic bushing near the crimp at the banjo fitting embossed into the plastic.

The rear MC line was the first of mine to go and yes, it too should be braided so I wonder if someone took the lines to a local hydraulic shop and had them remade with braided hose. Spiegler are very thin compared to the original. Probably just as good either way but the one short line is suspect. I don't think Spiegler sells the individual lines so you may be better off either taking that one if all the others front and rear are already braided, to a local shop to be remade, or you could drop the $60 on another OEM line for that one and replace it again in 10 years

34 32 2 333 221 BRAKE HOSE 0.19 1 $60.74
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Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #12 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 1:53 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
The bike has about 34k miles only. I don't understand why these should go out so soon on such a high end bike.
While it may be a "high end" bike time breaks all things down. The brake lines deteriorate from the inside due to the brake fluid, DOT 4 brake fluid absorbs water from the air, rubber bushings dry out and fall apart, gas (ethanol) eats at fuel lines in the tank, engines that don't run can corrode on the inside, oil can become acidic and eat at things. I have an 2002 with 38,000 miles and I've spent the last few weeks replacing these things.

You can take the brake lines off and take them to a decent hydraulic hose shop and have some made but its faster and easier to just buy the kit. Grab two large bottles of brake fluid, some rubber hose to put on the bleeders, a funnel and plan on spending a day or two to get it done. It's not hard just a pain and slow the first time you do it.
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post #13 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 1:54 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

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MATT,

Agree with you the OP (NMW_forever) needs to realize that low mileage is not a large factor. These original factory brake hoses are 17 years old and need to be replaced - all of them - without exception.

HOWEVER, on the positive side, he said he had a 1999, so this is much easier to bleed than later K1200LT like yours. For USA market, all 1999-2000 have ABS2 system and the simpler bleeding procedure is covered in CLYMER manual (chapter 14 , Brake system ABS II)
I am only familiar with the I-ABS. However, even easy systems like cars and my former Kawasaki's can still be a pain when "dry" so I suggest a "once and done" approach.
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #14 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 9:52 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

Thank you all for the very helpful replies:

I checked the Spiegler website and could not find any kit/lines for the KLT.

4 Years ago I replaced the 23 inch long line that goes from the Right hand Fluid container (on top of the steering bar) to the connection point under the bike. I replaced it with a steel braided line from a company called H-e-l USA which made the line in couple of days and sent it to me for $49. Their service was excellent.

The short rubber hose that is leaking also cost $49 from them & they are giving me free shipping since I am a repeat customer.

Now, I am thinking if I would be better off getting an entire kit instead of just this one hose?

Since I can't find the kit price on Spiglers website, I don't know which is cheaper....the one hose for $49 or to get the entire kit.??

Any ideas of the cost of the kit please?

Thank you.
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post #15 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Thank you all for the very helpful replies:

I checked the Spiegler website and could not find any kit/lines for the KLT.

4 Years ago I replaced the 23 inch long line that goes from the Right hand Fluid container (on top of the steering bar) to the connection point under the bike. I replaced it with a steel braided line from a company called H-e-l USA which made the line in couple of days and sent it to me for $49. Their service was excellent.

The short rubber hose that is leaking also cost $49 from them & they are giving me free shipping since I am a repeat customer.

Now, I am thinking if I would be better off getting an entire kit instead of just this one hose?

Since I can't find the kit price on Spiglers website, I don't know which is cheaper....the one hose for $49 or to get the entire kit.??

Any ideas of the cost of the kit please?

Thank you.
The kit is normally about $250 but there are distributors who have made a deal to include more than just the lines such as all new banjo bolts. The kit from Spiegler direct comes with the lines and fittings plus aluminum crush washers but not new banjo bolts. Price is the same but I don't have a link to one of those dealers.

Here is the link to the kit on the spiegler site for your bike.

https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake...nt-+-rear.html

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #16 of 48 Old Jun 7th, 2016, 11:56 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
The kit is normally about $250 but there are distributors who have made a deal to include more than just the lines such as all new banjo bolts. The kit from Spiegler direct comes with the lines and fittings plus aluminum crush washers but not new banjo bolts. Price is the same but I don't have a link to one of those dealers.

Here is the link to the kit on the spiegler site for your bike.

https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake...nt-+-rear.html
Spiegler BMW K 1200 LT 02-10 Front/Rear Brake Line Kit (orig. w/ABS, Integral) - Sportbike Track Gear

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #17 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 12:45 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

Not sure this set would work, as his is a '99....

Dave Beck
'16 K1600GTLE
'07 K1200LT (sold 9/24/16)
'74 Suzuki GT750L (long, long gone)


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post #18 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 1:03 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Hello Everyone,

I have a 1999 K1200LT.

The Left front side brake line. On the Front wheel by the Left side caliber is leaking. And of course there is no braking power left aside from little in the rear brakes.

It looks like a short rubber hose.

First, is there a way to repair this?

Second: Where is the best place to buy a metal braided hose replacement ? Least expensive but good quality would be nice. I assume the other side (on the Right side of front wheel is the same).?

This looks easy enough to replace but maybe someone has an input or ideas on this.?

Thank you so much for your help.
AJ
Hi.

If you 'd like a set of spiegler brake line, i have a set , brand new. This will fit your 99LT.
If you are interested, call me at 702 469 6718. Leave a message.

Jean
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post #19 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 1:27 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by jeannot View Post
Hi.

If you 'd like a set of spiegler brake line, i have a set , brand new. This will fit your 99LT.
If you are interested, call me at 702 469 6718. Leave a message.

Jean
Thank you Jean. I will call you tomorrow as it might be too late to call you now.
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post #20 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 8:08 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

Actually, i told the right foot peg cover off to again look at the brake line, and yes it is a Steel braided line, so they have in fact all been changed. The rubber line that i saw was the filler line from the brake reservoir which is supposed to be rubber. As far as them being spiegler they are.. Thanks for all the responses.
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2006 K1200LT (Love it)
2002 R1150RT (Sold)
2007 Harley FLHTCU (sold at 137k Miles)
1999 Harley Night train (blew the eng at 150k miles)
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post #21 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 10:04 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Thank you all for the very helpful replies:

I checked the Spiegler website and could not find any kit/lines for the KLT.

4 Years ago I replaced the 23 inch long line that goes from the Right hand Fluid container (on top of the steering bar) to the connection point under the bike. I replaced it with a steel braided line from a company called H-e-l USA which made the line in couple of days and sent it to me for $49. Their service was excellent.

The short rubber hose that is leaking also cost $49 from them & they are giving me free shipping since I am a repeat customer.

Now, I am thinking if I would be better off getting an entire kit instead of just this one hose?

Since I can't find the kit price on Spiglers website, I don't know which is cheaper....the one hose for $49 or to get the entire kit.??

Any ideas of the cost of the kit please?

Thank you.
Also check on ebay and amazon for the kit. They both have them for $235 with free shipping. Is the leak from the line or could the banjo bolt have come loose?
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post #22 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 10:48 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by JNW003 View Post
Not sure this set would work, as his is a '99....
I got him to the source. I figured he could handle selecting the right year. If you can't handle that, you really shouldn't be working on your brakes unsupervised.
🙂
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #23 of 48 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 8:50 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeannot View Post
Hi.

If you 'd like a set of spiegler brake line, i have a set , brand new. This will fit your 99LT.
If you are interested, call me at 702 469 6718. Leave a message.

Jean
Hi Jean,

I left you a voicemail, call or text me please and let me know how we can arrange this.

Thank you so much,
AJ
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post #24 of 48 Old Jun 10th, 2016, 1:49 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

Ok, so I have a question directed to those of you who are Experts on the brake lines for this bike....bear with me please.

Are all the Brake lines on this bike made out of Rubber? or are there some (the ones hidden under all the tubberware & frame) made out of metal ?

What is the total of the Rubber lines that needs replacing? Are there 6 Rubber lines in the bike ?

As I've already replaced #1 rubber line (goes from the reservoir tank on the Right handle bar to somewhere underneath the bike) with a steel braided line and now I need to replace #7 line (Short 5 inch line that goes from the brake pad on the Left side up). I am trying to decide if I really need to buy the entire kit or just get the lines I need.

Another brake question:

I tried to replace the front pads with new ones, I pushed the pistons in (I opened the fluid reservoir) but I had the problem of one piston going down while the other next to it went up (each caliber has 4 pistons, 2 on each side). This was a problem I had with the Left side Front caliber.

I tried & tried to get all 4 pistons down (so the new pads would fit) till I got tired of it.

Is there an issue here causing the pistons not to go down ???

Finally, is there anyone in the San Jose, California area (or close by who wants to help me with this)??

Thank you so much.
AJ
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post #25 of 48 Old Jun 10th, 2016, 2:14 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

From what I recall when I installed my Spiegler's, at least one of the lines running from in front of the top of the radiator area to the ABS unit is metal. You're really not going to save much if any, buying piece-meal. I would just go for the Spiegler kit, bleed the system once real well and be done with it. Watch Kirk's video on brake bleeding and/or buy John Zeiler's video on brake bleeding. John's video describes fashioning spacers to fit in place of the pads when bleeding, which are also used to push back the pistons into the calipers. I'd offer to help, but live in SoCal.

Dave Beck
'16 K1600GTLE
'07 K1200LT (sold 9/24/16)
'74 Suzuki GT750L (long, long gone)


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post #26 of 48 Old Jun 10th, 2016, 9:15 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Ok, so I have a question directed to those of you who are Experts on the brake lines for this bike....bear with me please.

Are all the Brake lines on this bike made out of Rubber? or are there some (the ones hidden under all the tubberware & frame) made out of metal ?

What is the total of the Rubber lines that needs replacing? Are there 6 Rubber lines in the bike ?

As I've already replaced #1 rubber line (goes from the reservoir tank on the Right handle bar to somewhere underneath the bike) with a steel braided line and now I need to replace #7 line (Short 5 inch line that goes from the brake pad on the Left side up). I am trying to decide if I really need to buy the entire kit or just get the lines I need.

Another brake question:

I tried to replace the front pads with new ones, I pushed the pistons in (I opened the fluid reservoir) but I had the problem of one piston going down while the other next to it went up (each caliber has 4 pistons, 2 on each side). This was a problem I had with the Left side Front caliber.

I tried & tried to get all 4 pistons down (so the new pads would fit) till I got tired of it.

Is there an issue here causing the pistons not to go down ???

Finally, is there anyone in the San Jose, California area (or close by who wants to help me with this)??

Thank you so much.
AJ
There are 6 hoses that you replace but there are metal lines mounted on the bike. You should not have to replace the metal lines unless there is a catastrophic failure. I would replace all 6 lines at the same time or you're going to keep blowing them out one at a time over until they're all replaced and then you may end up starting over with the first line you replaced. Best to do it all once and done.

I leave the old brake pads in the caliper and use wood shims to spread them apart. The shims are thin on one end and get thicker at the other. You just stack them facing opposite directions to fit and tap them to spread the pads apart. This will push all four pistons back at the same time. Keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow.
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post #27 of 48 Old Jun 13th, 2016, 9:33 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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There are 6 hoses that you replace but there are metal lines mounted on the bike. You should not have to replace the metal lines unless there is a catastrophic failure. I would replace all 6 lines at the same time or you're going to keep blowing them out one at a time over until they're all replaced and then you may end up starting over with the first line you replaced. Best to do it all once and done.

I leave the old brake pads in the caliper and use wood shims to spread them apart. The shims are thin on one end and get thicker at the other. You just stack them facing opposite directions to fit and tap them to spread the pads apart. This will push all four pistons back at the same time. Keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow.
Ok today I counted only a total of 5 rubber brake lines on this bike.

1- Long 23 inch line that goes from the Brake fluid canister (on top of the handle bars) down to the front (above the front wheel).

2- Short line that goes from the Left side of front caliber.
3- Short line that goes from the Right side of front caliber.
4- connection Line that connects #3 above to the metal line above the front wheel.

5- Line that connects the rear brake caliber to the metal line on the Right side of the bike.

Or is line #6 to replace the Clutch fluid line ?? on the Left side of the handle bars.

Does the clutch fluid line goes out often ??

Thank you.
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post #28 of 48 Old Jun 13th, 2016, 11:12 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Ok today I counted only a total of 5 rubber brake lines on this bike.

1- Long 23 inch line that goes from the Brake fluid canister (on top of the handle bars) down to the front (above the front wheel).

2- Short line that goes from the Left side of front caliber.
3- Short line that goes from the Right side of front caliber.
4- connection Line that connects #3 above to the metal line above the front wheel.

5- Line that connects the rear brake caliber to the metal line on the Right side of the bike.

Or is line #6 to replace the Clutch fluid line ?? on the Left side of the handle bars.

Does the clutch fluid line goes out often ??

Thank you.
#6 would be from the rear brake pedal to the abs hardline.
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post #29 of 48 Old Jun 13th, 2016, 11:23 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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#6 would be from the rear brake pedal to the abs hardline.
Ah, yes thank you.

Is this #6 line hard to get to ? Does all the Right side tubberware needs to be removed to replace this line ?

I didn't take a close look at the rear brake pedal but the other brake lines are fairly easy to get to.

Another question which is obvious but I want to make sure: Since the front brakes are not operational now (because of the line leaking), is there ANY braking left in the Rear brakes?

Thank you.
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post #30 of 48 Old Jun 13th, 2016, 11:36 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Ah, yes thank you.

Is this #6 line hard to get to ? Does all the Right side tubberware needs to be removed to replace this line ?

I didn't take a close look at the rear brake pedal but the other brake lines are fairly easy to get to.

Another question which is obvious but I want to make sure: Since the front brakes are not operational now (because of the line leaking), is there ANY braking left in the Rear brakes?

Thank you.
Yes, you pretty much need to get all the Right side off to do the rear MC short line. It goes up to a metal line connector and if you are careful, you can get a wrench on it but the clearance to get into it is tight.

I have not heard of a clutch line bursting as I believe it is a much lower pressure than the brakes. It is a very expensive set of hoses from the dealer and no one seems to have the very small banjo fittings to make an after market one plus one of them has a compound bend on it.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
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post #31 of 48 Old Jun 14th, 2016, 12:52 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Ah, yes thank you.

Is this #6 line hard to get to ? Does all the Right side tubberware needs to be removed to replace this line ?

I didn't take a close look at the rear brake pedal but the other brake lines are fairly easy to get to.

Another question which is obvious but I want to make sure: Since the front brakes are not operational now (because of the line leaking), is there ANY braking left in the Rear brakes?

Thank you.
I just took off all the tupperware, easy enough to do, made it much easier to see what I was doing with the brake lines, and maximized access to put the zip ties where they needed to be, and bleeding the ABS module is impossible with the left side tupperware in place. Front fender and the fairing can stay put, though.


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post #32 of 48 Old Jun 14th, 2016, 7:31 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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I just took off all the tupperware, easy enough to do, made it much easier to see what I was doing with the brake lines, and maximized access to put the zip ties where they needed to be, and bleeding the ABS module is impossible with the left side tupperware in place. Front fender and the fairing can stay put, though.


Mark
Do I need to bleed the ABS module on a 1999 K1200LT if I am replacing the brake lines ? Or do I just bleed the nipples at each brake?

On the 1999 the front and rear brakes are not linked as in later years.

Thank you.
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Do I need to bleed the ABS module on a 1999 K1200LT if I am replacing the brake lines ? Or do I just bleed the nipples at each brake?

On the 1999 the front and rear brakes are not linked as in later years.

Thank you.
Yes you do. The two bleed nipples on top are easy to get to compared to the I-ABS unit. No special bent wrenches required. You want to push all the old fluid out of the ABS unit along with any air.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
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post #34 of 48 Old Jun 14th, 2016, 8:54 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
Ah, yes thank you.

Is this #6 line hard to get to ? Does all the Right side tubberware needs to be removed to replace this line ?

I didn't take a close look at the rear brake pedal but the other brake lines are fairly easy to get to.

Another question which is obvious but I want to make sure: Since the front brakes are not operational now (because of the line leaking), is there ANY braking left in the Rear brakes?

Thank you.
Yep, what he said. lol
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post #35 of 48 Old Jun 14th, 2016, 9:22 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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The bike has about 34k miles only. I don't understand why these should go out so soon on such a high end bike.
We are talking about a 17 year old bike. Trust me the brake lines are gone and is dangerous to ride until you replace the lines. I replaced the lines on my 02 about 6 months ago and have not looked back. I was very lucky to have a friend who knew what he was doing to "help" me. Actually he did all the work and I just watched. If you are a decent wrench it is a job you should be able to do after watching the videos. It is time consuming, you have to take most of the tupperware off. But take your time and be patient. Good luck but do not mess around with these brake lines, they will not get any better.
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post #36 of 48 Old Jun 14th, 2016, 10:24 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

You do not need to bleed the ABS module on a US 2000 model. The wheel bleeders will drain all the brake fluid needed. Push the pads back to force the old fluid to the reservoirs, suck out as much dirty fluid as you can from the reservoirs, put in clean fluid then bleed as if it were conventional brakes.

Robert
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post #37 of 48 Old Jun 14th, 2016, 8:28 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

Ok.

So many on here recommend Spiegler brake lines.

I've used HEL brake lines on the one line I replaced 4 yrs ago & I had no issues with it.

So my question is:

Does anyone here have experience with other brands?

Is there a difference between Galfer, Spiegler, Hel, Venhill and other steel braided lines ???

Or are they all more or less the same ?

Thank you,
AJ
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post #38 of 48 Old Jun 15th, 2016, 11:15 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Ok.

So many on here recommend Spiegler brake lines.

I've used HEL brake lines on the one line I replaced 4 yrs ago & I had no issues with it.

So my question is:

Does anyone here have experience with other brands?

Is there a difference between Galfer, Spiegler, Hel, Venhill and other steel braided lines ???

Or are they all more or less the same ?
AJ
I would strongly recommend the Spiegler lines. Everything you need is included in the set. I have never seen anything but positive remarks about Spiegler lines. Good Luck with your project.
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post #39 of 48 Old Jun 15th, 2016, 11:50 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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I would strongly recommend the Spiegler lines. Everything you need is included in the set. I have never seen anything but positive remarks about Spiegler lines. Good Luck with your project.
The only issue I've heard and experienced is packaging quality control. Mine was shipped with 7 correct banjo bolts and one incorrect bolt. I bought from STG and they provide matching color banjo bolts.

I understand if you buy from Spieglers directly, you don't get new bolts, but use the stock ones. However, I have read a number of folks who got wrong or missing parts. That seems to be the biggest issue with Spieglers.

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post #40 of 48 Old Jun 15th, 2016, 12:08 pm
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Re: Brake lines question.

I would go with these guys
Sportbike Track Gear
as they gave me banjo bolts which are hex head as opposed to the original which is torx or allen. As I stripped a couple(no surprise) getting them off...

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post #41 of 48 Old Jun 16th, 2016, 11:40 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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I would go with these guys
Sportbike Track Gear
as they gave me banjo bolts which are hex head as opposed to the original which is torx or allen. As I stripped a couple(no surprise) getting them off...
I thought Hex or Allen are the same thing? Hex is different.

The bike has Allen type of banjo bolts on it.
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post #42 of 48 Old Jun 16th, 2016, 11:58 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question/Do these come apart ??

I removed the 2 section line which goes up above the front wheel then goes to the 2 front calibers.

See photos

It is 22 inch long and it looks it is in 2 sections with a metal block in between.

My question is: Do the 2 rubber hoses (the 2 sections) come off the Metal block or is this how it comes & get replaced as one piece?

If they are 2 hoses that come off the Metal block in the middle, then how do you take them off/apart ?

I tried to unscrew them without any luck.

Help please.

Thank you.
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post #43 of 48 Old Jun 17th, 2016, 12:09 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

One more question:

Are these 10 MM Banjos on these lines or are they 12 MM?

And on the 7 inch short line (that goes to the Left side front brake caliber), is the other side a 10 MM Female 1.00 thread ?

Thank you.
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Re: Brake lines question.

Seriously, just buy the complete Spiegler's lines and be done with it...

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post #45 of 48 Old Jun 17th, 2016, 3:03 am Thread Starter
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Re: Brake lines question.

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Seriously, just buy the complete Spiegler's lines and be done with it...

Thank you but I can't afford the $200 plus price tag right now.
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post #46 of 48 Old Jun 17th, 2016, 3:21 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

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I thought Hex or Allen are the same thing? Hex is different.

The bike has Allen type of banjo bolts on it.
Both are hex, but one is internal (Allen) and the other is the common external. The STG banjos are external hex.

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post #47 of 48 Old Jun 17th, 2016, 10:38 am
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Re: Brake lines question/Do these come apart ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_forever View Post
I removed the 2 section line which goes up above the front wheel then goes to the 2 front calibers.

See photos

It is 22 inch long and it looks it is in 2 sections with a metal block in between.

My question is: Do the 2 rubber hoses (the 2 sections) come off the Metal block or is this how it comes & get replaced as one piece?

If they are 2 hoses that come off the Metal block in the middle, then how do you take them off/apart ?

I tried to unscrew them without any luck.

Help please.

Thank you.

The front line with the metal block comes as one piece OEM. I think in the spiegler kit, you assemble it from parts in the kit.

Save your pennies and when you can, get the spieglers in a kit that includes the banjo bolts. Buying OEM lines piecemeal will cost you well over $400. If you need to replace one leaking one now, like I did for my first leaky one, you can but when my second one burst a few weeks later, I bit the bullet and did them all. I was lucky that both went less than a mile from home and moving slowly.
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2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #48 of 48 Old Jul 1st, 2016, 12:46 am
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Re: Brake lines question.

As Gordon said, the Spiegler kit comes with that block as a separate piece that you attach the right and left front lines to. They're also the one headache in the kit, as there is no crush washer and no torque spec, you just have to wrench those fittings in until they don't leak, and trust me, it takes some work. Everything else is really straightforward, the lines are labeled and everything. And if you use the correct size Allen wrench in the banjo bolts, you should have no trouble at all. All my stock ones came out and went back in just fine. But, if you want peace of mind, get the kit that Voyager recommended, and you'll be all set.

And not to rain on your parade or anything, but if a $200 set of brake lines is too much to swallow, this may not be the bike for you, especially one of that vintage. There are several major components that are known to fail on these bikes and $200 is cheap in comparison to most of them. Just sayin'


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