Looking at '99 LT w/ 62K miles -- quick list to watch out for? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 6 Old Oct 11th, 2006, 6:16 pm Thread Starter
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Looking at '99 LT w/ 62K miles -- quick list to watch out for?

Looking at buying a '99 LT with 62K miles on it: Is there a consolidated or quick list of things I need to watch out for or have inspected on that model year?

I've been through the FAQ and did some searching. Most of the stuff on the board applies to 2000 or later models.

I've been lurking for only a few weeks after deciding to upgrade to an LT after riding a Honda v-twin cruiser for the last 4 years.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 6 Old Oct 11th, 2006, 6:30 pm
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The usual mechanical/electrical stuff to start with.

1. A flashlight under the engine, tranny, and unseen areas looking for fluid leakage etc. Also check that fluids are of good color.

2. A good test ride to check the performance, i.e. brakes (abs pads etc.), steering, suspension, shifting, and engine feel. Electric switches and functions need to be working, i.e. turn signals, headlights, complete stereo, windshield, cruise control etc.

3. Records, records, records........ of service and mechanical history. Both in the shop and home maintenace.

Thats a good start.
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post #3 of 6 Old Oct 11th, 2006, 6:35 pm
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Nothing much really

Check the rear drive for roughness..Just put it up on the center stand and in neutral spin the rear tire.. Listen for any roughness in the rear drive...

You'll hear some brake scraping but that's normal... You're interested in the rear drive..

Check the rear wheel for any lateral movement by wiggling it at 12 and 6.. Then at 3 and 9 oclock.. Just like you would on a car...

That's about the only real trouble spot on the LT..They will run forever if taken care of but about 4 percent of the rear drives fail...

After you own it you'll want to drill a small hole in the clutch slave cylinder mounting boss to eliminate the possibility of a failed slave cylinder runining the clutch. It's sealed and if the slave fails it forces fluid thru the actuator rod opening right on to the clutch and ruins it also... The slave cylinder is about a hundred bucks, but if it also trashes the clutch then the price jumps to about 1500.00 to get it all fixed...The slave cylinders also have a pretty good failure rate so this is something that all LT owners should do...I'' be doing mine when I get it down for maintenance this winter...


Other than that they're pretty bulletproof...

The 99's also had an issue with the starter relay welding shut when trying to start the bike on a very low battery... But if it's starting and running I wouldn't worry about it.. Ask if they have maintenance records...I'd want to know if it was dealer maintained at the proper intervals or owner maintained..

Now some of us owners do better work than the dealer so don't let it be an issue just as long as it HAS been maintained...

Dealer maintenance is fairly expensive......That's all I have to say about that.


Ride it, And if you like it,,,,,, And you will... buy it...If you get the SO involved in the decision it'll be much easier... Most just have a seat and say.. "Yes let's get one of these.. They're very comfortable compared to most other bikes..

I just love mine... Rode today...

Good Luck

John

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post #4 of 6 Old Oct 13th, 2006, 9:21 am
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1) Throttle cables break, usually at the handgrip due to horrible routing.
2) Starter relay sticks due to a really bad design. Factory fix is a voltage limiting circuit which keeps it from working below 5V.
3) If it has the original Comm system, it is either broken or will be shortly.
4) The shift linkage can be problematic due to a blind threaded stud at into the footpeg mount. Stud unscrews and breaks, no shifting thereafter.
5) Dealer base is steadily decreasing due to pressure from BMW to spend too much money on new facilities which can't be supported by sales. Make sure you have a dealer within a comfortable distance. I live near Cincinnati, Ohio and the nearest dealer is 100 miles away.
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post #5 of 6 Old Oct 13th, 2006, 9:44 am
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My '99 had been seriously abused when I bought it with that kind of mialage, so the following is for a realy nasty one (and I still love it);

1. Electrics - check the cigar electric connections near feet - my wiring was rusted through and bust
2. check clutch dosnt slip at high sudden revs - sign of oil on clutch - an expensive fix
3. as mentioned above - do what they say about the rear wheel - a VERY expensive fix
4. Check cruise works and throttle moves smooth - cables can be upgraded if stiff - knock the price down
5. Wheels are not dinged - I had to buy a new one as previous owner had warped one
6. Rotors are not warped
7. Bike not been down the road - drops are common (you will drop it), but if the pods are scrapped sideways, its a slide not a drop
8. If ABS lights dont light up on key turn - they have been disconnected because ABS doesnt work. If they do light when key turned but stay continusly flash, ABS is bust.
9. See if headlight seems dim - this is normal, but if bright then the lights have been upgraded - a good sign

Hope it's a good one - let us know how you get on

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post #6 of 6 Old Oct 13th, 2006, 11:41 am Thread Starter
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Many thanks.

Thanks so much to all who've responded. What a great forum!

When I finally become a permanent LT-riding member, I'll shoot another post on first reactions.
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