Throttle cable replacement notes - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 10:12 am Thread Starter
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Talking Throttle cable replacement notes

Here are my throttle cable replacement observations so how I spent my Sunday.

Having waited two months to get the throttle cable upgrade parts from Chicago BMW I was in no big hurry to get this done. so being the procrastinator that I am I finally told myself I had to get off my duff and do this. I stripped the bike down to the 24k level. I remember reading that some one did this without taking the air box off; they must have been magicians!

I removed the fan cowling, two screws holding that on. I also removed the handle bar covers both sides and the cover around the ignition. There was no way I could get the new cable ends installed without removing the air box. Here’s why; there is a small circlip that holds the throttle cable in place behind the cruise control plate. This must be removed in order to change it out. I guess to could unscrew the cruise control switch but I thought the air box removal would be best. You have to get to that clip from above. Plus it’s just plain easier to change out the cables with out that air box in the way!

The air box comes straight off after you have unclipped two non reusable hose clamps on the first and second throttle body and then unscrew the third and forth re useable hose clamps. There is also one screw you have to remove that holds the airport to the air tunnel which goes out to the front of the bike. You really have to tug on that air box to get if off. I just kept wiggling it back and forth and it finally slid off the throttle bodies.

So now comes the fun part, the hand grip disassembly. Having installed the Phoenix light switch to my bike I sort of remembered how the grip comes apart, sorta…….
Words can not describe how I got this done! There are a few very small screws that hold this thing together. The toughest part was how to remove the old cable holder. Once I had the cable ends off, the retaining plate was still there and I could see two small screws behind the hand grip that held it. How do you get to those? Well turn the hand grip a short distance and its slides off about an inch giving you enough room to unscrew the two screws. I found this out by accident. Then you have to snip a ¾” section off the old plate off to get it completely gone.

I taped the new cables to the old ones and feed them down by pulling the old cables. This worked ok but the clearance is minimal at the steering head. The throttle opening cable has a green tape attached to it by the way. I held the throttle bodies open so I could remove and replace the lower cable. This just took patience and a long needle nose pliers and a long screwdriver. Then I removed the circlip off the upper cable and slide it out along with the spring for the cruise control switch. This cable was the easiest to do.

I then cut an elongated hole in the lower handle bar cover with my Dremel tool so I could feed the upper ends of the cables through it. I installed the new cable retaining plate to the hand grip. Then I positioned the cables (make sure you mark the throttle opening cable some way so you don’t install them backwards!) and hooked them to the hand grip and aligned the cables in the grooves. I re-assembled the hand grip and adjusted the tension until it moved freely and felt right. I made sure the cruise control switch was working too.

I then cleaned the throttle bodies because they were dirty after 59k of running. Then I bought two new hose clamps to replace the clamps on number 1 and 2 throttle body. Be sure these clamps to not interfere with the throttle body openers and spring holders. They have to be installed so they don’t block the operation. I reinstalled the air box and then everything else until I could start the bike after the gas tank was back on. I started fine so I completed the re assembly. I took a test ride and liked the new feel of the throttle. Very different than what I was used to.

The hardest thing about this install was the hand grip disassembly and the hook up of the new cable ends to the throttle body cam and the cable ends back into the hand grip. The air box was no picnic either. But I had read other install comments and referred to the BMW manual several times so I was able to muck my way through this. I started at 10am and finished at 5:30pm including a run to the parts store for hose clamps and carb cleaner plus a short lunch break. I can only feel better having known the dealer charge for this would have been at least 400.00 give or take a c note. I love saving money when I can but this plum tired me out!

Sorry no pictures but there are a lot of pictures in the FAQ.

looking around for a possible replacement



2001 K1200 LTC Mauve (Hi-Way Star) may she rest in peace!

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post #2 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 10:31 am
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Thanks John -- this will come in handy for this winters projects

Roy Jorawsky
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2002 K1200LT - "BackDraft" - Deceased
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post #3 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 10:51 am
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Throttle cable replacement

Good job John on getting the cables replaced. I am beginning my cables replacement job and it has started off slowly. I was finally able to remove the cover (which took way too much time) and now am awaiting the cables from Chicago BMW.

Thanks for the advice on the two screws you referred to in your post. I was wondering how those things will be coming out and will now use your advice for their removal.

I am looking forward to the new cables and will be doing some 24k maintenance while I have her stripped down.

Thanks.

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #4 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 12:50 pm
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Went through the whole process a few months ago. It was a PITA, but worth it. The good news is, once you have done this, it won't be hard if you have to do it again! (Assuming, in my case, that my small mind doesn't forget everything it managed to learn the first time around!)

Steve Brooten
'01 K1200LT
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post #5 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 2:49 pm
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I did cable upgrades 2 years ago & did NOT have to remove air box
You did however need to remove injector rail to gain access to the lower cables anchor point.

Just received my "Newest" version of cables from Chicago BMW last month, so this winter will be easier than the first time

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post #6 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 3:14 pm Thread Starter
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Smile thanks

Thanks James,
It was a job but not an impossible one. The benefits, my wrist will not get as tired from turning that stiff throttle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer100
Good job John on getting the cables replaced. I am beginning my cables replacement job and it has started off slowly. I was finally able to remove the cover (which took way too much time) and now am awaiting the cables from Chicago BMW.

Thanks for the advice on the two screws you referred to in your post. I was wondering how those things will be coming out and will now use your advice for their removal.

I am looking forward to the new cables and will be doing some 24k maintenance while I have her stripped down.

Thanks.

looking around for a possible replacement



2001 K1200 LTC Mauve (Hi-Way Star) may she rest in peace!

CCR'2001 Hotsprings, AR., Sante Fe, NM., Gatlinberg, TN.
Breckinridge, CO., Grand Teton Nat. Prk, WY.
Chateau Elan, GA., Tan-a-Tar-A missed it!
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post #7 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 3:17 pm Thread Starter
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Smile injector rail

It looked to me that the airbox was easier to remove than the injector rail. I did not want to take a chance on messing something up with all those connections, o-rings and such. The airbox only had 4 hose clamps and 1 screw holding it. Glad it worked for ya.


Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead
I did cable upgrades 2 years ago & did NOT have to remove air box
You did however need to remove injector rail to gain access to the lower cables anchor point.

Just received my "Newest" version of cables from Chicago BMW last month, so this winter will be easier than the first time

looking around for a possible replacement



2001 K1200 LTC Mauve (Hi-Way Star) may she rest in peace!

CCR'2001 Hotsprings, AR., Sante Fe, NM., Gatlinberg, TN.
Breckinridge, CO., Grand Teton Nat. Prk, WY.
Chateau Elan, GA., Tan-a-Tar-A missed it!
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post #8 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 3:23 pm
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Because of my huge hands, I did remove the rail. It wasn't all that hard, but it would be easy to mess up stuff if you are not careful. The best thing I did was have the instructions right in front of me all the time 'cause (as I said before) I have a tiny mind and details seem to slip away if I don't have "reminders" handy. The archives have some good directions, the cd manual is okay, and the new Clymer manual is an excellent tool.

Steve Brooten
'01 K1200LT
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post #9 of 27 Old Oct 9th, 2006, 9:23 pm
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I've done a couple of these and didn't remove the air box or injector rail either time. It took a few tries to get the lower cable ends hooked, but I got them. I guess all those years fitting bicycle brake cables paid off.

Ken
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'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
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BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #10 of 27 Old Oct 10th, 2006, 2:00 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
I've done a couple of these and didn't remove the air box or injector rail either time. It took a few tries to get the lower cable ends hooked, but I got them. I guess all those years fitting bicycle brake cables paid off.

looking around for a possible replacement



2001 K1200 LTC Mauve (Hi-Way Star) may she rest in peace!

CCR'2001 Hotsprings, AR., Sante Fe, NM., Gatlinberg, TN.
Breckinridge, CO., Grand Teton Nat. Prk, WY.
Chateau Elan, GA., Tan-a-Tar-A missed it!
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post #11 of 27 Old Oct 10th, 2006, 3:55 pm
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Great write up, John. How were you holding your lips?



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post #12 of 27 Old Oct 10th, 2006, 7:13 pm Thread Starter
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Not sure but if a picture was to be available I bet it would be a good one!

looking around for a possible replacement



2001 K1200 LTC Mauve (Hi-Way Star) may she rest in peace!

CCR'2001 Hotsprings, AR., Sante Fe, NM., Gatlinberg, TN.
Breckinridge, CO., Grand Teton Nat. Prk, WY.
Chateau Elan, GA., Tan-a-Tar-A missed it!
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post #13 of 27 Old Oct 12th, 2006, 3:20 pm
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Did both injector rail and air box

Good Job on the write up.
I decided to remove both the airbox and fuel rail when I did mine as I have no tolerance for little aggravating things.The long needle nose pliers did not work for me. They ended up a crossed the garage in the wall needle nose first
What a difference the new cables made !!!!!
It was well worth the time and effort

Rich Kirker
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post #14 of 27 Old Mar 18th, 2007, 3:59 pm
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bringing back the dead...... replacing the throttle cable

My 2002 with 26,000 miles seems to be OK and my guess, since I've owned it since it had 1,000 miles is that it is the original. In reading several threads about it sticking and being replaced, my question is: How do you know it needs to be replaced? Is there an easy way to determine if it is the newer version?

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

12 K1600 GTL
02 K1200 LT (gone but not forgotten)
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post #15 of 27 Old Mar 18th, 2007, 8:16 pm
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Thanks for taking the time to write down your experiences.

I have had new cables for almost a year, and still have not built up the never to do the install.

I also would like to drill a weep hole for the slave cylinder...maybe some rainy day.
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post #16 of 27 Old Mar 19th, 2007, 6:07 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandiver
My 2002 with 26,000 miles seems to be OK and my guess, since I've owned it since it had 1,000 miles is that it is the original. In reading several threads about it sticking and being replaced, my question is: How do you know it needs to be replaced? Is there an easy way to determine if it is the newer version?
1. When you are seriously considering adding vice grips to the right grip it's time to change cables.

2. The new and old cables look different on the bike. Look at the ends of the cable and the "relay" where the cables go into the grip. They will be different. Look at the cable routing on the bottom of the right handlebar cover. The new cables usually need a hole in the bottom of the cover.

Bill McAllister
St. Louis, MO.
2003 K1200LTE
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post #17 of 27 Old Mar 19th, 2007, 7:44 am
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seems OK so far...

thanks, guess I'll have to compare with a new one to see the difference. Not noticeable at this point.

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

12 K1600 GTL
02 K1200 LT (gone but not forgotten)
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post #18 of 27 Old Mar 19th, 2007, 9:19 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandiver
My 2002 with 26,000 miles seems to be OK and my guess, since I've owned it since it had 1,000 miles is that it is the original. In reading several threads about it sticking and being replaced, my question is: How do you know it needs to be replaced? Is there an easy way to determine if it is the newer version?
Dano,

I've asked myself and others the same question...

My 2002 has over 50K on the clock and I don't think my throttle feels any different or stiffer than a new one.

Maybe we just got lucky, and a few '02s were indeed assembled right!

J. Averill Townsend
Bloomfield Hills, MI


IBA# 24374

2002 K1200LTC - Silver
1978 R100/7 - Very, very Black
2004 Bushtec Quantum - Silver, of course...(SOLD)

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post #19 of 27 Old Mar 19th, 2007, 12:06 pm
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Somewhere in the bmw literature, I thought that bmw suggested to change out the cables every 36,000.

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
2000 LT - Totaled at 99,960 miles


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post #20 of 27 Old Mar 19th, 2007, 1:32 pm
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My 02 cable is original

Checked it a little while ago after a 2 hour ride today and mine is original with 27,000 miles and seems to be very easy to twist. Guess I just got lucky.... After reading what it takes to swap it out, that is one task I'd prefer to read about and not do.

Dano
Tampa, Fl.

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post #21 of 27 Old Jun 17th, 2007, 3:40 pm
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Like Ken, I did not remove the air box or rail. I had some old forceps that got the cables attached after a few tries. I agree that the bicycle cable experience helped.

John Berry
'00 Basalt LT - "Blur"
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post #22 of 27 Old Oct 10th, 2010, 11:30 am
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Re: Throttle cable replacement notes

Can anyone tell me the best place to get replacement throttle cables and what else, if anything I will need to order to replace my cables to get them to work better?

Thank you... I am a new member and new owner of a 2000 LT with 42K.

Paul Cooley
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post #23 of 27 Old Oct 10th, 2010, 7:11 pm
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Re: Throttle cable replacement notes

Hi Paul -- welcome to the board!!

First off you are in the RIGHT place for info -- if you've never taken off the fairing(s) aka Tupperware from your LT you might check out this post ("Stingray removal" in the K1200LT forum) as there are some good links there that will get you some answers - there's also a ton of info on the throttle cable replacement including the original recall from BMW posted here on the site -- happy searching and archiving

Bill

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post #24 of 27 Old Oct 17th, 2010, 6:56 pm
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Re: Throttle cable replacement notes

Got home the other day and knew my cable was fraying because I could hear it when I turned the grip. Only a hair strand was between me and walking. I bit the bullet and ordered the 3 part numbers listed in a different post for my 2000LT UPGRADE. The parts list is for an upgrade to 2005 and above. No one explained the "repair kit" that is listed with the cable, so I will give it a shot. The original cables used a plastic housing to make the 90 degree bend from the hand grip to the handlebar cover. The new cables are designed like most Japanese bikes and the 90 degree bend is built into the cable end. You must cut a dime size hole about 6 inches down the lower handlebar cover, to allow the cables to route back through the cover and follow the original path. The cables can be ordered by phone from Bike Bandit but they don't show up on the website. Total cost was around $170 and it took about 5-6 hours to make the change. I was able to replace them without removing the fuel rack or breather housing. Careful around the handlebar grip, there are hidden screws and tricks to get it apart. Turning the grip a certain place after you have the old cables loose, allows you to slide it back about 1 inch without removing the grip heat wiring. This will let you use a small 90 degree phillips to take the cable contraption loose. The throttle is now a lot smoother and snaps back nicely, however, its still nothing like my other bikes. I counted 4 torsion springs on the throttle shaft, so I don't think it will ever be a light throttle, but is about 40% easier with the upgrade.
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post #25 of 27 Old Jan 17th, 2011, 1:08 pm
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Re: Throttle cable replacement notes

I want to replace the cables on my 1999 K1200lt and don't know the parts numbers. Can anyone help?
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post #26 of 27 Old Jan 17th, 2011, 3:08 pm
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Re: Throttle cable replacement notes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahunt
I want to replace the cables on my 1999 K1200lt and don't know the parts numbers. Can anyone help?
C32.73.7.694.490 Throttle
C32.73.7.694.491 Acc cable
C32.72.7.691.990 Rep.Kit
These are the part numbers I ordered and fitted to my 1999 Lt on the 8/1/2010.
Total cost in Ireland was €144.41.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Derek

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post #27 of 27 Old Aug 8th, 2013, 7:54 am
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Re: Throttle cable replacement notes

I need to replace my throttle cables (again) after only 20,000kms. The cable broke again last night on the way home from work! I presume it right down at the down on the actuating mechanism (again) as the handlebar end was intact.
This time I'm going to have to fit the more expensive upgrade type as it seems to be 'improved'.
Is there any effective way to lighten the throttle and reduce wear on these cables?
Do I really need to change the cruise control cable too or is the parts dealer just trying to help me fill his pockets?

Thanks in advance

1999 BMW K1200LT "Galatea"
1976 MERCEDES-BENZ 280S "Lady Genevieve"
1993 MERCEDES-BENZ S320 "Lady Audrey"

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