Originally Posted by GBaker
In addition to my own issues in getting used to this new bike (albiet pretty happy over all and sporting that big grin...), my 'friend' managed to turn the adjusting knob on the dash too far to the left and I heard it pop. Yep so now it just turns and turns in both directions. What brought this on is the first night I rode it the low beam was too high and we were tring to get it down. The knob did not seem to be doing any thing when turned according to the owners manual...And one thing led to another. I did not find the thumb adjustment knob until the next day... Would think that would be in the owners manual but I have not seen it...
Any way I priced the whole assembly at A&S at ~$35.00 which was a pleasant surprise. Does any one know how to get to it and if it is something I can fix with out replacing it or parts?
Depends on what went "pop." See pages 63.5 and 63.7 of the Repair Manual to see the headlight adjuster arrangements.
In short, the knob end of the cable holds one end of the cable in a fixed manner, i.e., as the knob rotates, the cable rotates. The other end of the cable is like a clutch cable end -- a small cylinder engaged in a lever attached to the headlight reflector, and a screw-in cable ferrule which receives the cable sheath. As the knob is rotated, the cable shortens, pulling the lever up (toward the ferrule), which in turn lowers the reflector.
If the cable popped off the lever, and the lever didn't break (frankly, unlikely -- it's strong but brittle plastic), you can push the lever up and put the cable cylinder back into its seat under the lever. You can check this by looking up under the nose from below, at the right side of the back of the headlight housing.
If the lever broke, bad news -- headlight housing replacement ($300+).
If the cable broke, or it broke out of the knob, cable replacement.
Cable replacement can be done with the nose fairing installed -- it's a pita, but it can be done with the "dome" over the instrument panel. It's a *much* easier job with the nose removed, and it's really not that hard a job.
Once the L&R upper side panels, windshield and dome are removed, there are only a few screws to go. Disconnect the electrical connectors under the nose (headlight plug, parking light, ambient air temp sensor). Screws: two T25 torx at the bottom L&R sides of the nose fairing (4 total), two Allen ball studs (two of the mirror studs each side, 4 total), and one T25 at the top center of the fairing. Before removing that last screw, remove the phillips from the side of the headlight adjuster knob, pull off the knob, unscrew the black hex nut under the knob (keep track of the order of the rubber and steel washers under the hex nut), then shove the cable back through the dash.
Once the cable is free, remove the last (top center) screw, then carefully pull the nose fairing forward while snaking the cable out (s-shaped path around the right front speaker enclosure) and checking for any missed electrical connections. From here, cable and/or headlight housing replacement is obvious.