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post #1 of 6 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 9:00 pm Thread Starter
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Sticky Stud Stumps Me

I'm "ripping" off my final drive to fix it. Everything has come off so far just as described in the shop manual with a couple exceptions. The two screws holding the brake rotor on seems to be only hand tight and the floating stud lock nut on the wheel side of the drive took very little force even though the book warned about high torque needed.

As my luck runs though, the last bolt - the fixed stud on the outside - seems to be welded in place. It uses a 15mm hex. I've tried a soft hammer on the hex wrench. A heat gun and even a blow torch for a short moment. Then a steel hammer on the hex wrench. I'm a bit nervous because it looks almost like an aluminum nut instead of steel.

Any and all advice for breaking this loose is appreciated.

Thanks - Jack
2000 K1200LT (still hurting)
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post #2 of 6 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 10:15 pm
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Try a piece of pipe slipped over the hex wrench (which should be a 12MM). It is a high torque item just like the lock nut should have been(160Nm). Hopefully no one has used locktite on this as it will be tough to get it free.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #3 of 6 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 10:58 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Try a piece of pipe slipped over the hex wrench (which should be a 12MM). It is a high torque item just like the lock nut should have been(160Nm). Hopefully no one has used locktite on this as it will be tough to get it free.
Sorry, you're right it's 12mm. I'll have to find a pipe and give it a try. Thanks!

-- Jack
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post #4 of 6 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 11:27 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Try a piece of pipe slipped over the hex wrench (which should be a 12MM). It is a high torque item just like the lock nut should have been(160Nm). Hopefully no one has used locktite on this as it will be tough to get it free.
John - That did the trick! I took my hydraulic lift handle and used that. The only problem was that I forgot I didn't have a rear wheel on and almost tipped the bike over backwards! Then I stood up and held up the back of the bike while stepping on the handle and it finally gave way. Wow was it in tight.

Thanks for your help!

Cheers - Jack
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post #5 of 6 Old Oct 5th, 2006, 7:57 am
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You do have the cut - away 30 MM socket to torque (160 Nm)the jam nut WHILE holding the lightly torqued (7 Nm)pin? Glad the bike didn't tumble on you. Good point to remember - place a block under the rear drive before popping the pin.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #6 of 6 Old Oct 5th, 2006, 3:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Good point to remember - place a block under the rear drive before popping the pin.
When I took mine off it wasn't 'too' tough but still had to use a pipe.. and the bike did hop around on the center stand... a block of wood under the rotor would keep the bike steady and not damage the rotor.

Jack D. (Southern Connecticut)
2001 Black LTC
2015 Blue R1200GSA
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