Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud...Groan! - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 2:05 pm Thread Starter
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Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud...Groan!

Howdy all:

Got the bike apart, installing High Beam HID, doing service work, etc.

Since most of the tupperware is off I'm looking around. Well, what do I see?

First cylinder exhaust flange ONLY has ONE nut! The other is missing along with 1/2" of the stud.

Anyone have experience with this? Or better, taken a stud out of the LT before?

Conventional wisdom is to use a liberal amount of penatrating oil, for days, then grab it and twist to see what happens! The resulting action then leads to euphoria or agony....

Any suggestions, please...?

J. Averill Townsend
Bloomfield Hills, MI


IBA# 24374

2002 K1200LTC - Silver
1978 R100/7 - Very, very Black
2004 Bushtec Quantum - Silver, of course...(SOLD)

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post #2 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 3:36 pm
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Broken studs

I broke both my front studs when changing the clutch. They are 8 mm studs but lose so much material to rust they are probably about 6 mm. If there is still enough showing use a stud extractor and lots of heat. Do you have the equipment to weld a piece of metal to the remaining stud? The heat would help free it up and the metal would give you leverage. While the exhaust is off replace the other front stud, the rest do not seem to suffer as much. If it breaks of flush let me know and I will explain what I did. Good luck.

Graham Wintersgill
On the bonnnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond

2001 K1200LT

1995 K75RT now deceased
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post #3 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 4:42 pm
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by grahamw
I broke both my front studs when changing the clutch. They are 8 mm studs but lose so much material to rust they are probably about 6 mm. If there is still enough showing use a stud extractor and lots of heat. Do you have the equipment to weld a piece of metal to the remaining stud? The heat would help free it up and the metal would give you leverage. While the exhaust is off replace the other front stud, the rest do not seem to suffer as much. If it breaks of flush let me know and I will explain what I did. Good luck.
J is lucky he has something to grab hold of. I have the same stud broke flush to the head not a thing to grab. I did try to weld to the stud and grab it but to no avail.
What did you do ? Left hand drill bit etc..

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
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post #4 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 5:21 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply guys! I'm lucky as there is plenty to grab hold of...

But, I don't understand the heat deal. Wouldn't any heat also expand the stud and make it harder to remove? I was thinking of heating the head and trying to COOL the stud!?

I have it bathing in penatrating oil, hopefully that will start the loosening process.

J. Averill Townsend
Bloomfield Hills, MI


IBA# 24374

2002 K1200LTC - Silver
1978 R100/7 - Very, very Black
2004 Bushtec Quantum - Silver, of course...(SOLD)

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post #5 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 5:29 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JATownsend
Thanks for the reply guys! I'm lucky as there is plenty to grab hold of...

But, I don't understand the heat deal. Wouldn't any heat also expand the stud and make it harder to remove? I was thinking of heating the head and trying to COOL the stud!?

I have it bathing in penatrating oil, hopefully that will start the loosening process.
The heat will cause the hole to expand more than the stud and thereby loosen the stud. I'm not sure but I think the head is aluminum which will also expand more than the steel stud. However, the aluminum can not tolerate as much heat as a steel head so be careful.

I'm sure someone will respond with details about the head material.

I have heard quite a few people rave about PB Blaster penetrating oil with I think is available at Walmart and lots of Auto stores. I bought some but haven't had a need to try it yet.

Kevin

1999 K1200LT, patiently waiting for a new model.
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post #6 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 5:42 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincook
The heat will cause the hole to expand more than the stud and thereby loosen the stud. I'm not sure but I think the head is aluminum which will also expand more than the steel stud. However, the aluminum can not tolerate as much heat as a steel head so be careful.

I'm sure someone will respond with details about the head material.

I have heard quite a few people rave about PB Blaster penetrating oil with I think is available at Walmart and lots of Auto stores. I bought some but haven't had a need to try it yet.

Kevin
Kevin:
Thanks for the metallurgy reply...makes sense now. But, I'm really happy about the PB Blaster. I'm outta' here for Walmart!

J. Averill Townsend
Bloomfield Hills, MI


IBA# 24374

2002 K1200LTC - Silver
1978 R100/7 - Very, very Black
2004 Bushtec Quantum - Silver, of course...(SOLD)

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post #7 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 6:21 pm
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Might want to -v e r y- carefully grind a little flat spot on either side of said stud to help grip. If you have pulled the header be sure to cover the open exhaust ports to mitigate dirtying the cylinders

Keith
San Diego
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post #8 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 7:12 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JATownsend

Anyone have experience with this? Or better, taken a stud out of the LT before?

I had my '99 LT in for slave cyl. replacement and the dealer found that a front exhaust stud was replaced with a bolt! I guess the previous owner had his own method for fixing this problem.

Dave
'06 K1200LT
'93 K1100LT (Hers)
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post #9 of 12 Old Oct 1st, 2006, 8:00 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbushey
I had my '99 LT in for slave cyl. replacement and the dealer found that a front exhaust stud was replaced with a bolt! I guess the previous owner had his own method for fixing this problem.
Hell, did it Work!

J. Averill Townsend
Bloomfield Hills, MI


IBA# 24374

2002 K1200LTC - Silver
1978 R100/7 - Very, very Black
2004 Bushtec Quantum - Silver, of course...(SOLD)

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post #10 of 12 Old Oct 2nd, 2006, 9:06 am
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Broken stud

Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
J is lucky he has something to grab hold of. I have the same stud broke flush to the head not a thing to grab. I did try to weld to the stud and grab it but to no avail.
What did you do ? Left hand drill bit etc..
Swore - a lot. I do not think this actually helped any but I felt better.

If it happened again the first thing I would try is to use a Dremel to cut a slot
then use plenty of release oil and some heat before using a screwdriver to try and undo it. An impact driver might work better but may just chew up the slot.

I drilled mine out but had to use a right hand drill as I did not have a left
hand drill (I am going to get some). I found an offcut of timber and using the
exhaust marked where the studs are. I then used a pillar drill to drill holes so
that it would fit over the back 3 studs (8 mm) and act as a guide for drilling
the front stud. You may have to grind away part of the stud so you have a flat surface to drill against and 6 mm would probably be a good size to start with.

I managed to create a hole and get it part threaded as I did not have the proper taps. I put some chemical metal into the hole and fitted the stud. It seems to be holding but I did not torque it up to much. I also reckon that as the headers are all in one piece the other 7 good studs should help keep everything in place.

Graham Wintersgill
On the bonnnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond

2001 K1200LT

1995 K75RT now deceased
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post #11 of 12 Old Oct 2nd, 2006, 12:03 pm
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I believe the reason for heating rusted nuts and bolts is that it breaks down or disrupts rust crystals. The same reason one heats Lock Tite. It re-arranges the crystals the fluid creates when exposed to oxygen.

Bob
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post #12 of 12 Old Oct 2nd, 2006, 8:28 pm
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Thumbs up

Grahm , thanks for the feedback

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
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