It still isn't the cable, or, can I change my last name now? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Sep 25th, 2006, 5:15 pm Thread Starter
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It still isn't the cable, or, can I change my last name now?

Hi, Folks. Ok, here goes part 2 of my trouble with the anti lock brake sensor cable.

As a reminder, two days after getting back from CCR without any troubles with the LT at all, I pulled out of the garage to see that the brake system completes the self test, but does not complete the pull a way test. Applying the brakes results in the general warning light coming on and the brake / anti lock warning light flashing at the slow, 1 hz cycle. According to the chart in the owners guide book, that means that at least 1 anti lock circuit is not working. Driving out to Beemers and More, I saw the speedometer flip flop and quit working. I immediately surmised that the fault was in the rear wheel speed sensor cable breaking. When next I looked down, the speedometer was working again. !!!!!!!

So, I removed the sensor, checked for chafing in the outer cable, removed sections of the outer cable to check for chafing of the inner wires. I rigorously checked the continuity of each wire, end to end and across the sensor. With help, I checked the continuity of both wire/circuit scenarios within the cable while the entire cable was repeated flexed to see if there was an intermittent break. No such break was detected, not was a broken wire ever detected. So, after learning that yes, shrink wrap can be over heated, I repaired the cable insulation and reinstalled the sensor and cable on the bike.

And of course, it doesn't work! The pull a way test doesn't complete and the speedometer isn't working.

Now, please note the following observations:

1) across the two prongs inside the sensor cable plug, I see 25.60 m ohms resistance. If the one or both wires inside of the cable was broken, then there would be infinite ohms. If one wire inside of the cable was shorted to the other, I would see a shorted continuity, i.e. little or no ohms resistance.
2) while slowly rotating the rear wheel with the sensor installed, I see no change in resistance of the sensor/cable. It seems to me that I read on the archived posts a comment from Mr. Shealy that there should be a change in resistance shown by the sensor as the segments on the wheel ring pass in front of the sensor.
3) the rear wheel brake reservoir has been carefully filled to exactly the max mark. This with the bike on the center stand in the garage on the level garage floor. I see no level marks relative to the rear fill cap on the rear wheel brake circuit reservoir. It appears that the brake fluid level is consistent all across the reservoir, front to back.
4)During the test ride, the brake warning light indicated that the system self test is completed and the pull a way test does not complete.
5) Both front and rear wheel sensors have been cleaned of all debris and the rear wheel sensor has been tested with both all three original spacers in place and with only two spacers. No difference in result.
6) I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery for close to an hour to allow the onboard controllers to reset to default condition and to clear any codes. I carefully followed the switch on, open throttle fully twice before starting and test riding.\
7) The brake servo boosters are working.
8) the battery tender is plugged in at all times the bike is parked in the garage.
9) the sensor cable connector plug is firmly inserted in the harness connector and the retainer clip is double checked to be engaged.

I'm inclined to suspect that the sensor on the rear wheel has failed and is not sensing the segments on the wheel ring passing in front of it. Or, the anti lock controller has failed. I truly wish that our community's experts would throw in on this as I'm at a lost and the local BMW dealer wants $90 to hoot the bike's moronic box to their diagnostic guesser to read any codes. If I have to resort to either the official dealership, or my shop, the problem will not be fixed for many months and the bike won't be ridden because I cannot afford to spend several hundred dollars on repairs.

Well, that's all I can recall to report on this problem. I want to express my appreciation to all who offered ideas and support when I first brought this problem to the community the first time.

Thanks again in advance for all advice and help.

Puzzled Karl

Disreputable Rode Hard & Put Up Wet Old Deadbeat Geezer
"We're all here because we're not all there"
--Ken & Gene Hunt
'09 Aprilia Scarabeo 500ie -- QuickSilver II
'02 LTE Silver -- Retired
'02 LTC Mauve -- RIP
2009 Subaru WRX, Stage 1 269 whp, 293 ftlb - INTERCEPTOR
2003 Ford Focus, 220 hp @ wheels 180 ftlb torque @ wheels - Traded
Northern Colorado
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post #2 of 9 Old Sep 25th, 2006, 6:42 pm
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ABS sensor fail.

Greetings Karl.

What you described in your last large paragraph is pretty much the problem I had with my rear ABS sensor. I had it removed and put onto an oscilloscope (please excuse my spelling...what a word). Long story short, what the ABS diagnostic tech. told me was that the small magnets in the end of the ABS sensor that monitor the rotation of the ABS sensor ring had died and no longer could sense the rotation of the ring. Replacement time.

Here in Australia, the ABS sensors for my '99LT cost about AU$250 each. Yeah, pretty rude hey!

Keep me informed with your findings Karl, I'm most interested.

Good luck and kindest regards

Paul Harrington
AU
[email protected]

1999 K1200LT Champagne "Bismarck"
1983 base K100 "Bavarian Belle"

Last edited by harrowbmw; Sep 25th, 2006 at 6:43 pm. Reason: spelling...as usual
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post #3 of 9 Old Sep 25th, 2006, 7:25 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrowbmw
Greetings Karl.

What you described in your last large paragraph is pretty much the problem I had with my rear ABS sensor. I had it removed and put onto an oscilloscope (please excuse my spelling...what a word). Long story short, what the ABS diagnostic tech. told me was that the small magnets in the end of the ABS sensor that monitor the rotation of the ABS sensor ring had died and no longer could sense the rotation of the ring. Replacement time.

Here in Australia, the ABS sensors for my '99LT cost about AU$250 each. Yeah, pretty rude hey!

Keep me informed with your findings Karl, I'm most interested.

Good luck and kindest regards

Paul Harrington
AU
[email protected]
Hi, Paul. Oh, I can only wish it's the wheel sensor. Me, my luck and last name, it will be all 3 computers, the servo pumps, the top case latch AND the final drive bearing all making the @#$%@#[email protected]@ thing quit and have to be replaced. Whatever it turns out to be will be reported here.

Rain Clouded Karl

PS: I wonder if when I pay for the parts vaseline will be included? Maybe a smile and a promise to call in the morning?

K

Disreputable Rode Hard & Put Up Wet Old Deadbeat Geezer
"We're all here because we're not all there"
--Ken & Gene Hunt
'09 Aprilia Scarabeo 500ie -- QuickSilver II
'02 LTE Silver -- Retired
'02 LTC Mauve -- RIP
2009 Subaru WRX, Stage 1 269 whp, 293 ftlb - INTERCEPTOR
2003 Ford Focus, 220 hp @ wheels 180 ftlb torque @ wheels - Traded
Northern Colorado
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post #4 of 9 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 9:38 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmurphy165
Hi, Paul. Oh, I can only wish it's the wheel sensor. Me, my luck and last name, it will be all 3 computers, the servo pumps, the top case latch AND the final drive bearing all making the @#$%@#[email protected]@ thing quit and have to be replaced. Whatever it turns out to be will be reported here.

Rain Clouded Karl

PS: I wonder if when I pay for the parts vaseline will be included? Maybe a smile and a promise to call in the morning?

K
Hey, Karl - did we ever git a final on your LT glitches? I searched around and didn't find a summation of the solution. Oops if I missed it, and I hope it got resolved to your satisfaction. Double ooops if it'sa a sore thorn; still ongoing and is becoming a wintertime project. Just wuz thinkin' aboutcha and curious, if not downright nosey!!

Best.
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post #5 of 9 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 10:02 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmurphy165
Hi, Paul. Oh, I can only wish it's the wheel sensor. Me, my luck and last name, it will be all 3 computers, the servo pumps, the top case latch AND the final drive bearing all making the @#$%@#[email protected]@ thing quit and have to be replaced. Whatever it turns out to be will be reported here.

Rain Clouded Karl

PS: I wonder if when I pay for the parts vaseline will be included? Maybe a smile and a promise to call in the morning?

K
Karl, David Shealey once posted a good diagnostic trick -- if I remember it correctly, if turn on your ignition and then hold a soldering gun near the cable (obviously, taking care to not incinerate anything! ), the 60 cycle electricity flow in the gun should cause the speedo to jump up to a steady value. If this is the case, then you know everything upstream of the sensor is working, and it's time to give sensor replacement a try.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #6 of 9 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 12:34 pm Thread Starter
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick
Hey, Karl - did we ever git a final on your LT glitches? I searched around and didn't find a summation of the solution. Oops if I missed it, and I hope it got resolved to your satisfaction. Double ooops if it'sa a sore thorn; still ongoing and is becoming a wintertime project. Just wuz thinkin' aboutcha and curious, if not downright nosey!!

Best.
Hi, Dick. No, no progress. I have a new sensor cable on order from Beemerboneyard. I can't afford a new cable/sensor from the dealer even though they promised to smile and call me in the morning. So, the LT sits in the garage on the battery tender while one of the best autumns for riding goes wasted. Ain't it just special????

Grumblin' Karl

Disreputable Rode Hard & Put Up Wet Old Deadbeat Geezer
"We're all here because we're not all there"
--Ken & Gene Hunt
'09 Aprilia Scarabeo 500ie -- QuickSilver II
'02 LTE Silver -- Retired
'02 LTC Mauve -- RIP
2009 Subaru WRX, Stage 1 269 whp, 293 ftlb - INTERCEPTOR
2003 Ford Focus, 220 hp @ wheels 180 ftlb torque @ wheels - Traded
Northern Colorado
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post #7 of 9 Old Oct 4th, 2006, 12:44 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
Karl, David Shealey once posted a good diagnostic trick -- if I remember it correctly, if turn on your ignition and then hold a soldering gun near the cable (obviously, taking care to not incinerate anything! ), the 60 cycle electricity flow in the gun should cause the speedo to jump up to a steady value. If this is the case, then you know everything upstream of the sensor is working, and it's time to give sensor replacement a try.
Hi, Mark. Being careful standing on chairs these days? I worry about you getting bucked off without me there to ballast the chair for you.

Now there's an excellent idea. I'm not too worried about incinerating the old cable. It looks like a length of sausages linked together with all the removed cable sheathes patched with heat shrink. So, a scorch mark here or there won't hurt.

Mr. Shealey, do you recall the post Mark's referring to? I have a light duty soldering iron suitable for small wire soldering, not trying to light up the nearby radio telescope. Please advise, if you will, about the details of this diagnostic.

The other marvelous things is with my Negative Mechanical Karma, the manifold ways this diagnostic could literally blow up in my face. Mark, remember a couple of years ago, I warned you to be watching the western skies for a faint glow? You might prepare to keep watch again. I'll give you as much warning as possible.

Bunker Preppin' Karl

Disreputable Rode Hard & Put Up Wet Old Deadbeat Geezer
"We're all here because we're not all there"
--Ken & Gene Hunt
'09 Aprilia Scarabeo 500ie -- QuickSilver II
'02 LTE Silver -- Retired
'02 LTC Mauve -- RIP
2009 Subaru WRX, Stage 1 269 whp, 293 ftlb - INTERCEPTOR
2003 Ford Focus, 220 hp @ wheels 180 ftlb torque @ wheels - Traded
Northern Colorado
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post #8 of 9 Old Nov 6th, 2009, 11:01 am
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Re:ABS BRAKE WARNING WITH SPEEDO FAIL

Hi Karl and Co,
I have an 02 model with exactly the same problem and would be so interested to find out exactly what the problem is. The wiring on my ABS sensor is intact but I cannot get a reading when I put an OHM meter accross the terminals. I am very tempted to buy a rear ABS sensor.I think I should be getting some sign of resistance accross the terminals.I have seen a guide figure of 50 OHM`s for a car ABS sensor on ohmtest.com. Have also put a new battery in it as that seems to be the usual problem.
ANY HELP OUT THERE IN CYBERSPACE ???

Paul in Ireland
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post #9 of 9 Old Nov 13th, 2009, 8:16 am
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Re: It still isn't the cable, or, can I change my last name now?

Hi Karl,
had exactly the same problem as you...Speedo fail and ABS brake fail light.
Just fitted a new rear ABS sensor(easy DIY job) and my problem is cured.

Cheers
Paul
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