Clutch Replacement - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 38 Old Feb 15th, 2016, 2:31 pm Thread Starter
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Clutch Replacement

It's time for a new clutch. In firth gear cruising around 4,500 RPM I can nail the throttle wide open and it starts slipping. No evidence of the slave cylinder leaking, I think after 70k miles it's wore out. I can't complain this is the first time I have ever had to do anything to the bike other than normal maintenance. Other than the clutch and slave cylinder what else should I replace while I have it a part? Where is the best place to order the parts? I have some Spiegler brake lines that I was going to install during my next 12K service that I will be installing while doing the clutch and I'm going to get some Wilber shocks as well. Any suggestions on were to buy the Wilbers shocks? Thanks for the advice.

2006 Ducati ST3
2006 BMW K1200LT
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post #2 of 38 Old Feb 15th, 2016, 3:24 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEXYDUC View Post
It's time for a new clutch. In firth gear cruising around 4,500 RPM I can nail the throttle wide open and it starts slipping. No evidence of the slave cylinder leaking, I think after 70k miles it's wore out. I can't complain this is the first time I have ever had to do anything to the bike other than normal maintenance. Other than the clutch and slave cylinder what else should I replace while I have it a part? Where is the best place to order the parts? I have some Spiegler brake lines that I was going to install during my next 12K service that I will be installing while doing the clutch and I'm going to get some Wilber shocks as well. Any suggestions on were to buy the Wilbers shocks? Thanks for the advice.
Hey Tim, not entirely new with 24 posts but welcome anyways.

Most people decide to refresh the seals from the rear main seal in the block back through the 3 main transmission seals, which includes the trans input and output shaft seal and the slave cylinder seal.

Most will recommend you use an aftermarket Viton O-ring to seal between the crankshaft and the clutch basket rather than the buna-N OEM O-ring. If you have been doing any reading, you will have come across that item mentioned often in other clutch threads as it has a higher operating temp and will last longer in the duty it is subjected to than the OEM.

Many here use MAX BMW and order the parts directly from them. I did and they are prompt and friendly. As another member here said, my favorite source of M&M's.

Can't help you on the shocks. I will be looking for some at some point myself.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #3 of 38 Old Feb 15th, 2016, 3:54 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Buy the Wilber shocks from Ted Porters beemer shop. Call him and he will talk you through what will work for you. He is good and so are the Wilbers.
As mentioned there is a wave of clutch jobs and rear seal/O-ring replacements. This is the time to change out a multitude of rubber parts in there. The crankcase breather tube, seals already mentioned, intake seals and others. Take photos, take notes, Use the Clymer manual. The other thing to keep in mind the pressure plate and clutch basket tend to wear in a dish shape. You need a straight edge to put across them to determine if you need new hard parts. If it is more than a few thousandths, spring for the parts. You will need a new spring plate too, also the nut and washer on the crank shaft. If you don't want to buy from your local dealer buy on line through their parts section with diagrams MAX bmw
Here is one thread of many that will let you know what is ahead.
GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com
There are several threads on this forum with folks headed where you are going in just the past couple of months. If you want a Viton oring, send me your address. beech
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post #4 of 38 Old Feb 18th, 2016, 4:48 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I have researched this forum and watched some of the youtube videos and think I'm ready to tackle my clutch. I have the majority of the tools or can make my own. If anyone has the 30mm cutaway socket they would like to sell or loan me I would really appreciate it. I should be ordering the parts soon.
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post #5 of 38 Old Feb 18th, 2016, 6:55 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEXYDUC View Post
I have researched this forum and watched some of the youtube videos and think I'm ready to tackle my clutch. I have the majority of the tools or can make my own. If anyone has the 30mm cutaway socket they would like to sell or loan me I would really appreciate it. I should be ordering the parts soon.
Tim, I believe Beech makes them for sale. He posted a link on another recent clutch thread for someone also looking for the socket. Check this out if you don't want to make your own.

30mm deep socket with side window cut out - I-BMW Classifieds

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #6 of 38 Old Feb 29th, 2016, 1:37 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I bought an 05' with 98k miles as a project bike, it's my 3rd k1200lt. I bought the bike knowing it needed a clutch. The previous owner had started to replace the clutch, but barely got past the skin during the surgery before he realized he was in way over his head. I bought the bike on the cheap, and bought a 2003 parts bike the following week when I picked up a new Odyssey battery I had purchased from a local guy off of eBay.

I disassembled the parts bike to get the new clutch (2k mi) from it, along with copious accessories I'll be using on the 05'.

I just got to the clutch on the 05', and realize the clutch still isn't really that worn, but the rear main seal has failed, 2 of 3 transmission seals are leaking, and it looks like the clutch slave cylinder is leaking as well.

Questions:

I've read that a new clutch plate is 6 mm thick is this true?

I plan to use the nearly new clutch plate from the 03', but would the clutch plate that has been saturated in oil be of any use perhaps at a later date if it were cleaned (presumably with brake clean)?

Where can I purchase the seals that I need? I believe that I want the Viton variety.

Can the slave cylinder be rebuilt, or does it have to be replaced?

Also the sprag gear is apparently gummed up, I've read that they should be replaced, not cleaned, does anyone have a materials/parts list for this task?

Both bikes have well documented maintenance history most of which was done by bmw dealerships, other than some oil/air filter changes.

The 05' has a k & n (lifetime) air filter any thoughts about whether I should keep the k&n, or use the oem paper filter?

Any help is much appreciated! Dale
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post #7 of 38 Old Feb 29th, 2016, 2:12 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by superstan26 View Post
I bought an 05' with 98k miles as a project bike, it's my 3rd k1200lt. I bought the bike knowing it needed a clutch. The previous owner had started to replace the clutch, but barely got past the skin during the surgery before he realized he was in way over his head. I bought the bike on the cheap, and bought a 2003 parts bike the following week when I picked up a new Odyssey battery I had purchased from a local guy off of eBay.

I disassembled the parts bike to get the new clutch (2k mi) from it, along with copious accessories I'll be using on the 05'.

I just got to the clutch on the 05', and realize the clutch still isn't really that worn, but the rear main seal has failed, 2 of 3 transmission seals are leaking, and it looks like the clutch slave cylinder is leaking as well.

Questions:

I've read that a new clutch plate is 6 mm thick is this true?

I plan to use the nearly new clutch plate from the 03', but would the clutch plate that has been saturated in oil be of any use perhaps at a later date if it were cleaned (presumably with brake clean)?

Where can I purchase the seals that I need? I believe that I want the Viton variety.

Can the slave cylinder be rebuilt, or does it have to be replaced?

Also the sprag gear is apparently gummed up, I've read that they should be replaced, not cleaned, does anyone have a materials/parts list for this task?

Both bikes have well documented maintenance history most of which was done by bmw dealerships, other than some oil/air filter changes.

The 05' has a k & n (lifetime) air filter any thoughts about whether I should keep the k&n, or use the oem paper filter?

Any help is much appreciated! Dale
Hey dale, Let me answer a couple of your questions.
1. Yes, the new thickness of a friction disk is 6mm

2. I have not read of anyone suffering a slave or O-ring failure to reuse a saturated OEM friction disk. They are porous and getting all the oil out would be difficult at best and with the work involved, I don't think i ahve read of anyone who has taken that chance. They also wear in a dish pattern so old and old would be a bad combination if they were not worn that way together. They just replace without a second thought. If the hard parts are not worn, they can be cleaned sufficiently and used with a new friction disk.

3. The seals you need can be found on MAX BMW. There are parts lists on several threads. I don't have one handy to post but they are not hard to locate and confirm current number and price on MAX.

If you want the Viton 19x4 O-ring which I think most here would strongly recommend over the OEM, you can PM me with your address and I will drop one in the mail or you can find them online with a search. I have a few spares from my order of a bag of 10.

4. There is no current rebuild kit for the slave cylinder i have heard or read about so buy new from Beemer boneyard. About $60 cheaper and IS the OEM replacement from the manufacturer while they last. Once gone, they will be dealer only.

5. Haven't messed with the sprag gear yet so no help there.

6. There are several threads dealing with the K&N filter. Most here will opt for the paper filter over the K&N siting less dirt through and more protection of the nikasil coating of the cylinders.
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #8 of 38 Old Feb 29th, 2016, 5:02 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Loose the K&N filter. OEM is excellent. There is a thread on ibmw about clutch plate thickness that I can not find. The issue came up because the person doing the work bought an aftermarket clutch disc and the thickness would not allow the proper throwout length to occur. I believe it was too thick. If there is any oil on the clutch friction disk get a new one. Lots of labor here to mess around.
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post #9 of 38 Old Feb 29th, 2016, 5:22 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I thought as much on the clutch, but didn't want to waste unnecessarily. I also figured the oem filter would be better protection than the k&n. Thanks for the input!
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post #10 of 38 Old Feb 29th, 2016, 7:11 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

On the sprag unit you can clean it with a good carb cleaner or anything that will dissolve gum. Best to do this just before an oil change to get all the solvent out of the crankcase. In the cutaway photo you will see the sprag unit forward of the alternator. The middle ring has three holes in it and it is best to spray into each of those. Access by removing the crankcase cover.
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #11 of 38 Old Mar 4th, 2016, 9:23 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

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Originally Posted by SEXYDUC View Post
It's time for a new clutch. Where is the best place to order the parts?
Many on-line options. I have purchased from all these listed here. All have fast shipping.

https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fi...17&vin=ZD73637

beemerboneyard has the OEM Clutch Slave for about $104. BMW motorcycle parts, BMW motorcycle, Used BMW motorcycle parts, BMW motorcycle salvage

The best prices I have found are from BikeBandit.com (Just no M&M's) Free Shipping after $100.
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/...-k1200lt/o/m66
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post #12 of 38 Old Mar 5th, 2016, 9:33 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Hi there, new forum main page much better, been gone awhile from it. But got a question now.
My clutch does not slip when I goose it in 5th gear, it does however seem to slip (not always) under full throttle, merge highway etc. No doubt it must still be going right?
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post #13 of 38 Old Mar 5th, 2016, 10:19 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

There's really not enough info to say from my perspective. How many miles since clutch replacement?

Did you drill the weep holes? If so any leaks?

Was it strictly the friction clutch that was replaced? If not what was replaced?

I'm not certain of the process to properly bed in a clutch, or if it's even necessary, but I would do my best not to create unwarranted heat/friction until someone more knowledgeable is able to come in with all of the facts. I know that brake pads often become glazed if not properly bedded in which greatly reduces their friction.
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post #14 of 38 Old Mar 5th, 2016, 11:11 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by mexicoboy View Post
Hi there, new forum main page much better, been gone awhile from it. But got a question now.
My clutch does not slip when I goose it in 5th gear, it does however seem to slip (not always) under full throttle, merge highway etc. No doubt it must still be going right?

The proper test in 5th is get up to about 4,000 rpm in 5th and roll on the throttle. If the bike moves forward even with the rpms then the clutch is OK. If you are down shifting to pass and rolling the throttle on before the clutch is fully released it will slip. Always have your fingers off the clutch lever BEFORE you roll on the throttle.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #15 of 38 Old Mar 7th, 2016, 5:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I'm still needing the 30mm Cutaway socket if anyone has one they could sell or loan me I would appreciate it. I was told Beech sells them, I sent him a PM about a week a go and haven't got a response. I have all the parts and am ready to dive in.

2006 Ducati ST3
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post #16 of 38 Old Mar 7th, 2016, 6:28 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

You can start taking it apart without the cut-away socket. PM me you snail mail and I'll loan you one of mine.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #17 of 38 Old Mar 7th, 2016, 8:15 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I have them. I somehow missed your email, sorry. [email protected]
kit includes the window socket, 12mm allen wrench, some sealed capsules of blue Loctite and USPS priority mail. $30.

The whole engine seal/clutch replacement tool kit is available for free for a few weeks at a time. Postage each way via USPS priority mail is about $15, I send it to you, you send it back to me with $15 cash in side with the tools when finished. These are tools as mentioned in Clymers, rear main seal driver/set tool, rear main seal remover via slide hammer device if you have a slide hammer with a 5/8" shaft and other various things you would need to fabricate for the job. It includes a 19x4mm viton oring too.
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post #18 of 38 Old Mar 8th, 2016, 6:40 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I got an estimate from a local (non-BMW) shop to do a clutch replacement for 10 hours labor ($750) and I supply the parts, which is way better than the $2K BMW estimate.

The problem is with all this other stuff everyone is recommending while in there. I don't think that's part of either estimate and I don't know how much additional labor would be required to do those seals, slave cylinder, etc.

I'm thinking of buying the Clymer manual to see if I think I can do this myself.

My question is are all the parts available as a kit or is there some consolidated list of part numbers somewhere for all this?

Regards
Michael

Regards,
Michael

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post #19 of 38 Old Mar 8th, 2016, 9:08 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmnich View Post
I got an estimate from a local (non-BMW) shop to do a clutch replacement for 10 hours labor ($750) and I supply the parts, which is way better than the $2K BMW estimate.

The problem is with all this other stuff everyone is recommending while in there. I don't think that's part of either estimate and I don't know how much additional labor would be required to do those seals, slave cylinder, etc.

I'm thinking of buying the Clymer manual to see if I think I can do this myself.

My question is are all the parts available as a kit or is there some consolidated list of part numbers somewhere for all this?

Regards
Michael
Michael, I recently posted a list of things you could expect to replace while doing your own clutch replacement. It is not an exhaustive list of anything you could encounter like worn pivot bearings or pins but it is the clutch and major rotational seals you would want to refresh "while you are in there". It is enough of a bother to take it all apart that most decide to replace these things at the same time.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/...arts-list.html

In the above thread are pictures of the tools that aid in this process and diagrams of them are located on this site. The 30mm cut out socket is a must. Beech has the cutout socket and 12mm hex wrench as a kit to sell. There are a couple people here who loan out a complete tool set as long as you pay the postage if you are not able to make your own. The various videos on this site have tricks on how to set some of these seals without making the specific tools.

http://www.bmwlt.com/files/albums/us...LT%20Tools.pdf

There are some good videos of this process so you can see how much work it is and if you want to do it yourself. It just takes time like you have mentioned for the 10 hours shop time and it will likely take you much longer. Look at post 3 in this thread for the link Beech has for a good walk through with lots of pretty pictures.

Good luck

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #20 of 38 Old Mar 8th, 2016, 6:38 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I only replace seals that are leaking and never just pre-emptively. Too many ways to mess them up. But then that is just me.
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2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #21 of 38 Old Mar 9th, 2016, 6:29 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Nice list! So as not to hijack the thread (further!) I'm going to ask another question or two on the other thread.
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Regards,
Michael

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post #22 of 38 Old Mar 14th, 2016, 6:02 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

For SEXYDUC, here is the transmission F/R switch that should stay on the trany.

Leave 6, 7 & 8 on the shaft and disconnect the far end of the harness. the rest of that can come off. The switch is very easy to damage if you pull it from the shaft.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #23 of 38 Old Mar 14th, 2016, 7:53 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I got it, thanks a lot. I got the Final Drive and Swing Arm off tonight without any problems. Before I started on the clutch portion of this project I changed out the brake lines to Spiegler lines. I did the ones from the calipers to the ABS Controller and bleed them without any issues. I then changed the ones from the Master Cylinder to the hard lines. I'm having problems bleeding the front brake. I have done this many time on this bike as well as others and never had a problem, but for some reason I can't get this one to bleed. I have pushed a lot of fluid through it and it's still mushy. I zip tied the lever back to the handle bar over night and this seems to have helped so I'm doing it again tonight. My Wilbers shocks from Ted Porter should be here next week.

2006 Ducati ST3
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post #24 of 38 Old Mar 15th, 2016, 6:49 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I found it easier on the front to push the fluid from the ABS bleeder up to the reservoir on the handlebar. That does not work at all on the rear. The ABS is the end point for the fluid from that reservoir it does not go from there to the calipers. Two separate circuits.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #25 of 38 Old Mar 16th, 2016, 7:17 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I'm very close to getting the transmission out. I have watched all the videos I could find and read everything I can about this job but still have a couple of questions. Doe's the battery box have to come out? I took three fasteners out of it tonight and it looks like there is a lot more work involved to get it out I read the Central Texas Riders instructions and removed the upper radiator clips to allow the radiators to move if needed. Do I need to remove any of the hoses? I haven't drained the coolant, I just changed it recently. And last, I have read some remove the air box, fuel rail, ect. This looks like a harder job than changing the clutch? Thanks for the help.

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post #26 of 38 Old Mar 16th, 2016, 10:00 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEXYDUC View Post
I'm very close to getting the transmission out. I have watched all the videos I could find and read everything I can about this job but still have a couple of questions. Doe's the battery box have to come out? I took three fasteners out of it tonight and it looks like there is a lot more work involved to get it out I read the Central Texas Riders instructions and removed the upper radiator clips to allow the radiators to move if needed. Do I need to remove any of the hoses? I haven't drained the coolant, I just changed it recently. And last, I have read some remove the air box, fuel rail, ect. This looks like a harder job than changing the clutch? Thanks for the help.
The battery box does not need to come out. I left mine in completely. You just have to have enough clearance to either drop the engine or raise the frame enough to just clear the bottom of it. I braced the frame and used a screw jack to lower the engine.

The radiator clips need to be removed and the radiators pushed out of the supports to allow for the movement of the engine. No hoses need to be removed, just keep an eye on them so nothing binds.

The air box does need to come off to allow movement. I also pulled the throttle body off because I wasn't sure if the TPS on the back side of the TB would clear the frame. It might but you would have to watch while lowering to be sure you don't have to pop it off or wait to hear from someone who left it on with no issues. You might want to pull the TB off anyways even if it isn't required to properly inspect the breather tube on the back side to see if it needs to be replaced. Just take pictures of all the clamps and how they are positioned so you know how to replace them so they don't interfere with throttle operation.
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
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post #27 of 38 Old Mar 17th, 2016, 12:05 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

I wrote up some tear-down notes when I did mine last year... I loosened the clips on the 4 x breather hoses and let them slip out slightly... they just slipped back in when re-aligning the engine.
Can't attach the doc, its too big, but happy to email to you if you want to supply your email address

Chris
Sydney, NSW
2005 Dark Graphite Metallic K1200LT
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post #28 of 38 Old Mar 18th, 2016, 7:18 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Also replace the two front mount bolts (M 10) with 1/4 inch bolts and loosely secure them. This will give you lateral movement at the rear to clear the frame with the tranny.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #29 of 38 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 7:59 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

So I have the clutch and rear main seal kit, started to remove the rear plastics and seat yesterday, also wanted to share my version of a k1200 hoist I built out of 4x4 and 2x4 I had.
FYI 2 heavy duty ratchet straps added after this picture

Will be proceeding when I have time, and riding the k75 when I need to ride. Going to attempt the following next,
1. Pull rear wheel
2. Pull rear caliper
3. Pull rear speed sensor
4. Drain trans
5. Pull kick stand if needed
6. Pull clutch slave

Any other tasks needed, let me know, wanted to pull trans with shaft on it, then mess with splines after, any suggestions are welcomed
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2000 K1200LT & 86 K75 for fun again

Prev rides
1992 BMW K75
1994 Suzuki Intruder 1400
1985 Goldwing
1977 Yamaha RD400
1982 Honda MB5
1979 Yamaha XS 650

if it ain't fun, don't own it
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post #30 of 38 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 8:21 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

please email me your notes, thanks

[email protected]

2000 K1200LT & 86 K75 for fun again

Prev rides
1992 BMW K75
1994 Suzuki Intruder 1400
1985 Goldwing
1977 Yamaha RD400
1982 Honda MB5
1979 Yamaha XS 650

if it ain't fun, don't own it
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post #31 of 38 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 9:03 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEXYDUC View Post
It's time for a new clutch. In firth gear cruising around 4,500 RPM I can nail the throttle wide open and it starts slipping. No evidence of the slave cylinder leaking, I think after 70k miles it's wore out. I can't complain this is the first time I have ever had to do anything to the bike other than normal maintenance. Other than the clutch and slave cylinder what else should I replace while I have it a part? Where is the best place to order the parts? I have some Spiegler brake lines that I was going to install during my next 12K service that I will be installing while doing the clutch and I'm going to get some Wilber shocks as well. Any suggestions on were to buy the Wilbers shocks? Thanks for the advice.
I installed the Hyperpro shocks and springs on my 2005LT. Relatively straght forward job. They did stiffen the ride up a bit. Better performance in turns. The Hyperpros are less expensive than the Wilbers or Ohlins.

David W

2013 F800GT - sold
2005 K1200LT
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post #32 of 38 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 9:51 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinskg View Post
So I have the clutch and rear main seal kit, started to remove the rear plastics and seat yesterday, also wanted to share my version of a k1200 hoist I built out of 4x4 and 2x4 I had.
FYI 2 heavy duty ratchet straps added after this picture

Will be proceeding when I have time, and riding the k75 when I need to ride. Going to attempt the following next,
1. Pull rear wheel
2. Pull rear caliper
3. Pull rear speed sensor
4. Drain trans
5. Pull kick stand if needed
6. Pull clutch slave

Any other tasks needed, let me know, wanted to pull trans with shaft on it, then mess with splines after, any suggestions are welcomed
You have a Clymer manual, right?

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #33 of 38 Old Jun 8th, 2016, 7:05 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinskg View Post
So I have the clutch and rear main seal kit, started to remove the rear plastics and seat yesterday, also wanted to share my version of a k1200 hoist I built out of 4x4 and 2x4 I had.
FYI 2 heavy duty ratchet straps added after this picture

Will be proceeding when I have time, and riding the k75 when I need to ride. Going to attempt the following next,
1. Pull rear wheel
2. Pull rear caliper
3. Pull rear speed sensor
4. Drain trans
5. Pull kick stand if needed
6. Pull clutch slave

Any other tasks needed, let me know, wanted to pull trans with shaft on it, then mess with splines after, any suggestions are welcomed
You took the body work off the wrong end of the bike! You need to pull the front stuff off and the fuel tank so you can tilt the engine/transmission unit below the rear frame so the transmission can be pulled. See the many posts by Voyager.

Oh and nice stand by the way!
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #34 of 38 Old Jun 9th, 2018, 7:05 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

thanks all

Loansumrider: Jim
01 LT Fast Pacific Blue ... " The Goose "

? when to ASUME, and HOW MUCH should you ASUME, safely ?
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post #35 of 38 Old Jun 9th, 2018, 2:01 pm
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinskg View Post
So I have the clutch and rear main seal kit, started to remove the rear plastics and seat yesterday, also wanted to share my version of a k1200 hoist I built out of 4x4 and 2x4 I had.
FYI 2 heavy duty ratchet straps added after this picture

Will be proceeding when I have time, and riding the k75 when I need to ride. Going to attempt the following next,
1. Pull rear wheel
2. Pull rear caliper
3. Pull rear speed sensor
4. Drain trans
5. Pull kick stand if needed
6. Pull clutch slave

Any other tasks needed, let me know, wanted to pull trans with shaft on it, then mess with splines after, any suggestions are welcomed
You removed a lot of body work that you didn’t need to remove and have yet to remove the parts you do need to remove. I am not saying you can’t do this job without a service manual, but it will take much longer, you likely will break something like a radiator, air box, gear position switch, speed sensor, etc., and you likely will do a lot of post assembly troubleshooting to get everything working.

I wrote extensive posts with pictures when I did mine two years ago (time sure flies) as have several others. However, they are no substitute for a Clymer manual. I would buy the manual before proceeding further. It will be the best $50 you spend on your LT.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/...pair-saga.html
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #36 of 38 Old Jun 13th, 2018, 9:05 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Does anyone have a spare Viton 19x4 O-ring they can sell me. I only need one.

Ordered parts this morning for rear main replacement.

long time in process due to neck issues

Jim

Loansumrider: Jim
01 LT Fast Pacific Blue ... " The Goose "

? when to ASUME, and HOW MUCH should you ASUME, safely ?
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post #37 of 38 Old Jun 13th, 2018, 11:08 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

What is your address, I'll send you one for free.
<snipesb(at)cnw.com>

Beech
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I change your tires $50, you buy them on the web.
K13S, S1000R (gone through a few GS's & RT's)
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post #38 of 38 Old Jun 14th, 2018, 9:05 am
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by beech View Post
What is your address, I'll send you one for free.
<snipesb(at)cnw.com>
pm and email sent.... Thanks

Jim

Loansumrider: Jim
01 LT Fast Pacific Blue ... " The Goose "

? when to ASUME, and HOW MUCH should you ASUME, safely ?
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