I have been out of motorcycling for the last 6 years. I have had many H-D's, Honda's, 2002 RT-P, 2008 RT but this is my first ever K bike and I bought a project with 100k on the odometer. It appears to be mostly cosmetic but I was looking for any must do items that any of you feel you would do. I have a short list of a few mechanical necessitates I'm going to tackle over the next month before Michigan's riding season is in full bloom.
-complete fluid changes
-front tire (back is good)
-front brake lines
-all brake pads
-fuel quick disconnect
-fork seals (not leaking but with mileage)
-service the damper
She has no leaks, HID headlamp, everything works (radio not so well but its a BMW lol). I wrote a letter to the PO as I was unable to speak with him as I got this one from a friend at a car dealer. I am hoping to get some answers on service history.
Thanks in advance!
Welcome Jeff. What year is this beast and can you try and post a picture for us?
A service history goes a long way on these bikes especially in the areas of the clutch and clutch master cylinder as the seals in those areas can be troublesome. There is a troublesome O-ring sealing between the clutch basket and the main shaft that hardens and cracks causing leaks and clutch contamination. The community has decided that a Viton rather than the OEM Buna-N O-ring will provide better longevity and high temp resistance if you ever have to go in to do that job.
If you are going to do the front brake lines, do all of them. The OEM lines are rubber and disintegrate from the inside and can cause issues with the ABS system. Most put on Spiegler Stainless braided lines over replacing with stock and there is an LT kit with everything you need.
Make sure you go with the correct fuel filter as it is a high pressure system and i have heard of cheap filters bursting with non OEM and replace the rubber submersible lines while you have it out, not just the filter. It will save you grief later on as the ethanol now in fuels eats away and causes a failure inside the tank when the rubber line splits from degradation.
Pay careful attention to the gradoo on the final drive magnet when you change that. A fine powder sludge is fine but if you see any sparkles of larger bits then you may need to service that unit and at least replace the crown bearing. They fail in about 4% of the earlier bikes decidedly from over shimming at the factory. With 100K on the dial, if it was going to fail, it likely already has and may have had repair work done already. This is where the history also comes in handy.
Go watch all of Kirks videos. He has done a great job on lots of service and repair tasks. They are a must watch for new owners.
Maint./ Repair Videos
If you need to know about it, there is someone here that will likely have the answer. There is no better site on the planet for an LT owner so get her in shape and ride safely.