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post #1 of 17 Old Sep 12th, 2006, 8:22 pm Thread Starter
 
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Valves?

What...I have valves???? Yep almost forgot as my LT is super smooth at 18k and my last Guzzi had LOUD valves. Anyhow with the engine running like a sewing machine on steroids, when "IS" the best time to adjust the valves?
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post #2 of 17 Old Sep 12th, 2006, 8:52 pm
 
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In 137,000 miles on my 2000, I never adjusted them, but checked them starting at 12,000 miles, then slacking to 20,000 miles.
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post #3 of 17 Old Sep 12th, 2006, 9:11 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodoodrum
What...I have valves???? Yep almost forgot as my LT is super smooth at 18k and my last Guzzi had LOUD valves. Anyhow with the engine running like a sewing machine on steroids, when "IS" the best time to adjust the valves?
CHECK them every 12,000, but you don't "adjust" them until they measure out of tolerance. I had to adjust a couple at 24K. Not every 12K check after that needed adjustment, but by 85K all of them had been adjusted once.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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post #4 of 17 Old Sep 12th, 2006, 10:08 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Tim, makes me feel better. 137k and no adjustment is good news, but while the hood is up over the winter, I will run a feeler gauge in them.
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post #5 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 7:51 am
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With almost 36000 miles, she's going in the shop for a valve check on the 20th. My dealer (a good one I believe) said that they don't really need to be checked at 12000, but should have been checked at 24000 and every additional 12000. Like your's my LT is running better and better. The dealer said to check them anyway as a loose valve makes a little noise, but a tight valve does damage with no noise.

Brian
Fanwood, NJ
2003 K1200LT Anthracite

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post #6 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 8:20 am
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12,000 miles and 14 valves out of spec.

Guess I'm special.

Harumph.

Bruce.
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post #7 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 9:17 am Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys.... are there more detailed steps to follow other than the ones in the LT service manual? For instance, it says rotate the back wheel to spin the engine and cams. I assume in first gear of course, but what about releasing compression in order to spin the engine?
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post #8 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 9:42 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodoodrum
Thanks guys.... are there more detailed steps to follow other than the ones in the LT service manual? For instance, it says rotate the back wheel to spin the engine and cams. I assume in first gear of course, but what about releasing compression in order to spin the engine?
Put the transmission in FIFTH gear, you can bump the engine around very easily by rocking the rear wheel. It will not work easily in first gear, ratio too high.

DO NOT REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS! Removing the plugs can cause small flecks of carbon to be dislodged, possibly dropping into any open exhaust valves, and when you turn the engine if one of these flecks is trapped between the valve and valve seat you will get an incorrect reading. You may think the valve clearance is good, where when the carbon is blown out it may be too tight.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #9 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 10:40 am Thread Starter
 
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Thanks David

Do you work from the forward cylinder intake (top) and exhaust (bottom) to the rear OR run the intake valves front to back and then do the exhaust front to back?

Last edited by hoodoodrum; Sep 13th, 2006 at 10:49 am.
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post #10 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 12:18 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodoodrum
Thanks David

Do you work from the forward cylinder intake (top) and exhaust (bottom) to the rear OR run the intake valves front to back and then do the exhaust front to back?
I do one cylinder at a time, positioning the cams so that both lobes are pointing out at the same angle (approx. TDC for that cylinder)

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #11 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 12:19 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
Put the transmission in FIFTH gear, you can bump the engine around very easily by rocking the rear wheel.
I did a check/adjust as you suggest and found it took considerable effort to rotate the rear wheel in 5th gear. Got her done but I had to really muscle the wheel around.

"Smitty"
'07 GT CGM
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post #12 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 1:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool78
I did a check/adjust as you suggest and found it took considerable effort to rotate the rear wheel in 5th gear. Got her done but I had to really muscle the wheel around.
Don't try to just muscle the engine through compression. Grab the wheel and using the slack in the drive train just move it back and forth, "bumping" the engine through. Takes very little effort.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #13 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 4:34 pm
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I had 183k miles on the odo. I always had SJBMW do the 12k services and was "told" by my dealer that the valves never needed adjustment! Hmmmm... now that engine is toast. I wonder....

Cheers!

BTW: I should be back in the saddle in a couple of weeks! Yeehaw!!!

Bob Bacon
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'09 LT in Blk "Weave II" 120k miles before it was totaled
'00 LTC+ in CR "Weave" 240k miles before it was totaled
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post #14 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 5:31 pm
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Valves?

Bruce,

You're not all that special; I just had a 12K done on my 05 and BMW of Miami told me that seven of the valves needed adjustment. I kinda suspected I might be hearing some valve noise during the last 2-3k miles before the service.

Rick

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post #15 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 8:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium
Bruce,

You're not all that special; I just had a 12K done on my 05 and BMW of Miami told me that seven of the valves needed adjustment. I kinda suspected I might be hearing some valve noise during the last 2-3k miles before the service.
It would be very unusual to hear valve noise increase on the "Brick" engine. The valves invariably get tighter, thus less noise than when valve clearance is correct. It is exceedingly rare that valve clearance will open up, and if it does, there is something nasty going on, like cam lobe wear, or worse, cam bearing bore wear.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #16 of 17 Old Sep 14th, 2006, 4:30 pm
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Valves?

Thanks, David. I'm gonna find out which way they adjusted them. Having read that the LT does not ususally require valve adjustment at the 12k, I'm hoping this is not an omen of BAD THINGS.

Rick

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2011 Husqvarna TE630


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Last edited by niobium; Sep 14th, 2006 at 4:37 pm.
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post #17 of 17 Old Sep 14th, 2006, 6:19 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium
Thanks, David. I'm gonna find out which way they adjusted them. Having read that the LT does not ususally require valve adjustment at the 12k, I'm hoping this is not an omen of BAD THINGS.
It is not at all unusual to have to adjust TIGHT valves, but the comment about them sounding louder would mean LOOSE ones, which is extremely rare.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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