Has been about 30 years since I last owned a bike (was a Honda person from age 15 to 21ish. Purchased a 2002 KT1200LTC with 53K miles in "as is condition" Two weekends and hours watching Kurt's videos and reading this forum---first weekend---oil sight glass replaced (twice as shattered the first one by NOT sticking with the reverse end of a socket as directed; oil/air/fuel filter; oil/transmission fluid (lots of crud on the drain plug)/rear drive fluid; topped off the brake fluid; put Tupperware back on and went for test ride; pressed on rear brake and down it went and no return; stopped in drive way and brake fluid everywhere; pulled the rear brake panel and line had burst; ordered the Spieglers (an update to the info on Kurt's video---they now come with all new 14MM headed bangles in addition to the lines/crush washers; six total days from order to receipt; this weekend-replaced all the brake lines and bled/flushed the system; drilled out and reriveted the rear trunk handle with an unbroken used one; Also changed the headlight bulb with HID bulb; put 'r back together and my inaugural 40 mile ride completed; My question for you (all as a 1981 CB900 custom)---If riding at say 50mph in fourth or fifth gear and gun the throttle-bike acts like I am fiddling with the clutch ; normal shifting at the appropriate rpm renders expected results; Did I buy a bike with failing clutch/transmission?
On the most positive note -no flashing red lights on the dash after the brake line/bleed which is super confidence builder and that was 100% accomplished to multiple viewings of Kurt's doing the same on a 2004; did not see anything different on my 2002;
Only weather info is audible on the radio; right side lifting bracket busted (and missing) on the windshield.
Thank you in advance for any knowledge on the "slipping" if that is what it is....
Ron in Woodbridge, VA
Ron, Welcome to the forum. I used to live just up route 123 from you in Burk so I know the area well.
Sounds like this bike has many of the classic issues of an LT. Mine has many of them also. First thing I would do is drill the clutch housing weep hole and see if any oil comes out. If so, then your clutch is contaminated and will need to be replaced. If not, then you may have a worn out clutch and it will need to be replaced.
If you have watched the videos, contamination can come from 2 places, either the clutch slave cylinder is leaking forcing brake fluid into the clutch or the rear main seal and or the o-ring have failed allowing engine lube into the clutch cavity. If you find contamination, best to get as muchy of the potential leaks handles while you have it apart so you don't have to go back in. There are some special tools to position seals properly especially the transmission output shaft seal. Diagrams are available on this site if you have the capability to make them otherwise, possibly borrow them from another member.
The crud on the drain magnets isn't of that much concern unless you have flakes ( especially on the final drive) and not just oily metal powder. Check the FD for play by grabbing the wheel top and bottom and seeing if it rocks any. This would indicate possible excess wear on the crown bearing and I am sure you have read about that by now.
Sounds like you have most of the normal maintenance items already done though so figuring out the clutch is next. This site has all the experience and knowledge for you to take on anything you are comfortable with doing yourself so just ask and someone will likely step up and assist. You may even find someone fairly local to assist you.
Don't be afraid to ask Ron. They are wonderful bikes even if they have a few issues that crop up.