Jpeg bolt broken off in bumper - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 Old Sep 9th, 2006, 7:48 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Jpeg bolt broken off in bumper

Dumped the LT the other day, not the first time but the first time with the J Pegs deployed...guess what? They don't hold the big girl up!

Tried to back the bent bolt out yesterday and it did just what I was afraid of; non-threaded part came out real easily. Balance of bolt is of course still in the bumper...

Seems it would be easiest to remove the bumper prior to drilling? Afraid I will goober up the threads for the replacement bolt too. Wonder if I should take the bumper off and take it to a machine shop where they have a drill press.

Experiences and ideas??

Thanks, Tom

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 Old Sep 9th, 2006, 8:38 am
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwrubbercow
Wonder if I should take the bumper off and take it to a machine shop where they have a drill press.

Experiences and ideas??
Take the bumper to a local shop that has a drill press...definitely! That's a huge bolt so goobering up the threads shouldn't really be an issue for anyone that's even just half competent.
messenger13 is offline  
post #3 of 17 Old Sep 9th, 2006, 9:17 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Take the bumper to a local shop that has a drill press...definitely! That's a huge bolt so goobering up the threads shouldn't really be an issue for anyone that's even just half competent.
Thanks, Joe. That's how I have it figured too. As you say, thats a big bolt---and all I have is a hand power drill that will try to walk all over the place including the edges where the threads for the bolt are.

Tom

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 Old Sep 9th, 2006, 3:02 pm
Lifetime Supporter
 
chuckle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Friendswood, TX, USA
Posts: 161
bolt removal

Been there, done that. A good shop with a right angle air drill could drill a hole for an easy out but if you don't have access to the tools, the machine shop is the best route.

Chuck
chuckle is offline  
post #5 of 17 Old Sep 10th, 2006, 12:36 pm
Senior Member
 
petevandyke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 1,741
Hey, I auto-parked mine at the gas station when I stepped in spilled diesel that I didn't see, did the IDENTICAL thing yesterday, let me know how it goes?

[email protected]

========================================
When life throws you a curve, LEAN INTO IT!!!
2000 R1100RT-P...R.I.P. "Old motorcycle"
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2004 K1200LT "Lick and Tickle"
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


FU*K Cancer. If I have one more MRI, I'll stick to the refrigerator door.
petevandyke is offline  
post #6 of 17 Old Sep 10th, 2006, 6:45 pm
Senior Member
 
CharlieVT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: The Deep South of Vermont
Posts: 4,389
or DYI

Remove the component with the sheared off bolt, not likely you'll get much done with it on the bike.
Put it in a vice; no vice? put it on the garage floor and put a foot on it.
With a good center punch, pound a depression as close to the center of the sheared bolt as you can. This will guide your drill to keep it centered.
A hand held drill with a good high speed drill bit will work fine. Use a drill bit small enough to keep it well within the bolt (you don't want to run out into the machined aluminum tip-over structure.
Tap (hammer) an appropriate sized "easy out" into the hole you drilled into the sheared bolt.
Using a vice grip or other tool on the easy out, back out the broken bolt.
Pre-heating the whole thing before you try to back it out will help, as will a little penetrating oil on the thing.
The you can probably pick up the tools you might need for less than the machine shop bill, you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and you'll have the tools in the tool box.

I just had J-pegs installed at CCR (Thanks Raffy). I retract the pegs when getting off the highway. Just looking at them, I realized somethings gonna break if I drop the bike with the pegs extended.
CharlieVT is offline  
post #7 of 17 Old Sep 11th, 2006, 11:18 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieVT
Remove the component with the sheared off bolt, not likely you'll get much done with it on the bike.
Put it in a vice; no vice? put it on the garage floor and put a foot on it.
With a good center punch, pound a depression as close to the center of the sheared bolt as you can. This will guide your drill to keep it centered.
A hand held drill with a good high speed drill bit will work fine. Use a drill bit small enough to keep it well within the bolt (you don't want to run out into the machined aluminum tip-over structure.
Tap (hammer) an appropriate sized "easy out" into the hole you drilled into the sheared bolt.
Using a vice grip or other tool on the easy out, back out the broken bolt.
Pre-heating the whole thing before you try to back it out will help, as will a little penetrating oil on the thing.
The you can probably pick up the tools you might need for less than the machine shop bill, you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and you'll have the tools in the tool box.


I just had J-pegs installed at CCR (Thanks Raffy). I retract the pegs when getting off the highway. Just looking at them, I realized somethings gonna break if I drop the bike with the pegs extended.
Thanks Charlie, I am prob going to try it before I do the shop route. I have all the tools already except for the vise and the easy out (what exactly is that anyway)?

Tom

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
post #8 of 17 Old Sep 11th, 2006, 11:32 am
Senior Member
 
CharlieVT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: The Deep South of Vermont
Posts: 4,389
EasyOut/screw extractors

[QUOTE=bmwrubbercow]Thanks Charlie, I am prob going to try it before I do the shop route. I have all the tools already except for the vise and the easy out (what exactly is that anyway)?



I think EasyOut is a brand name of screw extractor that has name recognition like Scotch Tape.
Screw extractors are spiral or four sided hardened metal designed to engage a hole you have drilled in your broken fastener. It engages the hole so a left hand force is transmitted so you can (hopefully) unscrew the thing.

http://www.cvfsupplycompany.com/5pcscrewexse.html
http://www.globalair.com/discussions...icle~/msgID=17
http://www.brandsonsale.com/rid-01921.html
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/stuckscrews.html
CharlieVT is offline  
post #9 of 17 Old Sep 11th, 2006, 7:24 pm
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Wilmington, DE, USA
Posts: 92
Remove the bolt end from the top!

I had the same thing happen. An elk bent by J-Peg and the bolt sheared off. I drilled into the top of the bolt because the broken surface was very uneven. The Sears easy out did the trick. I just tapped it with a hammer and put a thread die handle on it and turned. The bolt came out clean as a whistle. I cleaned the threads and repalced the bolt. Good as new!

Carl

Carl
PATTI 2002 K12000LTC Toscanna Green
NO NAME 1993 FXDWG Red/Dk Red
carl_faller is offline  
post #10 of 17 Old Sep 12th, 2006, 8:41 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by carl_faller
I had the same thing happen. An elk bent by J-Peg and the bolt sheared off. I drilled into the top of the bolt because the broken surface was very uneven. The Sears easy out did the trick. I just tapped it with a hammer and put a thread die handle on it and turned. The bolt came out clean as a whistle. I cleaned the threads and repalced the bolt. Good as new!

Carl
I have not yet removed the bumper from the bike.. Maybe this weekend if the weathers not great for riding, then it will just have to wait...Anyway, I wondered if after the cover is removed, I could access the top of the bolt for same reason you indicated. Apparently so. I will give this a try for sure. My dad years ago taught me to learn to do some things for myself, the money you save will buy the tool, get the best one you can find for next time, etc. Of course that was back when you could go to the hardware store on the corner and get quality product AND advice. Try that at Wally world!. Sears I guess would still work.

Will let all know how it turned out.

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
post #11 of 17 Old Sep 13th, 2006, 5:35 pm
Senior Member
 
petevandyke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
Posts: 1,741
easy out...thanks to a half-assed install

thankfully the previous owner of my 04 didn't follow instructions and never used the loctite included in the install kit...when I started to drill, the clockwise motion of the carbide tipped drill bit actually twisted the chunk of bolt right out of the hole, leaving all of the threads in perfect shape.

By the way, I never removed anything but the plastic cover, just put on safety glasses and laid on my back, drilled from below and was happily surprised when the bolt chunk popped out and thumped me on the forehead.

========================================
When life throws you a curve, LEAN INTO IT!!!
2000 R1100RT-P...R.I.P. "Old motorcycle"
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2004 K1200LT "Lick and Tickle"
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


FU*K Cancer. If I have one more MRI, I'll stick to the refrigerator door.
petevandyke is offline  
post #12 of 17 Old Sep 14th, 2006, 9:47 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by petevandyke
thankfully the previous owner of my 04 didn't follow instructions and never used the loctite included in the install kit...when I started to drill, the clockwise motion of the carbide tipped drill bit actually twisted the chunk of bolt right out of the hole, leaving all of the threads in perfect shape.

By the way, I never removed anything but the plastic cover, just put on safety glasses and laid on my back, drilled from below and was happily surprised when the bolt chunk popped out and thumped me on the forehead.
Wonderful for you. I hope to have the same situation. Have been wondering about loc-tite. Did have a bolt on the right side (the one that serves as a stop for the deployed peg) simply fall out soon after I bought the bike. Hopefully installer did not use it on any of the other bolts either. And yes, I did go around and check torque on all bolts at that time. Considered loc-tite then, but realized I just might have this problem down the road. Glad I thought of that then.

And since I don't have a vice, am wondering if I could remove cover, leave bumper on bike and drill from the top thru the undamaged end of the bolt. Assuming that end is exposed, seems better to be drilling down from the top than up from the bottom through a deformed part of the bolt.

Haven't had time to start my project yet. Prob this weekend.

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 4:03 pm Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Thumbs up

Been awhile since I initiated this thread. Finally, I got around to making the fix..

The details which follow may bore the experienced but I know there are others which may well benefit from my experience, ad perhaps get a laugh out of my learning curve.

I have the satisfaction of learning a couple of new skills along the way too, but my fix was not quite so easy as several I read about. I also removed only the plastic. The broken bolt was so disfigured, I decided to leave the bumper on the bike and drill from the top. Punched the end of the bolt sticking up from the top, drilled approx half way down through the threaded part of the bolt. Drove a #2 screw extractor down into the hole and proceeded to try to screw the bolt DOWN from the top.

Extractor kept coming loose. Later learned it does not work that way. The extractor is made to back the bolt out only. It is reverse threaded. So I had to back it up and out through the top. (My old eyes could not see the thread pattern).

Sounds easy enough except in my case, I had so much metal filings in the threads, I may have driven my hole too deep, that it became very hard to turn the extractor. Became concerned that I would break it off in the bolt.

Then learned that the vice grips were not the best tool to turn the extractor with. Bought a small T handled tap wrench at Lowe's. Much better now, still extremely hard to turn bolt. Oil down the hole followed by two or so turns over a period of hours as I let the oil penetrate. Finally got it out only to find the new bolt would not tread into the hole. I did not bugger the threads with my drill, I'm sure of that. I think the difficult turning was caused by two factors. One the metal filings and two the extractor bites into the hole in the bolt prob. causing the bolt to bulge vry slightly as the extractor is turned.

Back to Lowe's for a tap. Used a crescent wrench to turn the well oiled tap and voila!! My bolt now fits perfectly!!

I do have one question as I have not yet re-assembled the J Peg. A spring fell out from under the bumper as I was driving the extractor into the top of the bolt. It appears that this spring fits a hole in the underside of the peg. Do I simply re-insert the spring upon assembly?? Or what??

Thanks,

Tom

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
post #14 of 17 Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 6:24 pm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 878
You should have the spring and a small ball bearing that functions as a detent for the Jpeg.

“Res ipsa loquitur, sed quid in infernos dicet?”

Alan Stuber
2003 K1200 LTC Titan Silver
Austin, Texas



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
astuber is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old Sep 24th, 2006, 11:06 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
bmwrubbercow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by astuber
You should have the spring and a small ball bearing that functions as a detent for the Jpeg.
Spring only fell out I think. Missing the bearing I guess..... Should I assume the spring goes in first with the bearing pressing down against the peg??

Where would one obtain the ball bearing and what exactly does it do??

Thanks, Tom

Tom

2003 R1150RT, Black Beauty--this is one sexy bike!
1999 R1100GSA, Does everything well, what else can one say?
1992 K75SA, If this engine had been 4-valve instead of 2, it would be the smoothest BMW ever built!
1978 R100S, my first and favorite BMW.
1976 R75/6, A 30 year old gentlemen I still love to take out for a Sunday ride.
bmwrubbercow is offline  
post #16 of 17 Old Sep 24th, 2006, 12:07 pm
Senior Member
 
Shogun54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Allen, TX, USA
Posts: 336
Spring first, ball closest to peg is correct. Try a GOOD hardware store. Neither Home Depot or Lowes carries this type of thing in my area, but our old-fashioned hardware store had them in various sizes; sorry, but I can't remember the diameter of the ball. Take the other one with you, or buy one of each size (they're cheap).

Brett

Get busy livin' or get busy dyin'!

2003 BMW K1200LTC "El Gato Grande"
1993 Suzuki GSXR1100W
1978 Suzuki GS1000C 'Project'
Shogun54 is offline  
post #17 of 17 Old Sep 24th, 2006, 12:38 pm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 878
I copied part of the instructions

Mount the J-Peg.
The 2 stop positions of the J-Peg are held with a spring & bearing detent mechanism. Use care in assembly – while inverted, the spring & bearing are held in place by the viscosity of the grease packing.
a. Make certain all threading is clean & free of debris. Apply no lubricants to the threaded parts. Lubricants will cause threadlocker failures.
b. Remove tape from 5/16” hole containing spring & grease packing on the bottom of the mounting plate. If the detent spring drops, add grease packing to top off the hole.
c. Slide a ½” shoulder bolt through the J-Peg bottom so that the threads extend out the top of the silver sleeve.
d. Apply a small amount of threadlocker to the threads.
e. Place a bearing in the grease packing over the spring in the mounting plate.
f. Carefully thread the J-Peg & bolt into the tapped hole closest to the bearing, then tighten. The collar must press the bearing into the hole & compress the spring. If the bearing does not follow into the hole, it will damage the mounting plate. Do not attempt to set the bearing on one of the collar detent holes and then try to “find” the spring hole.
g. Rotate the J-Peg until the indentation for the logo roundel would be just fully visible from above. This should expose the other tapped hole between the 2 “horns” at the J-Peg end. The shoulder bolt cylinder rides the arc between.
h. Apply threadlocker to the other bolt and tighten into the remaining tapped hole.


The bearing is 5/16".

HTH

“Res ipsa loquitur, sed quid in infernos dicet?”

Alan Stuber
2003 K1200 LTC Titan Silver
Austin, Texas



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
astuber is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the BMW Luxury Touring Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Broken Vanity Mirror, parts on-line? Hal9000 K1200LT 19 Oct 8th, 2011 7:22 pm
Mick-O-Pegs and JPeg removal fitsman Ergonomics & Rider Comfort 8 Jun 4th, 2006 7:04 am
XL Jpeg bad experience docwagner Ergonomics & Rider Comfort 22 Apr 18th, 2006 11:32 am
Bipartisan Bumper Sticker BobShirley Humor 10 Jan 30th, 2006 3:15 pm
fork/pinch bolt question kip K1200LT 2 Nov 10th, 2005 11:28 am

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome