Valve Adjustment Simplified?? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 5 Old Aug 31st, 2006, 5:23 pm Thread Starter
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Valve Adjustment Simplified??

This is my first BMW and I know that soon I will need to adjust valve clearances. I know they are shimmed and in the service manual it dictates removal of cams in order to change shims and adjust clearances.

I have done this service (many, many times) on other bikes that specifically called for cam removals, but there are specialty tools made that will let you depress the shim bucket (for lack of a better term) so you can remove the shim with a magnet and install the correct one - ALL WITHOUT REMOVING THE CAMS!

My question...is there any such beast for the K1200LT??? Here is a link that shows the tool I am refering to for the Kawasaki's and others. It is called the "motion pro" valve shim tool. http://www.sudco.com/29valveshims.html

Please let me know if you have ever heard of such a procedure.

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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post #2 of 5 Old Aug 31st, 2006, 6:05 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
This is my first BMW and I know that soon I will need to adjust valve clearances. I know they are shimmed and in the service manual it dictates removal of cams in order to change shims and adjust clearances.

I have done this service (many, many times) on other bikes that specifically called for cam removals, but there are specialty tools made that will let you depress the shim bucket (for lack of a better term) so you can remove the shim with a magnet and install the correct one - ALL WITHOUT REMOVING THE CAMS!

My question...is there any such beast for the K1200LT??? Here is a link that shows the tool I am refering to for the Kawasaki's and others. It is called the "motion pro" valve shim tool. http://www.sudco.com/29valveshims.html

Please let me know if you have ever heard of such a procedure.
There are no shims in the LT engine. The buckets themselves come in different sizes, so the whole bucket is swapped out. It is not that bad a job though, the cams come out pretty easily if the directions are followed, and you do not need the special alignment tool, just eyeball the flats on the rear of the cams square with the head surface. The tensioner hold back tool can be any 1/8" or 3MM rod, or as many have done the back end of a drill the appropriate size.

the buckets are around $13 each, but many dealers will swap take outs with you.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #3 of 5 Old Aug 31st, 2006, 7:04 pm
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Jack, this will help you a tad. While the instructions are for the K1200RS they apply.
Let us know how you did.

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post #4 of 5 Old Aug 31st, 2006, 7:56 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg
Jack, this will help you a tad. While the instructions are for the K1200RS they apply.
Let us know how you did.
Those instructions are fairly good, but there is one REALLY BIG error!

DO NOT remove the spark plugs before checking valve clearances!!!!! This is a big NO-NO, and is spelled out in the BMW service manual. When removing the plugs small particles of carbon are dislodged, and may fall into any open exhaust valve, and when you rotate the engine to check each cylinder's valve clearances any particle resting on the valve face or seat will hold the valve open slightly, and you will get a larger clearance reading than you would with the valve closed, causing you to think the clearance is larger than it really is.

If you are just checking valves, or even adjusting them, there is no need to remove the plugs at all.

Also, at the end, he does not say that after you put the sprockets back on and have removed the tensioner hold back tool, the cams should be in the correct position if you did not turn the engine after removing them. To fully check this, remove number one spark plug, and with a small rod or dowel pushed against the top of the piston rotate the engine one revolution (by rocking the rear wheel in the forward travel direction with the transmission in 5th gear) until the piston is back on top dead center and re-check the flats on the rear of the cams. If they are perpindicular to the head, you are good to go. It will be very visible if you are off even one tooth on a sprocket.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #5 of 5 Old Aug 31st, 2006, 8:57 pm Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Great Tips! Thanks so much!

That's what I love about this site. All the great advice and help. I currently own the BMW shop manual, but it had NO photos and VERY limited verbage so I wasn't even sure if the engine used shims or not. I wonder if the CLYMER manual is any better on certain tasks?

I worked on Japanese bikes for years...even a service manager at a shop. I have tons of tools and experience...enough to ask questions too! One day I will be familiar enough to help others as much as you guys help me.

I do LOVE riding and working on this bike more than any other I have ever owned. Didn't have it two weeks before I had all the tupperware off...rewired the auxilary lights...corrected stereo connections...gave it a complete service and a cannisterectomy...etc. My next task is to change/upgrade my shift linkage and do the EBS brake pad replacement. Just to note: I am currently running the EBS sintered pads...guess what...no noise from rear!!!
Thanks again everyone and God bless!

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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