Calling JZ calling JZ - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 12:00 pm Thread Starter
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Calling JZ calling JZ

John I need your help. My Powerlet outlet mounted in the tupperware just above the shifter does not have power. I tried it key on started and key off. The powerlet at the same location on the brake side is hot all the time. This bike has not been touched (farkle-wise) since it left the dealer. This must be a factory connection and the ad-ons (Garmin, moto-lights, etc) were installed by the dealer and work fine. I'm sure this outlet was factory installed. I use to charge the battery with that outlet but this past winter charger would not charge so switched to other side and it charged fine. I just can't find where the fuse is.

Thanks for your help in advance.

signed mechanically challenged

Scott
2007 LT

Last edited by norton; Jul 3rd, 2015 at 12:28 pm.
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post #2 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 1:31 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

They may have forgot to reconnect the power port if they had the lower left faring removed for farkelization. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think both power ports would be on the same fuse. So if one works, the other may not be connected.
In fact, anfter checking my clymer schematics, they should both be the same 15amp fuse.

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post #3 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 3:46 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Originally Posted by want2tour View Post
They may have forgot to reconnect the power port if they had the lower left faring removed for farkelization. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think both power ports would be on the same fuse. So if one works, the other may not be connected.Bob
I do not think they are on the same fuse as one is always hot and the other turns off with the key. I do not know if this is possible, but try to reach up under there and see if you can feel the connection to the plug.

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post #4 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 4:08 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

Both the lower powerlets are on the same fuse so as Bob indicated they may not have hooked the connector up last time that lower fairing was off.

John
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post #5 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 4:59 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Both the lower powerlets are on the same fuse so as Bob indicated they may not have hooked the connector up last time that lower fairing was off.
Thanks for the info, what has to come off to find that connection. Not sure where the connection is located as I'm a tupperware virgin and never seen her naked. It sounds like I'll be losing my virgin status. I never had the tupperware off so what pieces have to come off.

Thanks

Update:
Just laid on garage floor and stuck my finger in the hole behind the outlet and nothing connected to back of powerlet. Could not see the connector. Can you just take off the bottom tupperware ?

Scott
2007 LT

Last edited by norton; Jul 3rd, 2015 at 5:13 pm. Reason: stuck my finger in the hole and nothing connected
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post #6 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 5:12 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

You can reach into the back of the powerlet with your fingers from the lower tupperware opening to check if it is plugged in - nothing needs to come off. However, if it is unplugged, you may need to take off the tupperware to find out where the plug is hiding if you can't feel or see it with a small mirror and/or light...

Dave Beck
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post #7 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 5:41 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

This will give you an idea of where it might be. Should be able to see it in relation to the valve cover. To remove the lower you first need to remove the tip over black cover then the chrome cover. The rest will be obvious after that. You may see it up there and not have to remove the cover at all.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #8 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 6:04 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
This will give you an idea of where it might be. Should be able to see it in relation to the valve cover. To remove the lower you first need to remove the tip over black cover then the chrome cover. The rest will be obvious after that. You may see it up there and not have to remove the cover at all.
Thanks all, Now that I know it was just not plugged back in by the tech, I am confident I can handle this. Actually curious what the tupperware removal process is like since it is always the one PIA thing that everyone complains about. This will give me a small taste of whats involved. I also could have the dealer do it, but I think I really want to see what it is like to take it apart, am I crazy?

Thanks again this forum is the best!!!!!!!!!!

Scott
2007 LT
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post #9 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 6:59 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

Not crazy, just go and do it. You'll kick youself when you find out how easy it is.
But do yourself a favour, make a note or a template of where each screw comes out and what length they are, just to make sure they all go back in correctly.

That little connector is an easy one to miss and then have to go back in and reconnect.
Enjoy breaking your cherry..

Chris
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post #10 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 7:24 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Not crazy, just go and do it. You'll kick youself when you find out how easy it is.
But do yourself a favour, make a note or a template of where each screw comes out and what length they are, just to make sure they all go back in correctly.

That little connector is an easy one to miss and then have to go back in and reconnect.
Enjoy breaking your cherry..
Chris, just as a side note, the bike has been to the dealer, you know the screws are not in the right place.

Robert
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post #11 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 8:20 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

I'll have to look and see if I can find the template someone posted awhile ago because it was a really good tupperware template showing where all the different screws went. Now lets see how the search goes?
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Scott
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post #12 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 8:39 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

Does anyone know where this attached post tupperware removal doc came from? Is there one for the lower tupperware. Want to make sure BMW tech put them in the right place when I take it apart. Are all years the same? Thanks

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachme...ew-lengths.jpg

Scott
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post #13 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 11:41 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

The other power port, though being on the same 15 amp fuse, has to be simply routed through the ignition switch.
The rear power port only takes a 7.5 amp fuse, being the only port on it's circuit.

Scott, just for grins, if you have central locking, see if the oddment box lock servo is functioning. That's an easy one to overlook reconnecting if they had that one disconnected. Overlooked that one myself after a recent in-depth maintenance project.

Bob

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post #14 of 22 Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 11:44 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

Normally there are three lengths. Long ones always go in well nuts (rubber bushes with a brass insert). The medium ones go where there are two or more layers of tupperware. and the short ones go where there is only one layer of tupperware. The biggest exception is the one screw just to the left of the oddiments box latch (under the colored panel) it must be a very short screw or it will jam the central locking solenoid. That diagram is for a pre-05. Subtle differences and it does not show the screws for the floor lighting units (phillips) or the very short screw on the tail of the stingray left side.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #15 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 7:02 am Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Originally Posted by want2tour View Post
The other power port, though being on the same 15 amp fuse, has to be simply routed through the ignition switch.
The rear power port only takes a 7.5 amp fuse, being the only port on it's circuit.

Scott, just for grins, if you have central locking, see if the oddment box lock servo is functioning. That's an easy one to overlook reconnecting if they had that one disconnected. Overlooked that one myself after a recent in-depth maintenance project.

Bob
Thanks, I do have central locking and will check that out.

Scott
2007 LT
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post #16 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 7:13 am Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Normally there are three lengths. Long ones always go in well nuts (rubber bushes with a brass insert). The medium ones go where there are two or more layers of tupperware. and the short ones go where there is only one layer of tupperware. The biggest exception is the one screw just to the left of the oddiments box latch (under the colored panel) it must be a very short screw or it will jam the central locking solenoid. That diagram is for a pre-05. Subtle differences and it does not show the screws for the floor lighting units (phillips) or the very short screw on the tail of the stingray left side.
It happened last fall after the 24K dealer service. The more I think about how much I paid for the 24K service, I'm inclined to let the dealer fix it. I did not put much mileage on it after the service but when I winterized it last year thats when I noticed that powerlet port where I used to plug in the tender was not working. I plugged the tender on the other side and the it worked. For some dumb reason it did not register that it might have not been connected during the service.
Thanks for the screw info just in case I end up doing the work. I read several threads on screws and tupperware replacement. Several said th get extra well nuts, should I before I start.

Thanks again as always very helpful

Scott
2007 LT
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post #17 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 8:04 am
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Thanks for the screw info just in case I end up doing the work. I read several threads on screws and tupperware replacement. Several said th get extra well nuts, should I before I start.

Thanks again as always very helpful
It wouldn't hurt to have some on hand if you're going to be doing your own work. You can get less expensive ones that fit, but they are not the quality of the ones that come from BMW by a long way. I also keep a few extra screws and clip nuts on hand just in case.
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post #18 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 8:14 am
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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It happened last fall after the 24K dealer service. The more I think about how much I paid for the 24K service, I'm inclined to let the dealer fix it. I did not put much mileage on it after the service but when I winterized it last year thats when I noticed that powerlet port where I used to plug in the tender was not working. I plugged the tender on the other side and the it worked. For some dumb reason it did not register that it might have not been connected during the service.
Thanks for the screw info just in case I end up doing the work. I read several threads on screws and tupperware replacement. Several said th get extra well nuts, should I before I start.

Thanks again as always very helpful
Not a bad plan if the dealer is nearby. Mine is >100 miles away so visiting for small stuff is not practical.

I had some trepidation the first time I dove into my LT, but it really isn't that bad. And you need only pull one fairing so this is a great way to get your feet wet. Just be methodical and take pictures before you start and as you go if necessary. For small jobs, I just lay the screws on the floor in about the location they came from.

Unlike many others, I use no power driver and take the time to do it by hand. Removing screws with an electric screw driver is pretty safe, but I much prefer to install and tighten by hand. You will never cross thread that way and ruin the nuts or screws as my dealer did twice on the last service they did for me. Make sure the screw is started using your fingers and then tighten using fingertip force on the screwdriver until all are slightly loose (a turn or two shy of contact).. This allows the panel to align as other screws are installed. Once all screws are in loose, then go around and tighten them all finger tip tight with the screw driver. I then make one final pass holding the screwdriver normally and tighten them just a little bit more. These screws just need to be snug, not cranked down!

And if you do bit a snag, which is unlikely, just check back in here for advice before proceeding.

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post #19 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 1:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Not a bad plan if the dealer is nearby. Mine is >100 miles away so visiting for small stuff is not practical.

I had some trepidation the first time I dove into my LT, but it really isn't that bad. And you need only pull one fairing so this is a great way to get your feet wet. Just be methodical and take pictures before you start and as you go if necessary. For small jobs, I just lay the screws on the floor in about the location they came from.

Unlike many others, I use no power driver and take the time to do it by hand. Removing screws with an electric screw driver is pretty safe, but I much prefer to install and tighten by hand. You will never cross thread that way and ruin the nuts or screws as my dealer did twice on the last service they did for me. Make sure the screw is started using your fingers and then tighten using fingertip force on the screwdriver until all are slightly loose (a turn or two shy of contact).. This allows the panel to align as other screws are installed. Once all screws are in loose, then go around and tighten them all finger tip tight with the screw driver. I then make one final pass holding the screwdriver normally and tighten them just a little bit more. These screws just need to be snug, not cranked down!

And if you do bit a snag, which is unlikely, just check back in here for advice before proceeding.


UPDATE:

Thanks for everyone's help and especially to JZ's pic of what the plug should look like. I laid on the floor of the garage with my flashlight and low and behold I saw the back of a greyish plug with two wires going to it sitting on top of the crash bar, but thought it might be plugged into the floor lights. I could just barely touch it with a long screw driver, but it wasn't moving that much. I needed long pair of needle nose pliers but then I remembered I had a four pronged Bolt/nut pincher. So I used that in the tight space with my fat stubby fingers and I finally grabbed it and wiggled it free and that was it. Now, how to get it lined up and pushed on. Also does it matter which way it plugs in? I looked and the plug was oriented almost perfect so I said that must be the correct position and put my finger on back of it and pushed and it went right on. Checked it with the volt meter and job done. I really think I'm ready for a FD re-build. Anyone need one re-done? I did it and didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express
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post #20 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 2:30 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

Way to go Scott!!

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post #21 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 2:37 pm
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Re: Calling JZ calling JZ

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Also does it matter which way it plugs in?
I does matter, but it can only go on one way.

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post #22 of 22 Old Jul 4th, 2015, 4:44 pm
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Several said to get extra well nuts, should I before I start.

Thanks again as always very helpful
Sounds like you have it taken care of but give me a holler if you need some genuine BMW well nuts. They're listed in the classified section.

Regards, Ken
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