Clutch Question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 5:37 am Thread Starter
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Clutch Question

Replaced my clutch two years ago, or was it three.

IIRC, as the clutch wears, it will engage sooner, with the clutch lever closer to the hand grip.

Mine seems to be doing the opposite, I have a very small friction zone, and it is close to full outward extension of the lever. It seems that it was engaging with the lever more fully released since the clutch job, but it seems that the engagement point is migrating ever so slowly closer to full outward position of the clutch lever.

Am I making sense? It IS early and only one cup of coffee so far.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #2 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 6:30 am
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Re: Clutch Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211 View Post
Replaced my clutch two years ago, or was it three.

IIRC, as the clutch wears, it will engage sooner, with the clutch lever closer to the hand grip.

Mine seems to be doing the opposite, I have a very small friction zone, and it is close to full outward extension of the lever. It seems that it was engaging with the lever more fully released since the clutch job, but it seems that the engagement point is migrating ever so slowly closer to full outward position of the clutch lever.

Am I making sense? It IS early and only one cup of coffee so far.
Tony, I don't remember, did you change the slave? Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Leaky hose maybe.

Robert

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin (1706 - 1790)


2000 K1200LT "Latifah"
1994 R1100RSL (wife's)
1981 R80GS
1976 R90S
1965 R80/2 Frankenbike (wife's)
2001 Bunkhouse LX (given to son)
2011 Bunkhouse Queen

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post #3 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 7:27 am
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Re: Clutch Question

hydraulic clutches are self adjusting, have had several, engagement point should only change if the slave or master has a problem. The fluid will fill the master reservoir as the clutch wears opposite of the brake reservoir which goes lower as the pads wear

Gary
2018 R1200RT
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2000 K1200LT
1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
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post #4 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 8:34 am
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Re: Clutch Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211 View Post
Replaced my clutch two years ago, or was it three.

IIRC, as the clutch wears, it will engage sooner, with the clutch lever closer to the hand grip.

Mine seems to be doing the opposite, I have a very small friction zone, and it is close to full outward extension of the lever. It seems that it was engaging with the lever more fully released since the clutch job, but it seems that the engagement point is migrating ever so slowly closer to full outward position of the clutch lever.

Am I making sense? It IS early and only one cup of coffee so far.
Hydraulic brakes and clutches are typically self-adjusting. The master cylinder has a port that is uncovered at the end of the release stroke that allows fluid to enter or leave the circuit. What should change is the fluid level in the master cylinder.

With brakes, the level should go down with pad wear as fluid moves from the master cylinder into the increasing volume in the slave cylinders. I have not yet had my LT apart, but I believe the clutch slave is just the opposite. It pushes the pressure plate away from the clutch disk. As the disk gets thinner, the pressure plate moves closer to the slave cylinder causing the volume of the slave to decrease. This displaces fluid back into the master cylinder increasing its fluid level.

I also have a small engagement zone and it is towards the end of travel of the lever. I recall that mine has always been that way, but seems to be worse since oil started weeping from under the engine and, I suspect, contaminating the clutch. Although, after slipping a few times last year while traveling to NL, I can't make it slip this year. Go figure. I planned to tear it down in June after my 5/31 retirement, but now plan to finish the riding season and tear it down this winter, unless the slipping returns with a vengeance. I have no real long trips planned this year and don't fear making a few 800 mile trips with it.

My past wet clutch bikes all had broader engagement travel and began to engage much earlier in the lever travel. I chalk the late/narrow engagement up to the dry clutch design.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #5 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 8:54 am Thread Starter
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Yes, Robert, slave (and hose) replaced.

No leak detected.

Progression of engagement point may be only in my mind.

Glad to hear late engagement not necessarily a problem.

Reservoir is full. When I flush it, no air gap. No slipping.
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post #6 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 6:44 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

mines all new, clutch doesn't kick in until the lever is nearly fully out as well, must be normal i guess.

Regards Linton
From the land of Kangaroo's and Koalas
and no koalas are not Bears



2002 K1200LT
2010 Suzuki GSX 1250FA (the Wifes)
2004 Cub Kamparoo Sprint
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post #7 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 7:01 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211 View Post
Yes, Robert, slave (and hose) replaced.

No leak detected.

Progression of engagement point may be only in my mind.

Glad to hear late engagement not necessarily a problem.

Reservoir is full. When I flush it, no air gap. No slipping.
Tony, is it possible that you moved the dial on the lever? I did that once and thought I had a problem.

Robert

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin (1706 - 1790)


2000 K1200LT "Latifah"
1994 R1100RSL (wife's)
1981 R80GS
1976 R90S
1965 R80/2 Frankenbike (wife's)
2001 Bunkhouse LX (given to son)
2011 Bunkhouse Queen

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post #8 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 8:08 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

Also bear in mind that the fluid level will RISE in the reservoir as the clutch wears. You don't want it over full.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #9 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 8:46 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

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Originally Posted by Scouter-50 View Post
Tony, is it possible that you moved the dial on the lever? I did that once and thought I had a problem.

Robert
I thought that adjustment only brought the lever closer/further away from fingers, I dont think it actually adjusts anything, the push rod doesn't move only the lever ??

ok I just realised how it works Duh!

Regards Linton
From the land of Kangaroo's and Koalas
and no koalas are not Bears



2002 K1200LT
2010 Suzuki GSX 1250FA (the Wifes)
2004 Cub Kamparoo Sprint
My Toys
1976 Datsun 260Z
1989 Nissan 300zx TT
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post #10 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 9:34 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scouter-50 View Post
Tony, is it possible that you moved the dial on the lever? I did that once and thought I had a problem.

Robert
Possible? Of course. Would it adjust the length of the friction zone, though?

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
-----------------------------------------------

If you want to be happy for a day, drink.
If you want to be happy for a year, marry.
If you want to be happy for a lifetime, ride a motorcycle.

-----------------------------------------------


'05 K1200LT - Dark Graphite - RIP 04 OCT 2015
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'99 Road King Classic - Custom Blue/Silver & Chrome - "My Baby" Gone but forever in my heart!

and many, many others.
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post #11 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 9:36 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Question

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Also bear in mind that the fluid level will RISE in the reservoir as the clutch wears. You don't want it over full.
I flush the clutch at least once a year, John, as it is soooo easy with a SpeedBleeder and an empty IV bag.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
-----------------------------------------------

If you want to be happy for a day, drink.
If you want to be happy for a year, marry.
If you want to be happy for a lifetime, ride a motorcycle.

-----------------------------------------------


'05 K1200LT - Dark Graphite - RIP 04 OCT 2015
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post #12 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 9:36 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axle View Post
I thought that adjustment only brought the lever closer/further away from fingers, I dont think it actually adjusts anything, the push rod doesn't move only the lever ??

ok I just realised how it works Duh!
Linton, what did you just realize?

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
-----------------------------------------------

If you want to be happy for a day, drink.
If you want to be happy for a year, marry.
If you want to be happy for a lifetime, ride a motorcycle.

-----------------------------------------------


'05 K1200LT - Dark Graphite - RIP 04 OCT 2015
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'99 Road King Classic - Custom Blue/Silver & Chrome - "My Baby" Gone but forever in my heart!

and many, many others.
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post #13 of 17 Old Jun 16th, 2015, 11:20 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

there are 3 positions on the dial 1 being the closest, if you have selected say 1 then the lever is 2 clicks closer to the bar, so as you release the clutch lever it appears to engage the clutch earlier when in fact, the clutch engages the same as before say if you were on 3. as I said the lever moves not the push rod.

Regards Linton
From the land of Kangaroo's and Koalas
and no koalas are not Bears



2002 K1200LT
2010 Suzuki GSX 1250FA (the Wifes)
2004 Cub Kamparoo Sprint
My Toys
1976 Datsun 260Z
1989 Nissan 300zx TT

Last edited by Axle; Jun 16th, 2015 at 11:26 pm.
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post #14 of 17 Old Jun 17th, 2015, 12:00 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

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Originally Posted by Axle View Post
there are 3 positions on the dial 1 being the closest, if you have selected say 1 then the lever is 2 clicks closer to the bar, so as you release the clutch lever it appears to engage the clutch earlier when in fact, the clutch engages the same as before say if you were on 3. as I said the lever moves not the push rod.
I believe that is correct. The dial on the lever adjusts the maximum travel of the slave cylinder when the lever is completely against the grip.

Mine was set at 1 and until I figured this out, I had issues with shifts being more difficult that I thought they should be. So I set it at 2 and that disengaged the plate a little further and actually seems to shift easier now ( for me). I think it was not fully disengaging and still applying some spin force on the tranny making shifts noisy/harder than they should have been.

There is an adjustment screw on the handle that is set with locktite for the actual handle play. I would not think that would need adjustment unless you replaced/rebuilt the master cylinder. I believe there is an adjustment procedure in the Clymer book if needed.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
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post #15 of 17 Old Oct 22nd, 2015, 9:22 am
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Re: Clutch Question

I'm the new guy! Getting use to the decidedly different feel and sounds of the LT. Love the bike. I just purchased an '07 LT with only 12K mile on it. My clutch does engage almost at full release of the leaver and it takes more rpm's to "get her moving" than I would have thought. So different from any other bike I've had. Wondered if it was normal, but master cylinder level is just right and it doesn't slip and from what everyone is saying, it is "normal" for this bike. Thanks. Doug
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post #16 of 17 Old Oct 22nd, 2015, 10:00 am
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Re: Clutch Question

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Originally Posted by dladika View Post
I'm the new guy! Getting use to the decidedly different feel and sounds of the LT. Love the bike. I just purchased an '07 LT with only 12K mile on it. My clutch does engage almost at full release of the leaver and it takes more rpm's to "get her moving" than I would have thought. So different from any other bike I've had. Wondered if it was normal, but master cylinder level is just right and it doesn't slip and from what everyone is saying, it is "normal" for this bike. Thanks. Doug
The LT is a heavy bike with a relatively small engine with little torque and rotational mass and a way too tall first gear. This makes for challenging and slow launches and the need for higher than desirable RPM which wears out the dry clutch sooner than normal for other bike.

Just the nature of the beast. Don't ever challenge a v-twin cruiser or a gold wing at a stop light. They will eat your lunch.


Wait until you are rolling in first gear or until on a very curvy toad before challenging anyone.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #17 of 17 Old Oct 22nd, 2015, 9:28 pm
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Re: Clutch Question

Recommend working on learning how to release the clutch with no more throttle than necessary to maintain no more than 1,200-1,500 RPM until the clutch is fully engaged. This will preserve the life of the clutch. Once the clutch is fully engaged roll on the throttle and take her to 8,000 RPM and shift into 5th as you will be doing 60 MPH.

If you try to do a high RPM launch like a wet clutch sport bike all you will do is wear out the clutch. Do the slow launch followed by the fast get away. You won't get the hole shot but you will pass them before they shift into third.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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