Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Jun 10th, 2015, 11:55 pm Thread Starter
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Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

Hi All,

I performed the 30k oil change.

Does anyone know the torque rating for the skid plate?

It has 2 allen head screws and 2 nuts

The plate I am referring to is a piece of sheet metal and is for my 2005.

Thanks

Last edited by ehaughn; Jun 11th, 2015 at 12:03 am.
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post #2 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 2:01 am
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

According to Clymers, clean bolt threads then as follows.
Apply Loctite 242 and tighten the engine guard 8mm bolts to 21 N*m (15.5ftlbs)
Apply Loctite 242 and tighten the engine guard 10mm bolts to 41 N*m (30ftlbs)

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post #3 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 9:43 am Thread Starter
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

See url, BMWSTEELART.COM K589 (K 1200 RS, K 1200 LT)_ K 1200 LT 04 (0549,0559)_ USA_ 46 Frame and mounting parts_ 46_0831 Underride protection

For item #9 , I am looking for torque for #10 and #11 .

Thanks
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post #4 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 10:46 am
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

The Holy Grail of LT Torque specs. There are TWO Tabs, pretty much everything on the bike is here.

Another Forum Member made this years ago, and posted here.
Attached Files
File Type: xls LT_Specs_Torque_Converter.xls (110.5 KB, 89 views)

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post #5 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 11:38 am Thread Starter
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

Thank you, this is a very useful spreadsheet.
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post #6 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 3:58 pm
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chayside View Post
According to Clymers, clean bolt threads then as follows.
Apply Loctite 242 and tighten the engine guard 8mm bolts to 21 N*m (15.5ftlbs)
Apply Loctite 242 and tighten the engine guard 10mm bolts to 41 N*m (30ftlbs)
Are you sure these are for the skid plate? The torque values sound very high!

I just snug the fasteners by hand. The two nuts on the rear are self-locking on my 2007 so just snug them with a combination wrench and you are good. No need for loctite on a self-locking nut!

And the front I just snug down also, no need for high torque on these.

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post #7 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 7:46 pm
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

The metal skid plate that comes off the skid frame is held by two 5 mm Allens at the front (9 Nm is good enough but snug will work here as well) and the two 10 mm nuts should be self locking so just snug. The manuals does not cover a torque value for this item.

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post #8 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 8:08 pm
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Are you sure these are for the skid plate? The torque values sound very high!

I just snug the fasteners by hand. The two nuts on the rear are self-locking on my 2007 so just snug them with a combination wrench and you are good. No need for loctite on a self-locking nut!

And the front I just snug down also, no need for high torque on these.
Voyager, Clymers page 549, picture 60 section 17. I agree 110% with your reply but I was just answering the guys question. Some people get to hung up on torquing bolts. During my days a s a mechanic for well over thirty years if I had torqued every single bolt I am sure I would still be rebuilding crap today.

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post #9 of 9 Old Jun 11th, 2015, 10:42 pm
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Re: Oil Change, Skid Plate Torque Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chayside View Post
Voyager, Clymers page 549, picture 60 section 17. I agree 110% with your reply but I was just answering the guys question. Some people get to hung up on torquing bolts. During my days a s a mechanic for well over thirty years if I had torqued every single bolt I am sure I would still be rebuilding crap today.
I just looked at the Clymer manual and I believe you are misreading it. The manual refers to the engine guard mounting bracket bolts, not the bolts and nuts that attach the engine guard to the engine guard mounting bracket!

And the last sentence of paragraph 2 specifically says NOT to remove the bolts that secure the engine guard to the mounting bracket. I believe in this case it is not necessary since the complete assembly is being removed. However, for an oil change, as is the case in this thread, only the guard itself needs to be removed (small bolts and nuts), not the guard mounting bracket which is affixed with the much larger bolts mentioned in the manual.

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