Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 13 Old Jun 8th, 2015, 11:16 pm Thread Starter
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Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

Maybe it's because I've owned it so long, but I've put more batteries in this bike than any other vehicle.

Decided this time to buy a Yasa as burning up Odyssey's were too expensive.

Well the Yuasa only lasted about a week and half (without tender I admit) before it was toast.

As I install another, I'm trying to figure out where the drain is. I had all positives on the terminal, and was testing the negatives (chassis ground NOT connected) for currrect draw. When I tested the negative for the driving lights, they came on. What? Key off and driving lights came on? I decided to connect everything else and leave the lights dark until I have more time to dig in.

After everything else, and chassis ground were connected, I touched the driving light ground to the battery and they did not come on this time.

Was the lack of chassis ground creating the problem, or is this some indication of a bad relay?

Joe Van Orsdol
Zimmerman Mn
'02 K1200LT
'94 K75S for sale
'11 DR650 Alaska Bike
'13 KTM 250XCW
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post #2 of 13 Old Jun 9th, 2015, 9:03 am
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

How are your driving lights powered, I powered mine with a slave relay from the heated passenger seat switched power. For some reason the relay would energise at odd times when the bike was sitting key off resulting in dead battery. I grounded the relay directly to the battery and that solved intermittent problem. Floating grounds - no frame ground - can cause issues when you add devices.

I have a Yuasa AGM battery for over a year and even if the bike sits 2 weeks it is still OK, only on a tender if it is going to sit for the winter

Gary
2018 R1200RT
Past rides
2012 K1600GTL
2000 K1200LT
1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
1985 K100RT
1965 R60/2
1960 AJS 500 single
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post #3 of 13 Old Jun 9th, 2015, 12:02 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

I had a DICE unit attached to to the CD changer cable in the side bag and that little sucker would drain the battery in 3 to 5 days. Check all your after market adds. Some seemingly small devices are not engineered to conserve power and will guzzle not sip. I have to disconnect and reprogram the unit at the end and start of each ride I take it on. I hope you've already found the source of your excessive parasitic drain and it was as simple as tightening connections or removing ground loops.

Benny C. (Central Texas)
2001 LTC Pacific Blue (Babe...the blue ox)
1986 Kawasaki Concours (Connie) sold
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post #4 of 13 Old Jun 9th, 2015, 12:42 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

The LT has a fairly high at rest battery draw. Two weeks is pushing the limit on starting if it's not being regularly ridden. Sounds like you might want to get a good onboard float charger or get a quick connect and use a high quality unit to keep it ready to ride. The comments about aftermarket accessories are also accurate. They are much more likely to draw power when "off".
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post #5 of 13 Old Jun 9th, 2015, 2:20 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

I have a number of farkles and use a havis chargeguard on my k12

Havis Products | CG-X Chargeguard-Select

I run all the farkles off this system which senses when the engine is running and the charge system is engaged. Once it triggers it closes a heavy duty relay which powers all the accessories. Once the engine stops the chargeguard senses the reduced voltage and starts a count down timer and then shuts off after a user defined time period. Along the way while it is in count down mode it senses battery voltage and if it gets too low it also shuts off.

This is the same system i have had on my emergency vehicles over the years. Never been stuck with a dead battery from parasitic load using this gadget.


Tom

###########################
2009 K1200LT (Travel)
2007 R1200RTP (Commute)
2001 Goldwing (Gone but not forgotten)
1999 K1200LT (Gone failed final drive)
1983 R100RT (Sold)
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post #6 of 13 Old Jun 9th, 2015, 7:32 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

I generally always plug in the trickle charger.

Odyssey that came on the bike died last year. Got a WPS lithium ion for I think just under $200 bucks. Just swapped motors but spins starter effortlessly. They are really light too so you could add one to your side or top box (second wps) wire it parallel to factory location. Get double battery capacity (expensive!) but both weigh much less than factory lead-acid.

I got a big 10" subwoofer and amplifier in my top box too (I like bass).
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post #7 of 13 Old Jun 10th, 2015, 7:47 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

Unless there is something after market added or a mismatch of radio controller software to the radio unit software(known issue), the LT should have no more than 5 ma of parasitic drain. Track it down. That last one I worked on the owner had just wasted $300 at the dealer and his Odyssey battery was DOA. Found a rats nest of wiring (bike had 100K on it and two owners) and a powered radio antenna that was under the top case. It was drawing 135 ma all the time. By the way the Odyssey is the only battery I have seen actually come back from the dead and live life well for several years; after several days of high charge rate for a few hours a day. Most are just plain dead.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #8 of 13 Old Jun 18th, 2015, 6:00 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

What or how is the best way to track down the culprit causing the battery drain. My recent purchase of a 2003 seems to die after about 7-10 days. New battery still seems to only hold for over a week.
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post #9 of 13 Old Jun 18th, 2015, 9:13 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

Use an Ammeter ( HF has a multi-meter that is free sometimes with a coupon or just a few $). Set it to read the highest current scale (usually 200 ma). Turn the forks and lock them and remove the key (make sure you did not turn on the parking lights).

Disconnect the negative battery post, hold one lead on the - cable. Then touch the - cable back to the battery (you will see a spark - normal) now while holding all that (in one hand) on the post take the other lead and hold it to the post. Now remove the cable/lead combo from the battery and read the current (it will either be + or _ really doesn't matter).

If all is well you should read between 5 -10 ma. If it is higher than that start disconnecting accessories until it does read there. Then if it is still high start pulling fuses until it drops to that value. The last thing you undid is the culprit.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #10 of 13 Old Jun 30th, 2015, 10:06 am
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

I waited until I had a fresh battery and followed your procedure. 13.1 v seems to be the only reading I get with pulling each fuse. It seems to be a direct short somewhere, and I am concerned about the starter. Any way to check without taking to dealer?
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post #11 of 13 Old Jun 30th, 2015, 10:44 am
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

Quote:
Originally Posted by malclingan View Post
I waited until I had a fresh battery and followed your procedure. 13.1 v seems to be the only reading I get with pulling each fuse. It seems to be a direct short somewhere, and I am concerned about the starter. Any way to check without taking to dealer?
An Ammeter needs to be in the circuit to measure current. If you are reading volts ( 13.1) then you do not have it hooked up correctly.

You will have to disconnect the battery and place the meter in between the leads to the battery and the post.

( + Post )<--------(meter)-------->( wires that connected to the post)

Be sure not to short against any metal. If you put the meter across the positive and negative posts and have it set for reading current, it will likely burn up the meter as the shunt inside the meter is almost a direct short.

Most meters have a separate place to plug the leads in when measuring current versus measuring voltage where the leads to go across the positive and negative posts for reading.

If you are not sure what you are doing, you should get some help from some one who does or you may damage your meter or possibly other things as well.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #12 of 13 Old Jun 30th, 2015, 11:51 pm
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Use an Ammeter ( HF has a multi-meter that is free sometimes with a coupon or just a few $). Set it to read the highest current scale (usually 200 ma). Turn the forks and lock them and remove the key (make sure you did not turn on the parking lights).

Disconnect the negative battery post, hold one lead on the - cable. Then touch the - cable back to the battery (you will see a spark - normal) now while holding all that (in one hand) on the post take the other lead and hold it to the post. Now remove the cable/lead combo from the battery and read the current (it will either be + or _ really doesn't matter).

If all is well you should read between 5 -10 ma. If it is higher than that start disconnecting accessories until it does read there. Then if it is still high start pulling fuses until it drops to that value. The last thing you undid is the culprit.
+1

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post #13 of 13 Old Jul 1st, 2015, 8:29 am
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Re: Chronic Parasitic drain and relay question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
An Ammeter needs to be in the circuit to measure current. If you are reading volts ( 13.1) then you do not have it hooked up correctly.

You will have to disconnect the battery and place the meter in between the leads to the battery and the post.

( + Post )<--------(meter)-------->( wires that connected to the post)

Be sure not to short against any metal. If you put the meter across the positive and negative posts and have it set for reading current, it will likely burn up the meter as the shunt inside the meter is almost a direct short.

Most meters have a separate place to plug the leads in when measuring current versus measuring voltage where the leads to go across the positive and negative posts for reading.

If you are not sure what you are doing, you should get some help from some one who does or you may damage your meter or possibly other things as well.
A good video explaining how to hook up the multimeter, using a Harbor Freight multimeter

https://youtu.be/vrNvkJ2EtvE

2009 R1200RT
Past Rides: 2003 K1200LT "Gertrude" (sold) / 2004 R1200CLC "Petunia" (sold) 2005 Kawi Concours (gone)


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