Ran battery dead now radio does not work - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 12 Old Oct 17th, 2005, 2:56 pm Thread Starter
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Ran battery dead now radio does not work

I left the #%& parking lights on and it killed the battery. After using jumper cables to jump start the bike I now find out my Radio does come on. I looked in the manual and saw nothing, no special code of sequence of things to do.
So I disconnected the batter again and reconnect thinking this might help, Nope.
I also check the fuse and it seemed fine.
So is there something special I need to do

Thanks
Jim
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post #2 of 12 Old Oct 17th, 2005, 3:00 pm
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Jim,

Leave it disconnected for at least 20 minutes. Also there is a 10 amp fuse at the rear of the unit (inside the stingray).

Good luck

John
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #3 of 12 Old Oct 17th, 2005, 3:16 pm
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I would bet you popped that fuse when you jumped it. LT's won't handle a whole lot of Amps when jumping them. Usually, I just connect from a cigarette lighter to the BMW powerlet to jump it, that way it's very limited. Much more, and you're asking for trouble. At least make sure you're not connected when the jumping vehicle is starting and then ONLY leave it at idle.
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post #4 of 12 Old Oct 17th, 2005, 4:03 pm
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Exactly the same problem

Wow!
I was getting ready to post this EXACT SAME PROBLEM. Now I have some things to check.
Now, what is a stingray? I don't have a clue as to where that is.
How many fairing covers will I have to remove to check the 10 AMP fuse?
Guys, I used to do ALL of my own auto maintenance, but that was over 30 years ago. In the intervening years, I've mostly had it done either because I had no place to do it (townhome living) or didn't have the right tools.
Now, this is the first motorcycle I've ever owned and I'm trying to learn it, but I still need to know WHAT a stingray is, etc. Thanks for the quality help that is given on this site.

Triker
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post #5 of 12 Old Oct 17th, 2005, 4:28 pm
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Stingray is that piece of plastic on top of your bike, who contains the radio panel, the oddments box, and undernote, the radio it self.
You have to remove both side panels to get access to it.
Can be done and about 2 hours to 3 hours work.

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post #6 of 12 Old Oct 17th, 2005, 4:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strsout
Stingray is that piece of plastic on top of your bike, who contains the radio panel, the oddments box, and undernote, the radio it self.
You have to remove both side panels to get access to it.
Can be done and about 2 hours to 3 hours work.

...and is a mild pain in the arse. While you're there, it would be a good idea to take the radio connector off, clean the connection, and put some dialectric grease in there. Should ward off the nasty static that will eventually arrive in your sound system.
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post #7 of 12 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 11:15 am
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Dead battery and NO communications after jump start.

Ok. Three things.
  1. My radio is working again after disconnecting my battery for an hour. 20 minutes might have done it, but I didn't want the procedure to take 1 hour and 20 minutes if the 20 didn't do it.
  2. Why would BMW put the fuse is such a place that the side panels have to come off to get to it? That has to be one of the STUPIDEST things I've ever heard.
  3. Why doesn't BMW publish tips about jump starting to tell you that you may lose your radio if you jump start it. Possibly, the radio should have been turned off before jumping it, but that's an oversight that anyone could make. Anyway, I'll bet that there is a book somewhere that BMW technicians have access to that tells them how to do that reset WITHOUT having to disconnect the battery for 1 hour/20 minutes to restore radio communications. What if I were on a long trip, 500 miles from home and have to have a jump start. Then, after being without the radio for enough time to make sure the battery is charged up enough to allow starting again, then have to stop, disconnect the battery, wait some period of time, reconnect and then continue. How dumb is that?
OK, enough ranting. If riding my LT weren't so much fun , I'd really be tempted to try and organize some real pushback to BMW for some of their blunders in design, etc.

Triker
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post #8 of 12 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 11:39 am
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Jump starting is a subject that is loaded with myths. There are so many "Old Wive's Tales" out there regarding the subject that there is no wonder most people have a problem seperating myth from fact.

The fact is that you cannot supply "too many amps" to the LT from ANY properly working 12 volt automotive system, battery, or alternator.

The LT can be jumped safely using any standard 12 volt system, be it an automobile, truck, bus, or whatever, as long as the system being used is working properly.

There are jump starting procedures that have to be followed correctly to avoid problems, but if done properly, the LT cannot tell the difference in the supply voltage from it's own battery/alternator and any other 12 volt system, and yes, it is best to have the supply vehicle's engine RUNNING. you need the extra volt and a half or so to help overcome the voltage drop inherent in jumper cables and their connections in order to have full starting voltage available to the LT's starter.

It makes no difference how many amps a supply system is "capable" of supplying. The LT's circuits will only "draw" the amount of amperage needed from the 12-14 volt supply. Amperage is controled by the LOAD circuit, NOT the SUPPLY. As long as the suppying system cannot produce higher than 14 volts, there will be no problem, no matter how large it is.

The normal procedure in jumping any vehicle is to make the last hookup of the cables the negative clip on one end being grounded to a GOOD ground away from the battery. Usually on cars this is done on the vehicle to be charged, but on the LT you have to make both connections to the battery, so hook up that end of the jumper cables first, then the positive cable to the positive post on the donor vehicle, the negative to a GOOD engine ground away from the battery. WITH the engine idling. (The car you are using produces no more voltage when running than the LT's own alternator does.) Then start the bike.

Unhook in reverse, buy removing the negative cable at the donor vehicle ground first.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

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post #9 of 12 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 11:48 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triker
[*]Why would BMW put the fuse is such a place that the side panels have to come off to get to it? That has to be one of the STUPIDEST things I've ever heard.
Welcome to BMW world.
A place were the drain plug for transmission oil change is located under the center stand, an air filter is under the gas tank and a gas filter in under the tank
also, if you go to cars, to change a simple bulb for a parking like inplies on removing 2 different tube plastics for air conduction and dislocating one wire 2" to the right. All in a 1/2square foot space... but I start loving my new for me 525i as I love my LT

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post #10 of 12 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 12:31 pm
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I have a 525i also, and have replaced the headlight bulbs, so I know what you are talking about. I put in HID low beams.

The worst thing I have had to do on the 525 so far is replace the crank pulse generator. The sensor itself was not bad, but it's plug was nearly impossible! I had to jack the car up, get under the car and use mirrors and feel to unplug it, then getting the plug of the new one lined up by feel only took me about 15 minutes of trial and error. Why in heck they put that plug where they did, under the intake manifold where you cannot see it, and barely reach it, is beyond me! Toyota would not have done that.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #11 of 12 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 2:11 pm
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Dead battery, radio doesn't come on.

You said in your post,
"The normal procedure in jumping any vehicle is to make the last hookup of the cables the negative clip on one end being grounded to a GOOD ground away from the battery. Usually on cars this is done on the vehicle to be charged, but on the LT you have to make both connections to the battery, so hook up that end of the jumper cables first, then the positive cable to the positive post on the donor vehicle, the negative to a GOOD engine ground away from the battery. WITH the engine idling. (The car you are using produces no more voltage when running than the LT's own alternator does.) Then start the bike."

The problem is, on many commercial tow trucks, the jump start connection is now a standard plug on the front of the vehicle that their jumper cables are plugged into without lifting their hood, and then the cables are attached to YOUR vehicle.
In the future, I'll ask them to hook up to my battery first before plugging into their jack. Would that be as good? Also, I plan on turning off as many things as I can before "jumping".
Thanks for the update.

Triker
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post #12 of 12 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 2:46 pm
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Yes, hook up your end first before they plug in their jack.

The reason for the "away from battery" final hookup is to help prevent a battery explosion. Charging batteries give off a lot of hydrogen, and a spark in the near vicinity can and has caused batteries to explode, showering the hook up person with acid. The away from battery hookup keeps the spark from being near the battery, and in case of a bad connection inside the battery sparking also gets the operator further away from the battery.

You never want to be looking at the battery when you hook it up! If you hook up the LT's battery last, you are looking right at a possible splashing acid source!

Yes, having all your accessories turned off when you jump it is a good thing.

Also forgot to mention, the reason you want the supply vehicle already started and idling before you hook up the last cable connection is to prevent an induction spike in the voltage if the starter is used in the supply vehicle AFTER hooking up the cables.

Jump starting any vehicle is a safe and sane thing to do, IF procedures are followed. All the horror stories you hear are the result of doing it WRONG, not because it is inherently dangerous to people or circuits.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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