I just bought it a couple weeks ago so I can only relay what the previous owner stated. He owned it for 3 years and put on 5k miles. Saps it already had the 12 k maintenance on it when he bought it. He had a fluid change at 16k. Has just under 20k on it now. He said it was always cold blooded and assumed that was normal.
I pulled the plugs. They were a little wet darker than the one I replaced in the 2003. I will attach the pictures below.
Did a voltage check on the battery. Here are my readings.
While running I checked for arcing on the plug wires. None found.
(1) battery voltage checks before start - AND- while running are good and also show good alternator charging. So we can eliminate this as related cause.
(2) wet plug wires test appear to be good so we can also eliminate this from cause.
(3) we also know from previous post that engine-temp-sensor resistance values appear normal.
The fact that previous owner did very little mileage in 3 years is a RED negative flag. From bad old gaz causing deposit (injectors, tank, fuel-pump) to other potential issues. Running it in garage for 5 minutes every month is NOT a solution to not riding it - cause more problems/condensation into engine. From your post above, when I hear a seller tell me this: "He said it was always cold blooded and assumed that was normal." ... I do not know if I should laugh or cry - no it is NOT normal.
About the spark-plug color:
For many years on caburator engines, it was almost a science to read plug colors for troubleshooting. HOWEVER one must be careful not to push too far into a given isolated test case. If/When a spark-plugs has mainly done cold start or warm-up on idling RPM during last 10 minutes, the reading is not as valid as a highway ride. In real-life analysis the tuner would ask riders (racers) to make a certain RPM run and stop/kill engine before it had time to idle too long. The goal was to check fueling mixture at normal RPM obviously.
Still, even with above warnings, given these pictures, I would say tip/electrode is a bit too white/gray and the inside oily/carbon deposit is not good either. Are these BOSCH XR7LDC ? Ideally you would try new spark-plugs and do a longer ride (with new fuel in tank) to check again.
Further tests / research:
As mentioned earlier, a reading of engine fault codes with GS911 and doing a full log of "realtime values" on center-stand as described earlier.
Getting a hold of a fuel-pressure gauge to check that fuel-pressure is not too low. This would give us a health check into:
(1) fuel-pump and internal hoses in fuel-tank (into/out of filter)
(2) fuel-filter being blocked
(3) Fuel-pressure regulator (not common cause of problem)
These BOSCH Motronic EFI system will run like shit when fuel pressure is too low (51 PSI is normal, a bit more is not a problem +10%). A bike that sat for a long time is more at risk of problem in this area.
See attached pictures: these Fuel-pressure gauge kit are not expensive and will be cheaper than a single visit to dealer to make same check for you. In addition, you can either re-use on other EFI engines (car, bike). On a K1200 you need to find another set a fuel hose quick-connectors to hook into existing fuel pressure side hose. OEM black plastic connector will fit into the metal type sold by BeemerBoneyard (made by same supplier).