The servo brakes failed a couple of weeks ago on my 2004 LT when I was on the exit ramp going to work. I'm just going to bypass the ABS servo unit. I hope to have a Areoquip dealer in Charlotte make me 4 stainless braided brake lines to bypass the ABS unit & seal the lines from the ABS unit.
If everything works as planned I should have pictures in a few days. My goal is to not disturb any of the factory or Spiegler lines on my LT.
Explain a little more John. I'm not unhooking anything from the ABS unit but the brake lines to the calipers & I'm going to loop the lines from the ABS unit back to each other.
Can you not just disconnect the wires for the two pressure pumps from the PC card, John had a pic on one of the threads of the pump motor driver chips, the board is probably better protected in the module
You might check with Module masters and see how far along they are with their fix on your module. They did my RT module and it works great with a 5 year warranty.
Everything is hooked up & all I have left to do is bleed the front & rear circuits.
I bought four 10 mm x 1.0 thread hex head bolts & shortened them to go into the unions with a washer to block off & seal the ABS lines. The brake fluid is still in the ABS unit & wont get contaminated. I had an extra front BMW union so I only had to buy the two rear unions. My total cost was $90 including the two custom made brake lines.
Nice work Dave. I like the way you think. If mine ever goes it'll be a tough decision as to repair or just bypass. If I had the linked system, I believe I would do exactly what you have done. Be a little more careful on those corners now.........
I never unhooked the ABS unit so the speedo & cruise should still work. I'll either remove the bulbs or unhook the relay to stop the blinking lights from working.
I could have saved $16 if I had bought another 10 mm X 1.0 union & put the front lines together but I decided not to disturb any of the Speigler brake lines. the system has been bled now & no leaks.
Nice job Dave. Everything should work and pulling the warning relay will only kill one of the lights. The other one is driven from pin 9 (brown/red wire) on the ABS connector. or that matter pin 10 (brown/yellow) is the other one that drives the warning relay.
Thanks John I'll just remove the bulbs. If I did it again I would just join the front lines with a union. My set up doesn't fit to good between the air box & the tank. I had to lay a piece of rubber between the upper fitting & the tank.
I just turned the key on & you could here the servo's go through the self test. I applied the brakes after the servo's stopped & they worked for a few seconds & then quit just like they did the last few times I rode the bike. Also the last few days leading up to the servo's failing the rear brake would lock up at slow speeds.
This bike has always worn the rear brake pads & rotors at a much faster rate than what I consider normal. The rear rotor on it now was new 6 months ago from a triked bike & it is below min. spec. already.
Dave, there's an auto supply shop real close to here that makes custom brake hoses/lines while you wait. If interested, let me know and I'll put you together. A small family owned business, good work at reasonable prices.
The next time your there Gunny see if they carry 3/16" vinyl braided steel brake line & 10 mm x 1.0 plus 12 mm x 1.0 thread crimp on fittings in straight, 45 & 90 degree.
I'm not sure Jim, I'm just working on it now & then this week and I have other maintenance I'm doing because this is this the first time I've done any work on it since I installed the clutch last year. I know it was 4 hours on Monday just rounding up parts.
Dave how is this set up still working for you reason I ask this is the route that I will be going if mine fails the only thing I think I would need a little more info when it comes to that point when I do that change but I will put it in my save documents THANKS AGAIN FOR SOME GREAT INFO.
I put some miles on it this morning & everything works fine. It stops just like my 2000 LT. On Wednesday morning I zip tied the hand brake lever & used a ratchet strap on the foot brake lever to hold them at about 80% down. I made sure I did not bottom out the master cylinders. After 24 hours I bled them for the last time & got a few more air bubbles out of each caliper.
The cruise & speedometer work just like they should. I also removed the light relay & the bulb so I have no flashing dash lights.
It seems I'll be going down this path at least temporarily.
If I understand correctly, were you to do it over again you would order a slightly different set of hoses. Would you please provide the specs of what you believe to be the best setup? I'll then give Gunny's shop my credit card and, hopefully, next weekend I'll be able to do the bypass.
Also of interest, has anyone here successfully replaced the iABS III with an ABS II modulator? I expect iABS II won't ever work with the ECU on a bike set up for iABS III. I apologize in advance if this notion has been bottomed out. I happen to own a modulator P/N 34 15 2 306 435.
The only hose I would have is the rear hose. I can't find the receipt to see how long it was.
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