Trunk Latch: Bad - Good - Bad - Solution - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 9:03 am Thread Starter
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Question Trunk Latch: Bad - Good - Bad - Solution

The Bad: the trunk latch on my '03 LTE self destructed a couple of weeks ago and I knew that it would at some time because of the excessive friction encountered when latching it.

The Good: I purchased an Interstate Star Sport (Diamond Coverage) extended warranty from Bob's BMW and it covered the replacement of the lower trunk ($938.44 installed less my $50 deductible) absolutely hassle free.

The Bad: No question, this trunk latch will self destruct at some point down the road (got 3 1/4 years and 25K out of the first) as it has the same excessive friction as did the original.

Temporary Solution: I have removed the left-side latch pin from the top trunk as this is the side that broke and still exhibits excessive tightness.

Potential Solution (your thoughts requested): remove the two trunk-top latch pin holders (they appear to be pop riveted in place) and then shim (about .030) and then re-rivet into place. Do you think this would work?
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post #2 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 9:16 am
 
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That would work fine. But I think you get the same result by using a Dremel tool on the moving parts that latch over those pins. Just shave .030 off of them and go from there. Worked for me.
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post #3 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 10:33 am
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Or you can check with Millenhaus (one of our site supporting vendors):


Distributors of the highest quality, hand crafted CNC milled billet aluminum products. Sharing a passion for The Ride seconded only by our passion for 'doing it right'. Our founding product, the Tail Trunk Latch Repair Kit is shipping now. www.millenhaus.com


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post #4 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 11:41 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ytk
--------------Potential Solution (your thoughts requested): remove the two trunk-top latch pin holders (they appear to be pop riveted in place) and then shim (about .030) and then re-rivet into place. Do you think this would work?
I think there is a back-up plate inside that the rivets go through. If you drill out the rivets and the plate moves around, you would have a very difficult time getting it back in place and supported to put the new rivets in.

A better solution is to Dremel off some of the pin contact surface of the latch claws to loosen up the grip. Several have done that.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.

Last edited by dshealey; Jul 17th, 2006 at 12:54 pm.
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post #5 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 12:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljeffe
Or you can check with Millenhaus (one of our site supporting vendors):


Distributors of the highest quality, hand crafted CNC milled billet aluminum products. Sharing a passion for The Ride seconded only by our passion for 'doing it right'. Our founding product, the Tail Trunk Latch Repair Kit is shipping now. www.millenhaus.com
Hmmmm - a well crafted letter to all the companies providing Extended Warranty policies that covers the trunk latch, would seem to me a worthwhile endeavor. And prolly a few of the major BMW dealerships would like to know about the Millenhaus product too!

I watched the first versions being made here locally and wuz definitely impressed with the work and time put in to produce a quality solution to a 'too frequent' problem. And one that offers a lifetime warranty, right??

BMW oughta outsource to Millenhaus for this item. And BTW, what the heck happens to the lower trunks that the insurance companies settle for???
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post #6 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 9:59 pm
 
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Thumbs up Latch

Dave's solution is a good one, I like mine: Just swap out the 5mm pins for some 4mm pins and you will never have latch trouble again.
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post #7 of 18 Old Jul 17th, 2006, 10:10 pm
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Did all the mods to the claws and took off a few thousands off the latch pins and closed with the utmost care on my 02 and it still cracked and turn to S**T. Waited for one of our LTers to CNC a replacment. Seems he lost interest or got side tracked. Wife saw the frustration every time I used the truck. She took it upon herself and ordered one from Millenhaus for my last birthday. Top notch craftsmanship all be it a little spendy. Still cheaper than buying a whole bottom trunk assembly. Works great will recommend too anyone who asks........

Craig Hutchison
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post #8 of 18 Old Jul 18th, 2006, 8:27 am
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Man, my ears are burning over here!!



Glad you like the latch handle, I put a ton of work into the project!!

Last edited by BilletsGalore; Jul 18th, 2006 at 8:33 am.
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post #9 of 18 Old Jul 18th, 2006, 7:34 pm
 
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Trunk Latch

That price for the Millenhaus doesn't seem so bad; I paid $275 for a stock (and therefore weak) used one off a wreck!
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post #10 of 18 Old Jul 18th, 2006, 7:43 pm
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post #11 of 18 Old Jul 18th, 2006, 8:33 pm
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Craig - Evan get's the credit for the parts and how they work. I just did the delivery part. He's done goond - way good.

And I gotta admit, I enjoyed working with your lady to treat ya for your B-day. I'd say she's a keeper

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post #12 of 18 Old Jul 18th, 2006, 10:16 pm
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The dremel tool will take the material off, but it leaves too rough of a surface to not wreck the pins or cause excessive drag. After using the dremel in the corners remove the whole claw and put it in a vice with a couple pieces of carap wood or paint sticks against them so the jaws don't bite into them....have it premarked to take off about .030...and use a hand file going lengthwise on the claw to remove any rough spots caused by the dremel. Actually the material is quite soft...you can use a round file in the corners if you have one.

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post #13 of 18 Old Jul 21st, 2006, 8:07 am
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Angry Trunk Latch Broken

My 2002 LT Rear Trunk Latch broke this week. I contacted Morton's BMW and was told that my Pinnacle Extended Warranty would not cover this. They are checking with BMW to see if they will partially cover (probably one half) a new box and latch. Extimated price of box is $800. Bike came off factory warranty last November and odometer is approx. 30,000 miles. I wonder if this is worth it or just use the money towards the Millenhaus latch? Anyone have experience with Millenhaus latch and how hard is it install? Thanks. John Hieronymus
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post #14 of 18 Old Jul 21st, 2006, 9:04 am
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In Defense of Dremel

Quote:
Originally Posted by riderup1
The dremel tool will take the material off, but it leaves too rough of a surface to not wreck the pins or cause excessive drag.
It's not the dremel tool that makes it rough - it's what you use IN the dremel tool. Mine polished it to a mirror finish - just have to use more bits than what comes with the basic kit.

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post #15 of 18 Old Jul 21st, 2006, 11:10 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riderup1
The dremel tool will take the material off, but it leaves too rough of a surface to not wreck the pins or cause excessive drag. ------.
That depends totally on what tool you are using in the Dremel! I have done a lot of work with them, and if you use a fine grain grinding point for finishing you can get a much smoother finish than the stamped stock finish.

I would use a carbide tool for roughing, then a fine grinding point for finishing.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #16 of 18 Old Jul 21st, 2006, 9:22 pm
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OH yea...I forgot to tell you....after using the file on the claw I used 600 grit wet sandpaper on a paintstick with oil on it to polish it to a smooooooooth finish!

If its got tits or an engine you're gonna have trouble with it

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post #17 of 18 Old Nov 18th, 2007, 11:24 pm
 
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Smile weld it

I took the latch off and tig welded it with a 1/16 4043 aluminum rod , there is room to build it up on the inside.
Ray
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post #18 of 18 Old Nov 19th, 2007, 12:09 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayanbetty
I took the latch off and tig welded it with a 1/16 4043 aluminum rod , there is room to build it up on the inside.
Ray
This thread is 18 months old. I'm guessin' he's got it fixed by now...

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