one of the last things u ever want to see - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 12:21 pm Thread Starter
kip
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Location: Jefferson, GA, USA
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one of the last things u ever want to see

well.....you guys are always posting such good information on here i thought you might all want to see what your gear box drain plug looks like when your gear box has just come apart.....

as i mentioned in an earlier post yesterday my 99 LT developed a bad sound from the gear box area on the way to work yesterday.....

i babied it home coasting alot of the way and this morning I pulled the gear oil plug and saw the sad reality of my gear box......

i figure i will pull the gear box and tear into it and see if it looks salvageable while also looking for a replacement unit.....

if anyone has actually removed their gear box id like to hear about it....

also...if anyone knows what year model gear boxes might be interchangeable id appreciate knowing that too.....

at least this time im armed with a service manual
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Kip
99 LT
97 Shadow 1100
Jefferson, Ga

Last edited by kip; Jul 15th, 2006 at 12:35 pm. Reason: tryin to add pics
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post #2 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 12:26 pm Thread Starter
kip
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jefferson, GA, USA
Posts: 284
pics

apparantly i cant figure out how to attach pics here....
went to manage attachments selected them, hit the upload button....seemed to upload said it was done.....but no pics....

if you're interested email me at [email protected] and ill send u the pics....

basically...its about a half inch high pile of metal on the plug......

ok.....got the pics loaded onto the that first post

Kip
99 LT
97 Shadow 1100
Jefferson, Ga

Last edited by kip; Jul 15th, 2006 at 12:36 pm. Reason: new info
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post #3 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 1:57 pm
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Kip,
I just did mine - 2002 LT.
Go to this thread http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...ission+removal
The biggest problem is suspending the bike. See the picture in the thread.
Some points to remember:
1) Take everything off that the Service Manual says, even if they don't seem to make sense. You need to lower the engine to get at starter motor cables and to slide off gearbox. Get two 8mm bolts (longest possible) at Home Depot and cut off their heads to make the special rods that the SM refers to for re-assembly. Makes it much easier.
2) Replace clutch slave cylinder and probably clutch as well if not already done. I didn't and wish I had for peace of mind.
3) You will probably need the special tool to torque the swing arm with correct bearing pre-load.
4) ...

I was lucky and got a used 1999 box on this site that fitted, so you know up to 2002 will work. I believe 1999-2004 are all good for you, but not sure.
Post in the a ETB in the classified section. I got great response there.

Good luck and feel free to ask me questions via PM if necessary.

-Brian Louw
Arroyo Grande, CA.

2013 K1600GT - Light Grey Metallic
2016 R1200GSA
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post #4 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 2:35 pm Thread Starter
kip
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thanks Brian

well.....it helps to know someone has done it
i read all the posts.....
ive read the manual.....
ive got some of the tupperware off....
i havent figured out just how im going to "hang" it yet....
i see that you used a cherry picker.....did you have that strap wrapped around the frame where the seat would normally be?

im reluctant to take it completely apart until i have a new tranny just from the standpoint that it will be easier to remember how to put it back together if i have the other one there.....and dont have to wait a long time....

im planning on replacing the clutch while im at it.....and it looks like the rear main on the engine my have a slight leak.....not sure what it takes to fix that but i figure while im in there i might as well do it all.....

i just had to do my rear differential a month or two ago.....i used a crows foot open end wrench attached to my torque wrench while holding the torque tube bolt with an allen wrench.....i KNO thats not totally accurate regarding the torque......what i did was set the torque properly with a socket and the torque wrench first....and mark where the nut was...then i backed it off and retorqued the allen bolt and then held it and retorqued the nut......
probably not dead nuts accurate but pretty close.....

i noted that it took you and someone else 5 hours to get the tranny out....
i was wondering just as you had posted whether it was necessary to do every single step the manual says.....but i hear you saying it is....so i will....

did you rebuild your old tranny? or did you sell it on ebay?

i have sent some emails to some salvage yards and posted a couple of want to buy ads so hopefully one will turn up......

wish i knew if newer models would fit to have the option of getting as new and low mileage unit as possible......

guess i can talk to the dealer about that on Monday.....as far as what models will work

if you dont mind id love to get ur number in case i run into anything along the way......if u could either PM that to me here or email it to [email protected] id appreciate it......

Kip
99 LT
97 Shadow 1100
Jefferson, Ga
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post #5 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 3:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kip

i just had to do my rear differential a month or two ago.....i used a crows foot open end wrench attached to my torque wrench while holding the torque tube bolt with an allen wrench.....i KNO thats not totally accurate regarding the torque......what i did was set the torque properly with a socket and the torque wrench first....and mark where the nut was...then i backed it off and retorqued the allen bolt and then held it and retorqued the nut......
probably not dead nuts accurate but pretty close.....
You can get away with that on the diff pivot, but the swingarm is different. The locknut is against the surface of the bearing holder, so it turns when you torque the locknut to 160Nm. Basically you are torqueing the one against the other.


Quote:
i noted that it took you and someone else 5 hours to get the tranny out....
Inluding lunch break and being the first time.

Quote:
if you dont mind id love to get ur number in case i run into anything along the way......if u could either PM that to me here or email it to [email protected] id appreciate it......
Sent you PM

BTW, you have already seen my old tranny on eBay .

-Brian Louw
Arroyo Grande, CA.

2013 K1600GT - Light Grey Metallic
2016 R1200GSA
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post #6 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 5:29 pm
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one of the last things you want to see

Sorry to hear about your transmission. I have just changed my clutch and as said else where do everything the manual says. I used axle stands and lowered the engine/transmimssion rather than raising the back of the bike but it was interesting putting them in place. For the special tool i purchased a deep 30mil socket and a few minutes with an angle grinder created an aperture - you might then need to use the angle grinder to change the length of the 12 mil allen key. Give me a shout if you need any more info.

Graham Wintersgill
On the bonnnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond

2001 K1200LT

1995 K75RT now deceased
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post #7 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 6:35 pm
 
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Brian - what part on your gear box failed? What do you think caused it?

Kip - let us know also when you get into it.

This seems to occur with higher mileage/older transmissions. I think I've read about a half dozen here with mileages between 80,000 and 140,000 miles. I think they were 1999-2002.

If anybody wants to start a database, I'll contribute my data. 2000 K1200LT, 136,000 miles, lower two mating gears had broken teeth, cause unknown, fixed under extended warranty, rear wheel locked up at 50mph when down shifting from 5th to 4th and crashed at 20mph. Transmission slipped out of gear and shifted roughly the last few shifts. BMW dealer repair was $3500.
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post #8 of 9 Old Jul 15th, 2006, 8:42 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVipond
Brian - what part on your gear box failed? What do you think caused it?

.
I am not sure exacly what failed, but Lonestar BMW said it was probably the engagement teeth for 4th gear. They estimated $1000+ in parts plus labor to repair and R&R. Symptoms are that it feels like it slips a few teeth when putting on any power in 4th. I had a rough shift into 4th for some time before that and actually reported it when it was under warranty. Unfortunately I have lost the paper work and Lonestar has as well. I didn't buy the bike form them, so didn't push the issue. I bought it from Victory in Chandler with about 13k on it. So what can you do? That was about two years ago. The gearbox had about 42k when it went.
I decided to put it on eBay 'as is'. Tempted to open it out of curiosity, but then wouldn't know what to do with all the little bits and pieces.
Also, looks like you need some special measuring jigs to set it up properly.

-Brian Louw
Arroyo Grande, CA.

2013 K1600GT - Light Grey Metallic
2016 R1200GSA
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post #9 of 9 Old Jul 16th, 2006, 9:27 am Thread Starter
kip
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shifting to 4th

mine has had a weird feel to it when shifting to 4th for a long time....
didnt seem to affect anything but you always knew it was 3rd to 4th just from the feel of the gear change.....

think ill probably use a cherry picker also .....i am going to wait to disassemble the whole thing until i have another gearbox and the clutch parts on hand.....hoping that i can take it all apart and put it back within a weekend......

just got to find a gearbox......

i appreciate all you guys info and im sure ill probably be asking some questions once i get into it.....

Kip
99 LT
97 Shadow 1100
Jefferson, Ga
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