ABS problem results - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Jul 12th, 2006, 1:25 am Thread Starter
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Talking ABS problem results

Ok gang this is the results of my ABS problem.

1st. The battery was bad. Battery was replaced but the problems still exsisted.

2nd. There is a relay that is attached to the ABS unit. It had to be removed cleaned and given a little rap. Replaced and everything works fine now.

Victory BMW of Chandler, AZ did the work. I called them first thing this morning and spoke to the Service manager and explained that I wanted them to make sure the battery was good and to check the sensor clearance were correct. Jim told me the computer read would tell them if there were battery or sensor problems. Wow, I am from the old school where you used feeler gages to check clearances. Did not realize the computer could do that job specifically.

So I did not have to spend $1700 dollars on parts and 6 hrs of labor. Yea!!!
So now I can still afford new shocks and steering dampener.

Thanks to all who responed with ideas of what the problem may have been.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
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post #2 of 13 Old Jul 12th, 2006, 5:46 pm
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Any idea where this ABS relay is? I think I try tapping on mine.

I've not had ABS for about 8 months...and I'm pissed about it. I got a 12 year old GMC truck with 130K that's never given me any ABS problems...but the ULTIMATE MACHINE has had more ABS troubles in 30K miles than I thought possible.

Of course, I probably wouldn't know if I fixed it...cause I'd next have to drive 4 1/2 hours, one way, to my nearest BMW shop to get them to clear the computer before it would recognize the fix and allow it to work again.


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post #3 of 13 Old Jul 12th, 2006, 7:56 pm
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You can always clear the errors out of your computer by pulling the fuse and letting it all sit for a few hours.

Unless, I'm badly mistaken, mis-informed, ignorant and smell badly.

wouldn't be the first time....

Tate

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post #4 of 13 Old Jul 12th, 2006, 8:00 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robasay
Ok gang this is the results of my ABS problem.
2nd. There is a relay that is attached to the ABS unit. It had to be removed cleaned and given a little rap. Replaced and everything works fine now.
I would replace the relay. A sealed relay that needs to be cleaned (and rapped) needs to be replaced.... unless you like having brake problems!
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post #5 of 13 Old Jul 12th, 2006, 10:32 pm Thread Starter
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ABS relay

According to the Service manager. To get to the relay you have to pull the gas tank, which means pulling the skin. The relay is covered by one of the supports for the tank at the front of the ABS unit.

As far as replacing the relay as apposed to cleaning the contacts and lightly tapping the relay. I believe the light tap approach would be first on my list. You can replace the relay, however.

According to service manager this relay sticking problems also occurs with the starter relay and there it is a bigger job pulling the starter. The relay problems usually start with a bad battery. So if you have not had a bad battery then your ABS problem may be something else.

The cost of the new gel battery was $100.00 then all the rest $333.00 was for labor replacing the battery and clearing the relay. So it may be easier to take it to you favorite dealer and have them check the relay.

In my relay they wanted to get to it to put a meter on it then cleaned the contacts.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
"The True Red Dragon"
1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
1986 Gold Wing Interstate "Blue Babe"
1978 Gold Wing
1976 Kawasaki 900
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post #6 of 13 Old Jul 12th, 2006, 11:01 pm
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I ended up rapping hte relay when this happened to me about a year ago - battery went bad, then the alternator drive shaft went blooey.

all fixed under my aftermarket extended warranty.
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post #7 of 13 Old Jul 13th, 2006, 2:55 am
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Can one of you guys get a pic of the relay? That might be helpful to have as part of this thread.

Ken
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Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #8 of 13 Old Jul 13th, 2006, 6:59 am
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My thoughts exactly. So far I haven't found it on any of the parts diagrams.

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post #9 of 13 Old Jul 13th, 2006, 8:14 pm
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Well, I have been having ABS problems for the last month and a half. A really slow flash between the two ABS lights in the dash, about second delay between the changes. I PM'ed Raffy about when he put the PC680 in Rover and he told me about 4 years ago. So I went bought a new one from Batteries Plus and installed it in the bike. Now the lights wig wag but about a half a second between changes, which is what I think is about correct before the rolling health check. I've pulled the fuse to Moronic to reset the throttle sensor, because I forgot to do that after putting the battery in. If this doesn't let the bike recover the ABS health check in the morning, I'll ride up to the dealer and have them reset the computer. Only problem with that is, I'll have to fill up with gas before I go and you know what that's gonna due to the low gas level indicator on the dash.

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post #10 of 13 Old Jul 13th, 2006, 10:48 pm
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Das is goot, ya?

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post #11 of 13 Old Feb 4th, 2011, 1:59 pm
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Re: ABS problem results

I had my ABS lights flash on me at the Natl rally. Changed the btry and checked everything I could think of. Finally I put some fluid in the rear reservoirs. There are 2 together under the seat. Lights went off. I guess the brake pads wore and the fluid got a little low. Pads were less than 1/2 worn.
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post #12 of 13 Old Feb 4th, 2011, 2:42 pm
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Re: ABS problem results

The relay is in the electronics box

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post #13 of 13 Old Feb 4th, 2011, 5:12 pm
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ETF Pressure modulator LT05

Hey Guys,

Lost my ....ABS AGAIN!!
3 days ago, heard the pressure modulator dynamo functioning non stop..and the damned light appeared!

step 1: GT1 gave me an"idle negative contact" for the MOTRONIC and an indepth ABS check gave me 1 of the ceramic pressure sensor with a 0 value and the other 3 off the chart (a good reading should be between 12 and 30 bar per sensor)
step 2: checked both of the sensors and respective wiring down to the modulators'plug
step 3: Checked both of the front and rear brake switches + wires: NAda/niente/nothing
step 4: Clearence NOTHING!
step 5: (Just to make sure there was no negative contact from the bike) removed the ABS plug and turned on the bike: All was good, NO flashing light.
step 6: Drained the sucker! unpluged and removed the rear drive aid and finally the pressure modulator.
step 7: unscrued the control unit and voila, traces of water/salts...on the controll unit...
step 8: contact cleaner brush/magnifier/back light.......clean board=no electronic resistance......OHM meter checked the (electronic protection components (upper half part of the board) Nothing all seemed well..
step 9: hoocked the board to the unit and the bike, contact, everything was working fine.
FELT LIKE GOD ALM IGHTY!!! 3minutes later.....flashing light and the continuous hum of the dynamo....................To cut the story short after all the tests...........and 4 days of work:
I need a referb.kit: Control board + 4 ceramic pressure sensors!!!!
my hydraulics are fine BUT my electronics are f...!! Does anyone know if we can get that instead of buying the modulator?

Ps: We should make some pressure on BMW this is not f...acceptable I'm down to my 3rd modulator (including this one) since 05 /40.000 km and I'm on a plane most of the time..I know there are allllllot of similar cases with that ETF unit and there are injuries due to blocked front wheels from residual power...HELP!

Thanks, Z.
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