Tools needed to change out rear drive? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 6 Old Jun 28th, 2006, 11:03 pm Thread Starter
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Question Tools needed to change out rear drive?

Earlier this spring, I purchased a spare rear drive from a local club member who had triked his LT. I had the drive inspected by the mechanic of the former BMW of South Bend, who is now doing independent work on BMW's locally. He replaced the rear bearing with the 17-ball bearing, so now I've got a complete rear drive to have on hand if I have a problem.

What I'd like to do is to create an emergency box, complete with the rear drive and tools needed to change out my rear drive if it fails when on the road. I'd have this box all packed and ready to be overnighted to where-ever I may be broken down.

I've printed out manual directions on how to swap out the drive and all looks pretty straight forward, but the manual doesn't divulge what size sockets or tools/supplies needed to do the change.

Any of you ace mechanics able to give me the rundown? Should I pack a heat gun to break the locktight on the bearing studs and locknut? What other tools do I need? Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Paul Rakestraw
South Bend, IN
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post #2 of 6 Old Jun 29th, 2006, 12:49 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdrstraw
Earlier this spring, I purchased a spare rear drive from a local club member who had triked his LT. I had the drive inspected by the mechanic of the former BMW of South Bend, who is now doing independent work on BMW's locally. He replaced the rear bearing with the 17-ball bearing, so now I've got a complete rear drive to have on hand if I have a problem.

What I'd like to do is to create an emergency box, complete with the rear drive and tools needed to change out my rear drive if it fails when on the road. I'd have this box all packed and ready to be overnighted to where-ever I may be broken down.

I've printed out manual directions on how to swap out the drive and all looks pretty straight forward, but the manual doesn't divulge what size sockets or tools/supplies needed to do the change.

Any of you ace mechanics able to give me the rundown? Should I pack a heat gun to break the locktight on the bearing studs and locknut? What other tools do I need? Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Paul Rakestraw
South Bend, IN
Replacing the final drive is not so difficult. You will need the 30MM socket, and a 12 MM allen wrench above the normal tools.

The only real "special" tool you need is the cutaway 30MM socket to allow you to hold the left side pivot bolt from turning with the 12MM allen wrench when you tighten the 30MM lock nut. If the bike has not had the final drive removed since it left the factory there should not be any Loctite on the pivot bolts and locknuts. There is not supposed to be Loctite on them, but some dealer mechanics would be lost without their Loctite bottles, and slather it all over everything. Grif would love the taste of it.

Have some large zip ties to hold the brake caliper up out of the way when you remove it.

Don't worry about drive shaft U-joint phasing, You have to remove and mark the drive shaft to do that, and that requires removal of the swing arm, way too much work. You can always go through that later, if you feel any vibration and think it is warranted. The service manual does not even specify phasing, although that is something that should always be done on a simple U-joint system.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #3 of 6 Old Jun 29th, 2006, 2:20 am
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What David said is correct. If it's just a rear drive replacement, you should be OK with the cutaway 30mm socket and 12mm allen wrench. I've had to use huge breaker bars and/or heat to remove several swingarm pivot bolts, but hopefully the one rear drive pivot bolt won't be that bad. And you're supposed to torque them down in sequence, but very light torque on the inner pivot bolt and lots of torque on the outer pivot bolt and inner lock nut should get you home OK.

But if you're making an emergency kit to be shipped out as needed, then adding a torque wrench or two wouldn't hurt. Or you could probably borrow those from any local bike or car repair shop.

As for phasing the drive shaft, I'd probably just mark how the old drive comes out and match that to the new one. Simple enough, even in a parking lot in Small Town, USA.

Ken
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'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
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Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #4 of 6 Old Jun 29th, 2006, 8:57 am Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Thanks guys...

OK.....so in addition to my spare rear drive and stock tool kit from my LT, my list includes:

30mm cutaway socket
12mm allen wrench
zip ties
heat gun or hair dryer to break loctite seal
torque wrench(s)
pages from service manual

Does that sound complete?

I'm at 53k now on my '01 LT. My rear drive was replaced under warranty with an entire rear drive unit at 27k, so I'm pretty confident the dealer used some loctite on the pivot bolts.

It may sound like a lot of trouble, but I think it would sure be more handy to only have to worry about getting to the next motel and await overnight shipping of my "emergency box" than to have to find the nearest dealer. That dealer may or may not have a bearing to fix my LT anyway...so if I were to be close to a dealer, my planning would still come in handy.

Any other thoughts, tips, or recommendations will be appreciated!


Paul Rakestraw
South Bend, IN
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post #5 of 6 Old Jun 29th, 2006, 10:33 am
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Hmmm.. well, might want to practice loosening the above mentioned swingarm and retorque... just to know the procedure ... and make sure you CAN DO IT!.... Then ride the bike through an oil change to make sure all is well. .. Sorry, much easier to KNOW there is a functional parachute BEFORE departing the aircraft...

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #6 of 6 Old Jun 29th, 2006, 10:36 am
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Don't forget oil for the drive. Would not want oil in it for shipping, but fill it after installation.

Ken is right in that it would be fine to just install the left side pivot bolt just tight enough to know there is no play in the bearing, mark it's position (pencil marks on the housing aligned with one of the flats of the hex socket) and tighten the locknut being sure the stud did not move, then do the proper torqueing procedure when you are safely home.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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