I was out for ride and stopped for coffee. When I went to start it there was no power. I bump started the bike and rode for a few minutes when I noticed the the heat needle was way past red line. I pulled over and let it sit for an hour to cool down. When I tried to start it still no power and when I hit the starter button the light go off, weird eh!
Anybody have any ideas what the problem is?
Jimmy Mac

Battery connections loose?

I wish but it does not appear to be a battery issue.

How old is your battery? If near 5 years you may be due for a replacement. The bike electronics do funny things when the battery is weak...

Battery is old and has not been holding a charge very well lately. Probably the place to start.
Thanks

Easy to trouble shoot. Try jump starting it. If it works, you likely need a new battery. Jumping it with a car battery will not harm it. Also, your headlamp is supposed to go out when you press the starter. My guess is that you have the upgraded starter relay and it is cutting off the starter due to low voltage.

Typically when my battery starts nearing replacement time the starter sounds just a little different, a little bit slower.

Bob

Charged the battery and it seemed to take the charge. Still nothing but a click when I try the starter. Despite this might it still be the battery. If not any suggestions what else to try.

Jump it from a car as someone mentioned earlier. Use large cables. That will definitively rule the battery out.

Put a volt meter on it when starting, shouldn't go below 10 vdc.

Good battery without starting = 12.4-12.8 vdc.

Turn key ON, everything lights up, hit starter button hear a click and all the lights go out=dead battery.

since u have an 00 u must be careful if the defective starter relay hasn't been replace, it will weld closed when the voltage gets too low.

Reports were that it could be freed back to open with repeated attemps at hitting it after disconnecting the battery. Other wize people used after market relays from autos and made up their own wiring harness. the BMW up grade involves more than replacing just the relay and very expensive.
Bob

I had exactly the same problem, replicating every symptom. I am not mechanical, so when I broke down (2002 LT) the bike was trucked to a BMW dealership. Providing I have been given the right information by the dealership it was a loose starter motor connection. Initially the dealership presumed it was a battery which they replaced. It made no difference, so the old battery was re-fitted. On close inspection the loose connection was found, and tightened. Fault cured!
In the year since there has been no repetition.
Hope this helps.
Phil

Phil
Wow this is great info. I will track down the loose connection and hope that does the trick. Any idea where the connection was? There is a ground wire on the starter or was it at one of the two relays.

Thanks for the help.
Jim

Did you try jump starting it? If not, do so. If it jump starts, you need to replace your battery. If it does not jump start, continue your trouble shooting unless you just like chasing your tail. If you like chasing your tail, continue trouble shooting before you try jump starting it. That's as plain as I can make it.

Given that he has ignored this suggestion at least twice now, it is clear he likes chasing his tail.

Indeed I tried a booster (jump start at a motorcycle shop) without success. Also I put a voltage meter on the battery and it reads 12.7. I haven't jump started it from a car. Is this different from the booster? I had ruled out the battery as the problem. Are you suggesting that despite this it could still be the battery.

As suggested try jumper cables to your car battery, it's real simple

Ok I'll try it.

Didn't mean to be snippy, but we didn't know you had tried a jump start. I would try jumping it from a car to be sure. If that doesn't work, you are probably looking the right direction. Your main ground lug is just in front of and below the battery. Easy access by removing the left foot peg holder plate or removing the battery and bending a wrench to check tightness.

If the jumper test from your car battery does not work you can check for 12 volts at the tie point directly behind battery, the smaller wire from the starter relay comes out of the wiring harness on the right side and connects there, when you push the starter button with key on you should see the voltage, if you hear the relay click but no voltage the relay contact might be bad.

Tie points and the infamous ground screw for the starter. Also wiggle the F - R knob as there are two switches associated with that and the starter signal goes through one of them.

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Hi Jimmymac, earlier this year my bike headlights and battery meter reading looked perfect. My reason for checking no EHCS deployment and would not start. Just hear engagement of starter but barely a quarter turn of the engine. The fact that the lights and meter said battery was good. I changed it out and voila no more problems. Some good advice here regarding boosting the old girl.

Tried jump starting from the car, still nothing. Put the voltage meter on the connection points and pushed starter with no voltage reading. Unless I was doing this wrong it appears like it is a bad connection of some sort. As you know it is not easy to get at the starter relay in the electrical box under the gas tank but it may come to that. Anything else I should try before tearing it back to the electrical box?

if key on starter button pushed and no 12 volts to battery ground would seem relay contacts bad - you indicate you could hear relay click

if you want with key off you can use a short jumper from +12 on battery to tie point for starter rear of battery and motor will spin - will turn motor over

You haven't, by chance, removed the top case recently have you? There are two barrel connectors under the frame rail on the left side that often get undone when removing the top case and the starter signal goes through them to the reverser controller and back to the starter relay. Just check them first before pulling the tank. Then the next time you do have her running try reverse and see if that works.

Will do.
Thanks

Long process but wanted to post the final result and solution to my issue. Turns out that the ground wire on the starter had come loose and indeed worked sometimes but not always. After replacing the battery (due anyways as it was nine years old) and the starter relay and testing numerous wires etc we found the problem. Tightened the nut on the ground and away it went. What can I say, this is a frustrating process but a good result in the end. The temperature gage had not been connected properly hence the temp needle topping out well over the red line. The two issues not related as it turns out.

Putting her back together and riding tomorrow.

Thanks to all who chimed in with help. Hope I can return the favour sometime.

Cheers
Jimmy Mac

relay pin out?

I know these battery, starter starter button

What is the second blade connector for , it is connected to starter button conneter with a resistor.

I changed relay with ford type, the tied those blade connectors together

I must have that. When the bike sits for a few weeks it may turn over the first try and start but once in awhile if it don't fire right away and i try for a second time it's no go till I put the charger on for a few mins. I know i need a new battery though. That will happen next spring.

It is the battery. A battery holding a charge will not tell you if it is good. You have to do a load test. Ideal battery voltages should hold above 13 volts and be able to deliver specified cold cranking amps under load. LT's need batteries that are in good shape with proper voltage and ability to provide needed CCA or funny electrical gremlins will surface and/or it will not start.