Shifter => Transmission Linkage Stud Broke - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:06 pm Thread Starter
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Shifter => Transmission Linkage Stud Broke

Fortunately, I wasn't far from home. I was at a stop light, then when I shifted to first (or tried to) the shifter just flopped down and I had to push the beast out of traffic. The stud between the shifter and the linkage sheared. It really looks like cheap metal (the stud). Anyway, was able to work the linkage into first gear with some help from three great guys and get home. Funny, never had these problems with the Roadking...only had simple things like a stator burn out, and bearings needing replacement, and .....

Reido
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post #2 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:11 pm
 
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Had it break on me two seperate times. A lot of us keep spare parts "in stock"...in the saddlebag.
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post #3 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:15 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Had it break on me two seperate times. A lot of us keep spare parts "in stock"...in the saddlebag.
Better add it to the list! Requires an extractor to get it out. I took it apart and gave it to BMW to fix. It's warranted. There's really no excuse for that to break twice (or once for that matter). Cheap shit.

Reido
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post #4 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:20 pm
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Shift Linkage Replacement Kit

I've got a bolt in replacement that is 50% stronger. The kit includes a left hand drill bit, an Easy Out, and the new linkage. I sell the linkage only for $40.00 and the entire kit for $52.00 delivered to your front door via Priority Mail. A personal check is fine.

Phil W. Johnston
5519 147th Avenue NE
Forest River, ND 58233
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post #5 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:21 pm
 
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If it's the part that screws into the shifter arm, it really doesn't need "extracted". Both times mine broke, I was able to screw the broken piece all the way through the arm. Along with the spare parts, I do carry the proper bit and easy-out thought. Just in case. On LONG trips, I even carry a small cordless drill.
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post #6 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:32 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philjohn
I've got a bolt in replacement that is 50% stronger. The kit includes a left hand drill bit, an Easy Out, and the new linkage. I sell the linkage only for $40.00 and the entire kit for $52.00 delivered to your front door via Priority Mail. A personal check is fine.

Phil W. Johnston
5519 147th Avenue NE
Forest River, ND 58233
I'll keep it in mind, Phil. I was just perusing other threads on this...sure seems to be a common problem. And I thought I was just so special!!!

Reido
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post #7 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 2:35 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
If it's the part that screws into the shifter arm, it really doesn't need "extracted". Both times mine broke, I was able to screw the broken piece all the way through the arm. Along with the spare parts, I do carry the proper bit and easy-out thought. Just in case. On LONG trips, I even carry a small cordless drill.
That would probably work (and the drill is an awesome idea). But the shifter hex bolt is gooped up with so much loctite that I couldn't budge it to remove it in order to get in behind the broken threaded bolt. Even in the vise. I figured BMW can deal with it.

Reido
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post #8 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 3:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid
I'll keep it in mind, Phil. I was just perusing other threads on this...sure seems to be a common problem. And I thought I was just so special!!!
Really hurts to find out you are just a plain, ordinary, run of the mill LT owner, doesn't it.

Actually, that stud is pretty high quality, same exact part is available in industry and some car uses. It is just a little undersized if one is "heavy booted" shifting, or if it works loose and starts wiggling side to side during shifting. It is heat treated steel, not cheap stuff. I broke one in 120,000 miles.

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post #9 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 8:19 pm
 
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It is just a little undersized if one is "heavy booted" shifting...
Yep! That's me! Admittedly, I do get a little rambunctious with my shifting when the riding gets . . . um . . . "spirited".
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post #10 of 16 Old Jun 24th, 2006, 9:00 pm
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Hd

Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Yep! That's me! Admittedly, I do get a little rambunctious with my shifting when the riding gets . . . um . . . "spirited".
Joe didn't you talk about some heavy duty replacement studs at Howards place last week?
Rock
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post #11 of 16 Old Jun 25th, 2006, 5:48 am
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Yep, been there.

One of the things I learned when I first got the LT compared to most other bikes is that you don't need to try nearly as hard to get it into gear. Less then half way in with the clutch and a gentle push into first gear.

I use to think the same thing you do since I had a bke prior that I use to muscle into gear. With this bike, muscling will break linkage.

Lve and learn.
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post #12 of 16 Old Jun 25th, 2006, 6:23 pm
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Mine has broken twice, and the other bike that I ride is a Sprint ST, you don't even have to use the clutch, and just put a little pressure on the shifter. I have been very gentle, it is a design flaw, but I will live with it.

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post #13 of 16 Old Jul 3rd, 2006, 9:42 am
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Does anyone know if tihs is a problem with the newer 2005+ bikes?

Jim in Dublin, OH

2005 - LT Ocean Blue (Catuffalo - Part Cat / Part Buffalo)
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post #14 of 16 Old Jul 3rd, 2006, 10:17 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsciullo
Does anyone know if tihs is a problem with the newer 2005+ bikes?
The 05 linkage is identical to the pre-05s. Even if you're a gentle shifter, if you drop the bike to the left hard enough to apply heavy pressure on the shift lever, the overstress on the ball studs (there are 4 of them in the linkage) and/or threaded shafts may cause them to fail later -- my first LT's linkage broke ~4K after a heavy drop. That's part of the reason I carry spares in the tool kit -- not because I have a heavy foot, but in case I drop it on a trip far from home.

Mark Neblett
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post #15 of 16 Old Jul 4th, 2006, 10:07 am
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Shift linkage fix

I just replaced all four rod ends with some "industrial grade" sealed units and greased the two pivot shafts...SLICK! I cannot believe the cheap $hit BMW is using. Next I will have to fix the front end wobble, and then the headlight adjuster. Has anybody took the temperature of your headlight ground wire lately? "That's HOT". I've fixed soooooo much nickle and dime $hit on this $20K bike. What next?
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post #16 of 16 Old Jul 4th, 2006, 4:33 pm
 
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Overengineered but not cheap!!!

I agree with David on this, these parts are not cheap. The common sense thing here is to make everything as heavy as required as to make it unbreakable. This is not the goal of the engineering staff of any German vehicle manufacturer as far as I can tell. I was amazed when working with M-B the trouble they took to reduce the weight of of there cars. They all ran the smallest ga. wire possible and backed it up with relays' certainly not a "cheap" way to go. For years M-B's used vacuum operated door locks to cut weight. It came apparent that the engineers decide how these cars/bikes were to be built and I am sure they have there reasons. I would like to know how many times our shifters have failed "after" a drop to the left or the fasteners had come loose. We may not always like some of the things that happen in the real world as a result of the way our bikes are engineered but everything is a trade off. I personally like the way my bike handles, rides and runs so much that I am willing to put up with some stuff--it's all a package.
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