No need to remove the battery cover etc to get to the banjo bolt on the line running from the Rear master cylinder inside the right driver foot peg cover. The upper connection that ties the OEM Rear Master Cylinder hose to the hard line running to the ABS is mounted on a piece of thin metal sheeting. It can be moved with pliers grabbing the metal bracket. This make is easier to get clean access to the hex head of the Banjo Bolt. But it is made even easier if you remove both mounting bolts of the rear shock and then slide the rear shock down. This opens up the area where you can get a larger access area. Remember also that when you replace the lines that the hard metal part of each brake line ( the round ends for the banjo bolt to go through) mounts on the counter clockwise side of the metal tab of the hard line connector. This metal tab keeps the line from rotating when torquing the banjo bolts.
Removing at least the front air filter horn (remove the second section of the air filter horn if you have stipped the gas tank off the bike) to have more access area to the two connectors up under the nose cone). Working from the right side at the same height as the connections is much easier than having to come from underneath!
Don't forget to reinstall the rear shock and put medium grade Locktite on the bolts.
You can Reverse flush-bleed the front and rear control circuits and the front and rear wheel circuits. Simple to do..Gets all the air out. You won't generate any fault codes. And you will have fully operational control circuits and wheel circuits with no air left in the circuits.
And for those who don't know what is meant by the word circuit when used in context of brakes. Not talking about electrical circuits, but how the brake fluid travels from reservoir to master cylinder to each wheel and how it travels from the reservoir to the ABS unit. Remember with the LT, we have 4 circuits: 2 for the ABS control circuits and 2 for the Wheel Circuits. The wheel and control circuits are not inter-connected. That is why if and when the ABS stops working we have "residual Braking". Means no ABS assisted braking. Or rather back to manual braking.
To clear all of the air from the lines and the iABS unit. Don't follow the service manual procedure. Get the Phoenix V-5 reverse bleeder...sells for about $60. For the Front and Rear Control Circuits: At F3 and R3 bleeder tube (horizontal on 02 to 04 and vertical on 05 and up...these are the long bleeder tube on the ABS not the short ones.....on the 99-2001 you would use the two short bleeder on top the ABS unit)...REVERSE flush clean new brake fluid through F3 and R3 into the iABS and up to the handle bar reservoir for F3 and to the Rear Reservoir under the passenger seat for 02-04 or on the iABS reservoirs on the 05 and up until there is no air bubbles coming out at the reservoir. BUT and I will say it again BUT Monitor at the base of the bleeders for leakage as you pressure brake fluid into the ABS....if it leaks...FLUSH WITH WATER everything below the ABS module....ALSO monitor and remove fluid at each reservoir to avoid spills. One person can reverse flush the rear control circuit by just attaching a tube to the vents on top of the reservoirs under the passenger seat on 02-04 models. As you push fluid through the iABS for the rear control, the fluid will exit out the vent. On the Front control circuit..it exits at the reservoir tank on the right handle bar....works better with a helper to syphon off fluid as it enters the reservoir tank. PUT A QUARTER in the handle bar tank to keep a geyser of brake fluid from squirting all over you, the bike and the garage!
For the wheel circuits, which do run through the iABS, but do not connect to the control circuits, Begin at the Front left caliper and then do the right caliper and on the Rear Brake-begin on the left bleed screw and then the right bleed screw: Flush until no air remains. Reverse flush from the Calipers up to the reservoir. The out put of fluid will occur through the vent tubes on the reservoirs under the passenger seat. On 05 and up this will occur on the iABS module...you will have to monitor fluid rise or buy the screw down vent tube port used on the 02-04 models and screw into the reservoir on 05 and up connecting a tube to the collection bottle.
After Reverse flushing the Front and Rear wheel circuits, I also flushed from the reservoirs down to the Calipers..just to make sure that I did not have any residual air in the wheel circuits. I noticed a few very smal air bubbles in my output return lines to the collection bottle. All total I used more than 2 quarts of fresh fluid. I probably flushed new fluid longer than I needed to flush. But brake fluid is cheap.
Remember to flush all surfaces with water to neutralize any spilled brake fluid even if you don't see it.
I just did this two nights back! On my lift with my LT strapped down, I removed the rear wheel pan and used a ratchet strap to pull down the rear of the LT to raise the front wheel about a 1/4 inch off the lift. Started the LT and dropped into 1st gear. With the rear wheel turning I spun the front wheel in the direction of travel and checked for any faults showing on the dash board. No faults.
Next I attached my GS-911 for any fault codes. None presently showing!
To celebrate a successful "All brake line replacement and flushing/bleeding of my lines and iABS and NO FAULT CODES" I went inside and made a huge Dagwood type sandwich!
Now I am replacing as many of the crappy OEM electric line covers that are disintegrating that I can get my gorrilla hand near! It is amazing that these covers are not more heat resistant...! sigh! Oh well It is what it is!
I want to again thank John Aka Jzeiler for all his help and the Northern Illinois BMW club videos and their president. All great resources!
None of this should be scary or intimidating! Yes we need to depend on our brakes and their proper functioning. But there is no reason to have to give your dealer $1,000 plus to replace your lines and flush your system with new fluid with no air in the system. You just need to know that it isn't a couple of hour job. Take your time, even if it is one or two days! You will learn how to maintain your bike, understand how it works, see other things to upgrade and or maintain. And when you ride down the road you can take pride in knowing it was done right and that you did it. And you saved $700-$800 in the process. Don't get in a rush or hurry! Let it be a cathartic process and a...be one with the bike! You will be amazed at how good you feel! And what is the downside if you mess it up! Well a little more time sorting it out! A little more brake fluid! And maybe the price of beer and pizza for one of us here on the forum to come over and give you a hand.. or sit and supervise your doing it.....lol Bottom line with all the experience on this forum and willingness that I have witnessed of others to help...there isn't anything that can't be tackled. Thanks to all!