So, I got all the IABS parts removed, ran new lines as documented, pulled the controller card out of the ABS modulator placed it inside a plastic zip lock bag and went for a very short ride to test the brakes SANS servo.
I also noticed that the brake lights are on without applying either brake. Could the brake light switches be causing a no start? I doubt it, but I will try to set the rear brake rod actuator adjustment.
Please don't bother posting about why I removed the servo assist, it failed for the second time and I just can't afford to pay $2300 for a new unit.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
On IABS models, both brake switches signal is feed into the ABS-Unit electronics (the top of the unit with the big conenctor that you kept).
As Dean said, the signal is such that it is reversed compare to most brake switches of earler models (or bike from Japan): there should be switch continuity between the 2 wires when lever/pedal is at rest and the circuit is interrupted (no continuity) when brake is applied (in fact switch should "Click" fairly early in lever/pedal travel).
The consequences of that design is that any time either switch is disconnected from circuit (or a wire broken) the ABS-modulator "thinks" that lever/pedal is pressed. The same behavior will happen if either switch is stuck "on" when ignition is turned ON (you should NOT press brakes during IABS diagnostic period (2 to 5 seconds after ignition ON).
To eliminate cause, you can follow each front/rear switch connector and use OhmMeter to check continuity with and without lever/pedal applied (ignition is OFF for these tests). Because some work was done on the ABS-unit (to separate electronics) I would suspect that something was damaged - either in the delicate pins of the big modulator connector OR inside the connection between connector and the circuit board.
In your case, the best 1st test would be at the large ABS-modulator connector - this way you would know if continuity is "as expected" at that level - just before entering the unit. be careful when pulling out that big connector, some of the pins (on the modulator side) are quite delicate. See 2 attached picture for pins to use with OhmMeter.
*** IMPORTANT: I would suggest to disconnect battery before you work on this - just in case you touch wrong pins.