Rear brake disk question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Jun 18th, 2006, 6:54 pm Thread Starter
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Rear brake disk question

Just got back from a 5000+ mile trip. I swear the bike runs better now than when I started out on the trip. Got home and the bike was filthy so I have washed it and removed the tupperware for a thorough cleaning. Ended up riding many miles of dirt and mud roads during the travels. While cleaning the rear wheel I noticed a grinding noise when rotating the wheel. It does not grind all the way around but just at a certain spot for about a 1/4 of the rotation. I have about 18000 miles on the bike. It appears that it may be a warped disk. Anyone else have this problem and do you think it may be covered under warranty? It is an 05 LT.

Marc Pillis- MSF Rider Coach
Union, Kentucky
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post #2 of 13 Old Jun 18th, 2006, 8:22 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpillis
Anyone else have this problem and do you think it may be covered under warranty? It is an 05 LT.
I don't know how far you are from the dealer but I would remove the rear pads and spin the tire on the center stand. I doubt it is a warped disk. I haven't heard of that happening... lots of other issues with noises.. But an 05 with 18K has to be a warranty issue even if you are not the original owner..

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post #3 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 8:27 am
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rear brake disk

Well Marc if you used your rear brake a lot on your trip you may have a warped disk, as they do get hot , I have gone threw two rear disk (99LT). I use my front brakes now 98 % of the time.
You may have a bad rear wheel bearing ? If you spin the wheel on the center stand does it want to stop and not continue to rotate smoothly
Just some thoughts...
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post #4 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 11:22 am Thread Starter
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Brake disc

I do tend to use the rear brake more now after reading that using the front brake alot may cause prmature cupping of the front tire. I was just in the garage and looking at removing the rear brake pads but am not sure how to. I do see the little pin/clips and the rods to pull out, but there is a "kinda spring loaded bracket" that I do not know how to remove. It is sorta brass colored. Anyone know how to remove it?

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Union, Kentucky
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post #5 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 11:30 am
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Marc,

Pull the clips followed by the pins. Then tug on the anti-rattle spring - it will pop right out. You may have to wiggle the pads a bit to push back the pistons, then they will fall right out. Keep track of the inner and outer pads and replace them back where they came from, also note the orientation of the anti-rattle spring. Re assemble in reverse order. Will have to press on the anti-rattle spring a bit to install the pins - don't forget the little clips. Apply the rear brake a few times BEFORE riding to press the pads back into place ( remember you pressed the pistons back).

John
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post #6 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 11:34 am Thread Starter
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Ok brake pads out and

Ok got the brake pads out and it still seems to be dragging somewhere. Any ideas? Unfortunately the Cincinnati dealer closed down and closest is 100 miles away.

Marc Pillis- MSF Rider Coach
Union, Kentucky
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post #7 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 11:38 am
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Ok - Try this.

What type of tire are you running? Is it rubbing on the swing arm? May have a bubble in the side wall.

With the pads out its either tire or bearings.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 114 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #8 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 2:00 pm
 
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As you probably know the 05 has intergraded & power brakes so you are using the rear everytime you use the front brakes, this I have found, will wear out the rear pads a lot sooner. I had a 99 LT and rear brake wear was what I considered normal. I now have an 05 LT and the rear pads are very thin at around 10k miles so you need to check them because if they contact the rotor it will need to be replaced. With all that said, I have heard noises from the rear brake like you describe and as long as there is sufficient pad life I do not pay any attention. I have over 58k on this bike and this issue has never caused me any problems. RIDE SAFE.
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post #9 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 3:43 pm Thread Starter
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Calipers

I have another question on the rear brake. I pulled the bots that hold the caliper on and noticed that one is longer than the other. When I back out the longer one the noise stops. I had new tires put on prior to the trip. Did they have to remove the rear brake caliper in order to remove the rear wheel? Is one bolt supposed to be longer than the other and if so which one? Now I wonder if he got the bolts mixed up from the front and rear caliper. Is one bolt supposed to be longer than the other?
Appreciate all the help guys. Thanks

Marc Pillis- MSF Rider Coach
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post #10 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 7:25 pm
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Only have to remove the rear mud flap to gain access to the lug nuts holding the rim onto the hub, just like a car.
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post #11 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 7:56 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpillis
I have another question on the rear brake. I pulled the bots that hold the caliper on and noticed that one is longer than the other. When I back out the longer one the noise stops. I had new tires put on prior to the trip. Did they have to remove the rear brake caliper in order to remove the rear wheel? Is one bolt supposed to be longer than the other and if so which one? Now I wonder if he got the bolts mixed up from the front and rear caliper. Is one bolt supposed to be longer than the other?
Appreciate all the help guys. Thanks
The maintenance manual does not call the bolts different, but the part list at MAX BMW lists two different bolts. I looked at mine and see no difference except the rear most bolt holds the standoff bracket. They appear the same. Try swapping them to see if the rubbing goes away. They do not have to remove the caliper to pull the rear wheel.

If you can't find a better position for the long bolt add a washer or two from your local hardware store. Be sure to torque the bolts to 40Nm or 30 FtLbs. Then report to your dealer at first opportunity to get it resolved.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 114 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #12 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 8:15 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpillis
I have another question on the rear brake. I pulled the bots that hold the caliper on and noticed that one is longer than the other. When I back out the longer one the noise stops. I had new tires put on prior to the trip. Did they have to remove the rear brake caliper in order to remove the rear wheel? Is one bolt supposed to be longer than the other and if so which one? Now I wonder if he got the bolts mixed up from the front and rear caliper. Is one bolt supposed to be longer than the other?
Appreciate all the help guys. Thanks
The bolts in the rear caliper are different, one has a larger diameter shoulder and flanged head, and if forced into the wrong hole can damage the caliper.

I forgot which, and no bike to run out to the garage to look at. I think the one with the flanged head goes on top.

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post #13 of 13 Old Jun 19th, 2006, 8:33 pm
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Originally Posted by dshealey
I forgot which, and no bike to run out to the garage to look at. I think the one with the flanged head goes on top.
David,

You are right the flange head is the rear or upper most bolt and the lower or forward most has a standard head with a rather thick washer under it. Good memory.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 114 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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