Canisterectomy how to ? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 7 Old Jun 14th, 2014, 11:22 pm Thread Starter
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Canisterectomy how to ?

Well..... my first long ride today (350 miles) on my new to me, "flying brick" was a good one up until about mile # 280 or so. After hitting some twisties west of Dallas, I got into a traffic jam on I-30 going home. So before I could get to an exit, the temp gauge started climbing; then loss of power in 1st & 2nd gear. Made it to a gas station to let her cool down ( & me too) spoke some nice words over her, prayed, seriously ! , and after checking it over, slowly proceeded another route home. There were no fluid leaks, or warning lights, so I thought maybe clutch slipping or fuel pump or clogged gas line or low battery ???? Once back up to speed it ran like it did all day long before this issue. I have perused the forum re: vapor lock but it had been about 50 miles or so since a fillup, and I am doing my best NOT to top it off too full. I am using only premium fuel - maybe it was some bad gas. Did I see a post about only plugging some tubes and not having to totally remove the canister ? Or any other ideas what caused this ? Thanks in advance...
FYI : I rode a Valkyrie for years before this bike - no FI, no computers, no German engineering, but I knew how to work on it, This one is gonna take some learnin' as my dad would have said.
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post #2 of 7 Old Jun 15th, 2014, 3:21 am
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Re: Canisterectomy how to ?

found this
LT Canisterectomy Directions

1. Pull the top case (trunk) and the panel underneath it.
2. Disconnect the hose coming from the gas tank to the canister (facing front, coming from the tank down the right side of the bike to the right side of the canister). Route this hose to vent in an open space low on the bike.
3. Remove the hose from the canister to the intake (facing front, going from the left side of the canister down to the intake). Take a threaded machine screw and insert it into the end of the hose. You can add a hose clamp for extra assurance, but a large enough screw won’t come out.
4. Cut and remove the strap holding the canister in place.
5. Pull canister out with the remaining intake hose routed to the rear of the bike still attached. You may have to remove the rear mud flap to unhook it from its routing clips.
6. Reinstall rear panel and top case.

Regards Linton
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and no koalas are not Bears

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post #3 of 7 Old Jun 15th, 2014, 8:10 am
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Re: Canisterectomy how to ?

The fuel tank is vented through the canister. If the bike has been on it's side, there is the possibility that the canister could have been filled with gasoline. This can plug up the canister. Without a vent, a vacuum in the tank will quickly develop. Fuel delivery to the throttle bodies becomes more difficult under this environment and will slow, and eventually stop the bike. When you opened the fuel cap to fuel, did you hear air rushing past the cap? If so, the vent is not working and the canister is suspect number1.

If you're on the road when this happens, run the bike with the cap loose to get you home.


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post #4 of 7 Old Jun 15th, 2014, 8:20 am
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Re: Canisterectomy how to ?

I plugged the lines to the canister and left it in place. It's not being used but it's still there............

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post #5 of 7 Old Jun 15th, 2014, 10:22 am
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Re: Canisterectomy how to ?

You can do everything by just pulling the pillion seat as all the hoses are there. No need to actually remove the canister unless you need room for an on board compressor.

2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
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Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #6 of 7 Old Jun 15th, 2014, 11:53 am
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Re: Canisterectomy how to ?

Originally Posted by rattler50 View Post
I plugged the lines to the canister and left it in place. It's not being used but it's still there............
You can't just plug all the lines.
Only the line on the left of the bike gets plugged.
The line running along the right vents the fuel tank.
The canisterectomy directions have you bypass the canister and just connect the rear vent line to the line from the tank.
You can probably just unplug that line and be good.

Doug B.
2000 LT purchased July 2013
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post #7 of 7 Old Sep 7th, 2014, 7:12 pm Thread Starter
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She runs 100% better !

Okay, had the stalling and hesitation prob back in June after buying this "beauty" -- did the canisterectomy, checked filters, & used premium fuel all summer. Yesterday, she ran like crap again (95 F.) here in DFW. Perused this awesome forum again, AND disconnected the air temp sensor ! There is not a brown wire to cut; build date for my '99 is 11/98. Just got back from a hot afternoon ride, and she runs like the BMW engineers designed her too ! Now I am a "happy camper" Yes, had some initial regrets after purchase in May, but now she's kinda like a cross "tween my Valky and the FJR 1300 ! Thanks so much to this forum and all u guys experience. Ride safe & God Bless.

99 K1200LT Icon
00 Valky gone
08 FJR1300
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82 Gold Wing
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