clutch test? shocks - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 3 Old Jun 16th, 2006, 5:01 pm Thread Starter
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clutch test? shocks

I've owned an 03 LT for over a year now, love the bike but this clutch talk has been looming in my mind since I joined the site. This is my fist BMW, and first hydraulic clutch. I am most accustomed to cable clutches, the way they should feel and act. The bike has just over 40,000. Last year during an fairly aggressive pass with wife on back I noticed a definite slip. Figured I was to be added to the dreaded contamination list. Being hesitant to tear down or play warranty roulette, I decided to see what happened. I haven't been able to replicate a slip of that degree, however since I've owned the bike the clutch action seems a bit sluggish compared to cable actuated. Does it make sense that quick shifts with the hydraulic action could initiate some slip under hard acceleration under the right condition, (not enough time to fully engage)? I've tried speed shifting a few times and everything seems real crisp with no slip. Is there a way to check the health of the clutch without teardown,(brace against solid object, let out clutch and see if stalls or slips? I certainly do not want to contribute to further wear however with long trips planned I have visions of being stranded, or worse giving the dealer the go ahead for a clutch job and having them find nothing wrong!

Item #2- Shocks are definitely sacking out to the point where the centerstand grinding is going to start and cause trouble. I've read the Wilbur's/Ohlins debate and both seem to be fine choices, probably leaning towards Ohlins. What is the typical turnaround time for Ohlins after ordering? Also to lessen the blow of cost, has anyone brought the front and back in 2 stages? I would assume that the rear will make the biggest improvement, however I presume the nice new rear will exploit the wear on the front.
Thanks for any input

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post #2 of 3 Old Jun 16th, 2006, 5:40 pm
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Originally Posted by alanforn
---------------Also to lessen the blow of cost, has anyone brought the front and back in 2 stages? I would assume that the rear will make the biggest improvement, however I presume the nice new rear will exploit the wear on the front.
Thanks for any input

It depends on which quality you want improved. Twisty road steering and bump response to the front wheel, or heavy loaded touring. The first is improved more by the front shock, the later by the rear.

In my experience, the most noticeable change is made by the front shock. Less harsh handling and "thunking" on bumps when the wheel rebounds back down after being forced up. Even on highway riding the front Ohlins seems to smooth out the bumps moreso than the rear, but the rear has more affect on heavier loaded bottoming.

So, if I was going to stage the buys, I would probably replace the front first.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #3 of 3 Old Jun 16th, 2006, 5:51 pm
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A further question that may point in the right direction for the clutch;
Is it possible to drill the MOD whole without great expense?

If so - go for that and see if you get any drips


"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect" Mark Twain

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