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post #1 of 4 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 7:02 pm Thread Starter
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slave cylinder

Does anyone know of the step by step procedure to change out the slave cylinder, have gone ahead and ordered the parts and in the process of making the special 33 mm long socket, thanks in advance
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post #2 of 4 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 7:44 pm
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First familiarize yourself with the shop manual , You should not attempt the job without it. Then ask questions .For someone to spoon feed you the A-Z is too much.

The job is not difficult, there are special tools.
I will be happy to help after you do your home work.
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Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
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post #3 of 4 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 7:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheldan2
Does anyone know of the step by step procedure to change out the slave cylinder, have gone ahead and ordered the parts and in the process of making the special 33 mm long socket, thanks in advance
The service manual is invaluable for this. Far too many steps and tricks to attempt it without one, and the pictures in the manual help a lot.

About 4 times now we have had service parties to do these, and each time it was thought that maybe pictures would be taken to write up parts of the procedure. However, the service manual already has done that, so the return for the work required to do it again just is not worth it.

We have learned a couple of tricks that can be added, such as not removing the exhaust system to get the swing arm out (as the manual says do), but that is a little hard to describe, the hardest part is getting the left side of the swing arm out past the bolt that is in the bottom of the battery bracketry.

Also, the manual does not say to "phase" the driveshaft, but that should always be done. We have developed the trick of how to mark the splines to make that fairly easy.

If you decide to take on this project yourself, get a copy of the service manual, study the procedures, and ask questions after you see all the detail already available to you in it.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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No bike now, but maybe in the future.

Last edited by dshealey; Jun 14th, 2006 at 7:59 pm.
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post #4 of 4 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 10:19 pm
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Hi Mike, I'm with David and Pete on this one. The manual is essential. David and I have both replaced our slaves and helped others do the same. We still use the manual each time for reminders and torgue specs. It seems a lot to pay for a CD (or printed copy) but you won't regret it. You will use over and over again. We have toyed with the idea of detailed photo documentation and/or a video of the process but that's a work in progress. For now you can read the many posts on slave replacement. There are hints there the manual doesn't mention like phasing the drive shaft, where to drill the drain hole, or what to do when you discover some moron with an impact wrench over tightened your swing arm pivots or worse, used loctite.
When you get your manual go over the section on slave cylinder replacement. You need to know how to remove the rear wheel, disconnect the rear shock, remove the rear drive and swing arm. Once all that's out of the way the slave is right there waiting for you. The actual replacement is easy and bleeding the hydraulic system is no different than bleeding your brakes. Feel free to ask questions if the manual or the posts you find on the subject confusing. You might try posting on the regional sub forum for your area. You may well have an experienced wrench near you who would love to help. Your post there may well trigger a service party in your area. You could always take a short ride (for an LT) to So. California. We love working on our bikes out here. Be happy to tear into yours. Oh, and that special socket is 30mm,not 33mm. I assume that was just a typo. David posted details including photos that will help if you haven't already seen it.

Michael

Last edited by mjordans2000; Jun 14th, 2006 at 10:30 pm.
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