Transmission Hesitation - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 12 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 9:42 am Thread Starter
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Transmission Hesitation

Over the last couple of days I have noticed a hesitation. I will be in 3rd-5th gear and when I roll the throttle the engine will increase in RPM and after about 1k-2k rpm increase I finally fell the acceleration. Could this be a problem with the transmission?

I'm currently under 10K on milage.

2005 "Ocean Blue"
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post #2 of 12 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 10:03 am
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Nope, not transmission - but maybe clutch. I'd get it to your dealer ASAP - hope it's still under warantee.

Tate

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post #3 of 12 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 11:08 am
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Slipping clutch

Sounds like you may have a bad slave cylinder which is pumpimg brake fluid onto your clutch. I have seen several posts on 05's with this problem. Get it to your dealer ASAP. It will only get worse.

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post #4 of 12 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 11:26 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
Sounds like you may have a bad slave cylinder which is pumpimg brake fluid onto your clutch. I have seen several posts on 05's with this problem. Get it to your dealer ASAP. It will only get worse.
My slave cylinder went out at 1200 miles and took the clutch with it. Another reason to do the pre-emptive drill-the-hole procedure thing.

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post #5 of 12 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 1:35 pm
 
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Time for a new clutch. The fiber disc is contaminated with one of three fluids or god forbid all three. Rear main seal oring = motor oil, trans fluid inpt shaft seal, Clutch slave fluid.

Petem aka murrat
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post #6 of 12 Old Jun 14th, 2006, 3:25 pm Thread Starter
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Talked with the dealer and the earliest appt is a week from now. I do believe that it's going to be the oil seal. Looked at the sight glass on the clutch reservoir and its still at the same level from last service. I recall that I have had to add 6 ounces of oil over that last 2 weeks of riding to keep the level in the middle of the sight glass. I don't have any drops of fluid where I park the bike so I can't do the sample test.

The only good thing is the dealer did say that he should only need the bike for 2 days.

Thanks to all for the assist.

2005 "Ocean Blue"
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post #7 of 12 Old Jun 22nd, 2006, 7:59 pm Thread Starter
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Angry Burned Out Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbogunner
Talked with the dealer and the earliest appt is a week from now. I do believe that it's going to be the oil seal. Looked at the sight glass on the clutch reservoir and its still at the same level from last service. I recall that I have had to add 6 ounces of oil over that last 2 weeks of riding to keep the level in the middle of the sight glass. I don't have any drops of fluid where I park the bike so I can't do the sample test.

The only good thing is the dealer did say that he should only need the bike for 2 days.

Thanks to all for the assist.
New Update.
The latest from the dealer is that I have a leaking transmission output shaft seal and a cracked crankcase breather. The clutch slippage is from burn-out of the clutch. Looked at the clutch plate and friction disk and the disk is worn to the rivets. There is a hint of heat checking on the clutch plate. It also has a large amount of thick black residue that feels like grease and pad dust around the splined socket.

My big question is it normal for a clutch to burn out with less than 10K? They tell me that it won't be warranted and it's going to cost me $900 to get the bike out of the shop. I'm by no means an real aggressive rider. I don't ride the clutch either. Any suggestions?

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post #8 of 12 Old Jun 22nd, 2006, 8:23 pm
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Since the clutch failure was due to the oil seal failure, BMW should cover it.

Jim Taylor
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post #9 of 12 Old Jun 22nd, 2006, 10:29 pm Thread Starter
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The dealer is saying no oil contamination was found on the friction plate and that the clutch was just worn out.

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post #10 of 12 Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 3:03 am
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I got the exact same story on my '02 at 36K miles (not worn to the rivets, but no sign of oil leakage). Cost me just over $1,400 and more than a week.

The dry clutch used by BMW is underrated for this heavy of a bike. If you're gentle, it can last more than 100K miles. If you're at all aggressive, it can go very quickly. Now I make sure the clutch is fully hooked up when starting before applying any heavy throttle.

Good thing the new GT (and by extension the new LT) has a wet multi-plate clutch.

Ken
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post #11 of 12 Old Jun 26th, 2006, 10:07 am
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Just a suggestion, but I would compromise with the dealer. You know for sure that a seal was leaking on the trans. You know for sure the clutch plate is worn. You know for sure the bike is under warranty. You don't know why the clutch plate is worn out, but who cares at this point. Tell the dealer you will buy the clutch plate and they should by all rights cover the the labor and parts for the seal. I would think that is a fair deal to all, because the oil leak would have to be fixed under the warranty coverage. If in fact you burned the clutch out (and I'm not saying you did) it is a simple matter to replace it while they are repairing the oil seal leak.
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post #12 of 12 Old Jun 26th, 2006, 11:27 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric
Just a suggestion, but I would compromise with the dealer. You know for sure that a seal was leaking on the trans. You know for sure the clutch plate is worn. You know for sure the bike is under warranty. You don't know why the clutch plate is worn out, but who cares at this point. Tell the dealer you will buy the clutch plate and they should by all rights cover the the labor and parts for the seal. I would think that is a fair deal to all, because the oil leak would have to be fixed under the warranty coverage. If in fact you burned the clutch out (and I'm not saying you did) it is a simple matter to replace it while they are repairing the oil seal leak.
I agree. When they have it down for the seal replacement under warranty, you should only have to pay for the clutch plate and since there is some heat checking the pressure plate. That certainly is nowhere near $900. There is no reason for you to pay for anything beyond the burned clutch parts, nor most of the labor, since they have to do most of that anyway. Pulling the tranny does not require removal of the clutch, but once the tranny is out the additional clutch work should only be a couple hours max.

Kinda hard to argue with them on the clutch since it is worn down. That is unusual, so may want to re-think how you are using it. When one gets contaminated with oil or brake fluid it slips under power, but that does not cause it to wear down, since the contaminants lubricate it.

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